Font end vibration troubleshooting...getting nowhere
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Font end vibration troubleshooting...getting nowhere
Hey guys,
I've been searching the forums for a couple weeks here trying to track down the source of and correct a front end vibration issue I'm having. The information on here has been immensely helpful, but I'm still having the same problem. Here's the details;
Patient:
1992 Cherokee Larado, bone stock. Parttime 4wheel, Dana 30 front (NO intermediate shaft), Chrysler rear, 231 transfer case, 4.0 straight 6, AW4 Auto. Cooper Discoverer ATR 235/75/R15 tires.
Symptoms:
Vibration begins at around 55 and continues to pick up volume and frequency moving to higher speeds. I can feel it in the floor, not so much in the wheel. At 55 it "feels" like it's coming from the passenger side. Once at 65 MPH it's harder to isolate. At 70 MPH the vibration has moved to the whole front, and I have to back off.
Treatment thus far (keeping in mind a lot of these parts were in need of replacement when I got the jeep, prior to the vibe issue) for the record I have a torque wrench...everything has been double checked to be at spec:
*"----" denotes a break and testing (driving) in between projects.
Knuckles
Wheel bearing hubs
Rotors
Calipers
-----(Discovered vibration)
Front U-Joints
Tire rotation
------- (vibrations volume increases at a lower speed otherwise consistant)
Lower ball joints
----- (handling improvement...vibration persists)
Shocks
Drag link
Tierod (@Pitman)
Tierod (@ Drag link)
Tierod (@ Driver's Knuckle)
Tierod Sleeve (long one)
Steering Damper
----- (Major handling improvement. 0 vibration in wheel, feels more sure footed at highway speed, and less drift. All other vibration symptoms remain consistent).
Possible resolutions I'm planing in order:
-Replace track bar bushing (picked it up today)
-Tires balance
-alignment (need it anyway)
-check shafts for balance
-Suspect passenger side wheel bearing? It's new...but wouldn't be the first faulty "new" bearing I've seen.
Aditional info:
-First and for most, this truck was a mess when I got it (it was free...go figure). I've been rebuilding it for winter the last several months. A few other things I've noticed are:
-Front springs are original, feel really bouncy even after the shot replacement, and are slated for replacement really at any time (cheap).
-Swaybar links have some wear, but not all together shot in my opinion. Planing to replace them soon regardless.
-As I just replaced most of the steering components today i have not taken it into a shot for a proper alignment. I did check my toe in (1/8 in all day long), though my steering wheel alignment was off during my last road test. I'd suspect some change in the vibration (better or worse) if it were an alignment issue having replaced all the parts...but there's been none. I could be wrong though.
This is my first jeep, and first post (sorry about the book). Any advice would be helpful. I fully accept the fact that I'm not an expert. At this point given the info on what I've done, and what's happening if you see something I've missed, or plan to do that is way off base I'd appreciate the heads up. I just want to make sure I've got this thing right, can't have "Death Wobble" on the machine I'll be running my kid around with this winter
Many thanks in advance.
I've been searching the forums for a couple weeks here trying to track down the source of and correct a front end vibration issue I'm having. The information on here has been immensely helpful, but I'm still having the same problem. Here's the details;
Patient:
1992 Cherokee Larado, bone stock. Parttime 4wheel, Dana 30 front (NO intermediate shaft), Chrysler rear, 231 transfer case, 4.0 straight 6, AW4 Auto. Cooper Discoverer ATR 235/75/R15 tires.
Symptoms:
Vibration begins at around 55 and continues to pick up volume and frequency moving to higher speeds. I can feel it in the floor, not so much in the wheel. At 55 it "feels" like it's coming from the passenger side. Once at 65 MPH it's harder to isolate. At 70 MPH the vibration has moved to the whole front, and I have to back off.
Treatment thus far (keeping in mind a lot of these parts were in need of replacement when I got the jeep, prior to the vibe issue) for the record I have a torque wrench...everything has been double checked to be at spec:
*"----" denotes a break and testing (driving) in between projects.
Knuckles
Wheel bearing hubs
Rotors
Calipers
-----(Discovered vibration)
Front U-Joints
Tire rotation
------- (vibrations volume increases at a lower speed otherwise consistant)
Lower ball joints
----- (handling improvement...vibration persists)
Shocks
Drag link
Tierod (@Pitman)
Tierod (@ Drag link)
Tierod (@ Driver's Knuckle)
Tierod Sleeve (long one)
Steering Damper
----- (Major handling improvement. 0 vibration in wheel, feels more sure footed at highway speed, and less drift. All other vibration symptoms remain consistent).
Possible resolutions I'm planing in order:
-Replace track bar bushing (picked it up today)
-Tires balance
-alignment (need it anyway)
-check shafts for balance
-Suspect passenger side wheel bearing? It's new...but wouldn't be the first faulty "new" bearing I've seen.
Aditional info:
-First and for most, this truck was a mess when I got it (it was free...go figure). I've been rebuilding it for winter the last several months. A few other things I've noticed are:
-Front springs are original, feel really bouncy even after the shot replacement, and are slated for replacement really at any time (cheap).
-Swaybar links have some wear, but not all together shot in my opinion. Planing to replace them soon regardless.
-As I just replaced most of the steering components today i have not taken it into a shot for a proper alignment. I did check my toe in (1/8 in all day long), though my steering wheel alignment was off during my last road test. I'd suspect some change in the vibration (better or worse) if it were an alignment issue having replaced all the parts...but there's been none. I could be wrong though.
This is my first jeep, and first post (sorry about the book). Any advice would be helpful. I fully accept the fact that I'm not an expert. At this point given the info on what I've done, and what's happening if you see something I've missed, or plan to do that is way off base I'd appreciate the heads up. I just want to make sure I've got this thing right, can't have "Death Wobble" on the machine I'll be running my kid around with this winter
Many thanks in advance.
#2
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Year: 2001
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Balancing the tires is the first thing I would try. I just replaced the brakes on my '01 Cherokee. I brought the drums to the local shop to have them resurfaced. After I brought them home, I noticed one of the weights from the drum laying in the back of my pick-up. I had to weld it back on to avoid the vibration.
#3
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Year: 1995
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Make sure wheels are balanced correctly (no cross wheighting and such) Have had problems like this run threw my shop before and 70% of the time it is balance and or bent wheel/tire belt issue. But considering you said you rotated the tires makes me think otherwise but go that route first...
Lata
Matt
Lata
Matt
#4
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Year: 1999
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I'm running about 6 inches of lift and when I got on real long road trips...excess of 2 hours...I remove the front driveshaft to eliminate the vibration I get at highway speeds. Any time you lift it your gonna get vibrations. Anyway, my point is, try removing the driveshaft and cruising around. If the vibration is gone, its in your driveshaft balancing or u-joints...if its still there, then you eliminate one area that could be a problem. Its a free way to tell if you need to spend money in that area. Hope this helps a bit.
#5
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Year: 1992
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Thanks for the advice guys. Going to run it to my friends shop later this week for the tire balance. As to pulling the shafts, I've seen guys do this on builds that are their DD while waiting for parts. But they usually leave the stub shafts in. Does it matter if you take the whole thing out? My guess is that the wheel rides on the hub assembly/knuckle, so it should be fine (2WD XJ don't have any shafts up front at all do they?)...just kind of like wow...I hadn't considered that for testing at all.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#6
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Year: 1992
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One other question regarding shafts (not that I'm disregarding the wheel balancing). My D30 is the type that does NOT have the intermediate shaft or vacuum. So what I'm wondering is, if the "No shafts" test eliminates the vibration, what are my options for J/Y shafts? Would a 99 or 2000's shafts work? I was just out there Thursday pulling parts and they had a few. My understanding is that from 92-2001 they used 27 spline on the D30...am I right on that? It's going to be later this week before I can get it in for the tire balancing. I'm thinking I could try the shaftless test tomorrow just to narrow things down in the mean time and at least know for sure if that is or is not the issue. There was significant rust scale on the passenger side shaft on the yoke side. I sanded it down when I first had it out (60,80,100, 220, 400, 600, 1500 wet). I'm thinking now that may have been a mistake (done some further reading about shaft balancing).
Any suggestions on how to keep debris out of the axle when the shafts are out?
Again guys thanks for all the help.
Any suggestions on how to keep debris out of the axle when the shafts are out?
Again guys thanks for all the help.
#7
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Answered my own question about driving with out the stub shafts...well NAXJA did anyway.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923136
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923136
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#9
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I'm running about 6 inches of lift and when I got on real long road trips...excess of 2 hours...I remove the front driveshaft to eliminate the vibration I get at highway speeds. Any time you lift it your gonna get vibrations. Anyway, my point is, try removing the driveshaft and cruising around. If the vibration is gone, its in your driveshaft balancing or u-joints...if its still there, then you eliminate one area that could be a problem. Its a free way to tell if you need to spend money in that area. Hope this helps a bit.
#10
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Answered my own question about driving with out the stub shafts...well NAXJA did anyway.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923136
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923136
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/inc...eadthis-64125/
#12
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remove front drive shaft mine had the same vib your describing until i removed it i found it had bad u joints and there is a lot of play were the two pieces slide together
#13
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When u go to ur friends shop. Have him shake the front end probably just a tiy rod end possibly on the track bar. Or the bracket for the track bar. Also could be a hub assembly. That would be the most expensive at $120 for parts. I'm sure if ur friend has a shot it won't be a big deal.
#14
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Also, when you pull the front shaft, check for any clean spots, dime size or so, where a welded weight might have gotten knocked off. Most driveshafts are balanced with some welded pieces of metal to the actual shaft. You might have knocked one off or one might have fallen off on its own.