It will be here Tuesday my new RE 3.5" super ride. IL be putting it on my stock 2000. I need lots of pointers! I just read the instructions online and they are very vague!!! i.e. remove shock, remove ect. so let me have it. everything you guys know...

 

I'd start on the rear. It's easier and you can drive it with just the rear lift if you decide that you won't get it all done in one day. You won't get it done in one day especially if you are working without air tools. Are you doing full leafs? I broke the fwd mounting bolt for the leaf. I scratched my head for 15 minutes, went inside to read some threads, decided I didn't like any of the solutions and came up with my own fix. I had to use a hole saw on the floor of the back seat area and a cutting wheel to get the old leaf off. Then I broke more stuff doing the front. Get a rear brake line from a 95 wrangler if the kit doesn't include one. Take advantage of the loaner tools at your FLAPS for the pullers.

It's a PITA but you'll get through it though. Don't let me scare you into taking it to a shop and spending an extra $1000. But you might need us when you start breaking stuff.



Don't skimp on safety either. Use the big jack stands. and block your wheels.

 

pb blaster and a bfh is your friend.. your rear top shock bolts will probably break.. to me the front was easier then the back but thats just my xj.. i went with a 4.5" RC lift and its pretty freakin stiff.. kinda wish i went LA but maybe ill upgrade later.. watch out for old rusty partys, i busted a few knuckles.. i had to run down to the tool store a million and 1/2 times per day.. try to get ALL of the tools you need first! it would be a HUGE help on your part.. if you ever get stuck we are here to help.. post up or msg me ill help with what i can ( altho im sure others are more qualified ) lol

 

3.5" can easily be done in less than a day. Mine took me about 6 hours - by myself, with an air socket, spring compressor (rent it from Autozone/Advance Auto), and other regular hand tools. A breaker bar comes in handy too. Make sure to get the rear brake line off a '96 Dakota and the front hoses off a '95 YJ. They'll be much better than the stock ones for your lift. The biggest piece of advice I can give you is to SOAK everything with PB 2 days before and the day before you do the install. this means:
u-bolts and nuts
rear leaf bolts
front leaf bolts
LCA bolts
all shock bolts, ESPECIALLY the rear top ones. These tend to break so be prepared to drill 'em out if they do.
coil spring lock tab bolts
sway bar top bolts


Start at the rear and work forward. Jack up the rear end and have a couple of jack stands underneath on the frame. You want a hydraulic jack under the axle so you can lower it to get the new leafs in. Do the rear shocks first. Start with the upper bolts. If they do break, drill 'em out and put in new ones. After both rear shocks are done, swap the rear brake line for one off a '96 Dakota (it's longer than the '95 YJ rear line). Next. loosen up your u-bolts but don't pull 'em off yet. Rear leaf bolts are next, then the fronts. here's where the jack stands come in handy. The shocks will keep the axle from falling, but it'll still hang. Now remove the u-bolts. If it's an AAL kit, add your new leaf to you packs. Put in the new/added-to leafs. Put in your rear and front leaf bolts (if the kit doesn't have new bushings for these, make sure to get 'em before you start). Torque everything down and the rear is done.
Now for the front. Start the same way - jack it up and have a couple jack stands underneath on the frame with a hydraulic jack under the axle. Again start with the shocks. The fronts are easier so you shouldn't have any issues here. Then do the spring lock tabs. Next is the sway bar. This makes getting the springs out MUCH easier. Just do the fittings at the top of the connecting rods so you can take the bar itself off of them. Next, remove the LCA bolts (again, if the kit doesn't have new bushings for these, get them beforehand). You should be able to lower the axle at this point. Pull out the springs using the compressor, and put the new ones in. Tighten the lock tabs back down. Use the jack to lift the axle back into place and re-attach the LCA's. If you happen to have quick disco's, now's the time to do it. If you don't, re-attach the sway bar. Also, do your brake front lines from the '95 YJ now. Torque everything down. Bleed your brake lines (you'll need to add fluid since the lines are longer). Go get a front end alignment before you go anywhere else. And that's it.
Go about a week driving it then re-torque everything. You may have drive line vibrations after installing the lift. If so, look at doing a t-case drop or rear axle shims. With it being a 2000, I'd recommend the t-case drop since you most likely have a low pinion D30 up front. Hope this helps and can't wait to see pics!

 

This might help you out a bit, minus the blocks and add a leaf part. I know what you mean though the re instructions suck. Just take your time and make sure you dont forget anything and tighten everything up nice and snug. Ohh and lots of pb blaster a few days prior to the install.
http://jeepin.com/features/relift

 

Thanks for all the response! here is some more in site. I have all hand tools NO air (wish I did) I have full leaf packs, and T-case drop coming .
I have a few days off work so Im pulling her into the garage today to get everything presoaked with PB and started to dissemble.

so tools I need to rent??
-spring compressor
-puller? (do i need one?)


anything else?

 

Full 1/2" drive socket - metric and standard - set with a breaker bar
ball-peen hammer or rubber mallet is useful for getting shock bushings in
spring compressor
You shouldn't need a puller if you disconnect the sway bar
hydraulic jack
jack stands
Pb blaster
drill and bits (in case the top rear shock bolts break)
large flat head screwdriver (makes for a good, small pry bar/punch if you need to hit a loosened bolt out or slightly move a part)
flare wrenches for the brake lines (a crescent will work, but it's better to use flares)

 

Just a spring compressor, if you can't find one I've sen people use rachet straps.

 

Since your kit comes with LCAs the front springs should be easy. Take the sway bar nut off the top of the link and bang the bushing off the link with your hand or a mallet (both sides). Use a floor jack to lift the side you want to take off (I think passenger first is possibly easier), and put the compressors on. Tighten them a couple of turns, then lower the jack, and they should almost fall right off. Be very careful though, it's very hard to put them 180 degrees apart and still have room for the wrench.

I also broke 3 of the 4 upper shock bolts, until my brother came back (professional mechanic. so mad at him for bailing on me during the lift, but that's another story) and showed me how to pulse back and forth, many many times to compress the rust and not shear the bolt. He had a small air impact gun, but you could do it with an electric one or by hand, it's just murder on your shoulder muscles. Beats dremmeling from that position, though.

Another huge plus are large jack stands, which you'll pretty much need once you get this lift on and find out that the normal ones, fully extended, don't quite touch the bottom of the jeep.

Also, in my case, I pinched pennies on the lift but splurged on the SYE. With some experience, a small cutting wheel to remove this one peaky flange, and an pair of lock ring pliers it was easy enough, and with the '00, I think you can do a hack-n-tap (also a RE product).

Man, I wish I could have afforded that kit, but I paid too much for my '01 (it did have less than 90k). Do yourself a huge favor and get an air compressor, they're good for way more than just car tools.

 

x2. I didnt break a single bolt thanks to pb blaster and the proper air tools. You will thank yourself for it.

 

Start soaking the rear upper shock bolts with pb blaster now...not after you read this, right now. And continue to do so. Their more than likely gonna break, and its no big deal if you have some mechanical skills. There are some threads on here on what to do when they do, but if you start soaking them, they may just come right out. Do not use air on them if your trying to save them-that will def break them.

Good Luck, it really isnt that bad. Should take you better part of day by yourself.

 

well i started to soak so hopefully it works!!

here is my build if you want to see pics:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/no...-3-5-re-52628/

 

The small problem is that, even with all its penetrating goodness, the PB isn't going to do much for the rust-encrusted threads that are above the weld nut. And for the air tool, it is possible to be gentle if you know your tools and are careful. Lower the pressure, and use a 3/8" impact gun, not a giant 1/2" tire change gun. That said, do what you're comfortable with.

Bellkrank:
Really nice looking jeep. While you have it jacked up, you could: check you brake lines; check your rear brakes if you haven't recently; remove the U-bolts, clean and paint the plates. My RE instructions said something about removing the rear brake hardline, which made little since, but be careful taking U-bolts on and off as one has to be threaded through the hard line.

 

What plates are you talking about?

 

The ones on top of the leaf springs that the u-bolts go through. Sorry, I guess there's a technical term, but I'm not sure. Your kit will probably have new u-bolts, washers, and nuts, but not these pates, and they tend to be covered with flaky rust that comes off easy enough with a wire brush or wheel. If you have a sway bar in the rear, the mount for that will be on the inside (iirc) u-bolt, above this plate, but below the washer and nuts. You can remove the whole sway bar if you choose. I won't tell you to do it or not to do it. It will give you flex but increase body roll, so if you feel it would be un-safe for your on-road driving needs, don't do it, just undo both sides and shove it up out of the way.