Finally gonna regear... 4.11 or 4.56- your advice?
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Model: Cherokee
Finally gonna regear... 4.11 or 4.56- your advice?
Really tired of the loss of power so I'm gonna regear. I've seen all the charts but find them kinda confusing. I need your advice folks...
Here is some info on the rig
88 Jeep cherokee
33 in Tires
AW4 Tranny
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 35 rear
Dana 30 front (reverse)
I'm not gonna go to 35s ever so I really wanto to get it as close to stock configuration as possible. So..
Should I go 4.11 or 4.56?
Thanks!
Here is some info on the rig
88 Jeep cherokee
33 in Tires
AW4 Tranny
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 35 rear
Dana 30 front (reverse)
I'm not gonna go to 35s ever so I really wanto to get it as close to stock configuration as possible. So..
Should I go 4.11 or 4.56?
Thanks!
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
4.56 will make it real close to stock not taking into consideration the extra drag from the bigger tires and lift. Wouldn't waste the money regearing the 35.
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Weird. I've heard from some folks that regearing a 35 is quite alright. Just to give you a background, I'm not gonna be doing any crawling. Just day to day driving and the occasional hunting trip with some moderate 4 wheeling. Is the dana 35 that weak?
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Year: 97
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Engine: 4.0L
Some people don't have issues with them but there are very few of those people. If you don't plan to wheel it, only street driving and the occasional trip down the trail to the hunting camp you might be OK but if it were me I'd try and find a 8.25 out of a 96 and newer XJ.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
and i agree with grabbing a chrycorp 8.25 from a 97+ cherokee (the reason i say 97+ instead of 96+ is because some 96's came with 27 spline and some came with the 29 spline. you want the 29 spline. and getting a 97+ guarantees that you will get one with 29 splines.)
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Year: 87
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Engine: 4.0 I6
You will be fine regearing the dana 35 but. You will find a lot of us haters out there but we crawl and wheel so we will not waste the money on regearing a dana 35.
Regearing a 35 is like polishing a turd. lol
But As long as you don't do any serious offroading I think you would fine.
Also the gearing for your tires would be best at 4.56
If you are lucky you can go to a JY and find a 4cy they came stock with 4.10 and that would be better to since it would be a lot cheaper.
Regearing a 35 is like polishing a turd. lol
But As long as you don't do any serious offroading I think you would fine.
Also the gearing for your tires would be best at 4.56
If you are lucky you can go to a JY and find a 4cy they came stock with 4.10 and that would be better to since it would be a lot cheaper.
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
Dont even think about 4.10 gears. I went to 4.56 and almost wish i went even lower. And dont waste money on a D35, i've heard of them breaking on the road. Throw it in the trash and nab a 8.25.
The 8.25 is even easier to set up the gears on too since it uses threaded side adjusters instead of shims.
The 8.25 is even easier to set up the gears on too since it uses threaded side adjusters instead of shims.
Last edited by Iant333; 08-14-2010 at 04:36 PM.
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Well, I already have an ARB that was gonna go in the 35 but it came with the xj when I bought it. Figure it wouldn't be bad to have but I know an ARB works quite a bit differently than a Lockrite. I'm mostly asking cuz I don't want any issues with the lockrite on the road.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
If you have an ARB you wont notice it on the street. It only locks when you flip a switch. A lockrite locks when you give it some gas.
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