I installed a new manifold on my 1996 Xj and I am having a hard time getting the bolts on the bottom torqued to spec. The Xj still has a slight leak should I try a different gasket I used the one that came with the manifold.
Any help would've appreciated.

Thanks

 

Spec is 23 - 24 ft-lbs on cold engine.
The key is making sure the manifolds are fully seated on guide pins.

 

I was told to put a little extra red gasket around the holes and on the engine side of the gasket to help seal. Is this ok to do?

 

I have a load of experience, but my XJ's don't breakdown much. Is that manifold stock or aftermarket? I've seen here on the forum some headers ...the flange might not be even with the intake. (thickness)

Even though it's not called for, I couldn't help but but put a thin layer of rtv, both sides on my intake. I'd never expect silicone to hold up long with exhaust noticably escaping. Me thinks something is not fitting right.

 

If it's aftermarket I would get a Fel-Pro gasket and ditch whatever gasket the header came with. Can you see how big the gap is between the flange and head? Could be that the flange isn't flat.

Also if you use any RTV, use ultra copper instead of the red, it has a temp range of -65 to 700*F. As DFlintstone said though, it sounds like something isn't sitting right.

 

Get the exhaust manifold on the two studs on the very front and back. Then line the intake manifold up, the let the bolts pull both manifolds into place when you tighten them. Follow the correct order for torquing the bolts and nuts.

I did not use rtv on either of my exhaust manifold changes. I also used the gaskets that came with the exhaust manifold. If there is a leak, your idle will be very high.

 

I ordered a fel-pro gasket gonna try that and it is aftermarket header. I am gonna re install. Thanks for all the help

 

I just did mine recently and it went much smoother than I was expecting. I used a fel-pro with no rtv. Always follow the torquing order too.

A couple of tricks I did for any easy install:
-make sure all surfaces touching the gasket are super clean.
-get a buddy and a universal joint for your extensions.
-Use your buddy from underneath to tell you where to move your socket. As I'm sure you know, it's nearly impossible to see from up top.
- put all of the bottom bolts in first, about a half turn past when you find the threads. Then set the exhaust manifold down onto them as a sort of guide. Then you can slide the manifold up onto the guide pins much easier
-hand tighten the easy to reach outer ones to hold it snug until you get the intake all lined up

As far as the torquing goes-- some people may flame me for this but here goes. 24lbs of torque is not enough. That's for an initial torque on a cold motor with a re torque to 39lbs after the motor has been up to temp. But putting the entire truck back together after a hard days work just to take it all apart to re torque sucks. So here is what I did.
Torque everything, in the correct order, to 24 lbs. then set your torque wrench to 39 lbs and in the same order, re torque. Also remember that because you are using a universal joint in a bent position on your torque wrench, you are not actually transferring 100% of the set torque amount to the bolt. So I always throw in a slight little snug past the setting.

That's worked for me so far. Good luck wrenching

 

Just went through something similar when I replaced my stock manifold with an APN header....twice. I tried using the copper spray and the copper rtv and each time it ended up leaking after a few miles. And yes, all the surfaces were clean, everything torqued correctly and so on...

I ended up using a gasket from the jeep dealership with no rtv and no copper spray. The gasket from the dealer is impregnated with graphite or something like that and it creates a superior seal. So far after replacing with this gasket it's running perfectly! Good luck on your rig!

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

Anytime! We're all here to help each other out!

 

What headers are being installed? I recently redid my exhaust system headers back.. Pacesetter 72c1190, true dual, magnaflow crossover muffler and a couple resonated tips.. I had issues with these headers and my original pacesetter ones with bolt #2 my fix was just get longer 14mm/9/16 open wrenches n a small pipe to torque.. Tightening order is key.. I do the order twice and some bolts will need more than 24 ftlbs.. x2 on gasket from dealer.