Yeep factory tweeter theres a plug there all ready ...they do make a difference. No 1 in picture......56002013 and 36001123 .

 

Even though its old technology thats definitely cool. I just can't stand the frickin wire bundle coming down and getting in the way. There's definitely evidence of that system being installed, and it definitely wasn't done professionally.

 

The 75 amp fuse in picture? What do you think it goes to? It doesn't seem factory, the wire goes from orange to blue and then connects to the fuse box with a crimped connector

 

So while we're talking about electrical and wiring, I'm having a problem with my blinkers. My left blinker blinks, but slowly, and then my right blinker doesn't blink, it just stays solid. Could this be because of a bad flasher?

 

Yep, but more likely, bad grounds. Check 'em, clean 'em.

Might be a combination, too.

 

Switch the emergency flasher in turn signal flasher spot easiest way to trouble shoot them.

 

Yeah, at firs the installers were mostly pros, but there got to be a lot of hacks in the business. Most of them, really. When I got out of it, there were high-school kids doing installs for twenty five bucks, if they bothered to show up. I charged $150, and did it right, plus I had insurance.

But all the dealers cared about was $25 vs. $150, so I got out.

 

Well I'm starting to get things worked out with the wiring.
1. Mirrors work.
2. Stereo and speakers work.
3. All except 3 windows work, the drivers side doesnt, the motor isnt bad the wires just broke off flush with the motor(any possible way of saving it?)
4. All dash and dome lights work.

Now for the bad.
1. Headlight switch broken.
2. Fog lights don't work.
3. Power seats stopped working all of a sudden.
4. Rear window wiper doesn't work.
5. Windshield wiper fluid motors don't work.

And there's some more little things. But I guess 277,358 miles will do that to a vehicle. But for $400 I got a running driving 4x4 Jeep, could I even be luckier?

Side note: Does anyone have a diagram or know how to put together a glove box lock for a '91?

 

That's an easy one. Replace it. And do the headlight harness upgrade, while you're at it. Even with a new switch, you're still working with 25+ year old wiring. Take a load off it and give yourself some brighter lights at the same time.


In automotive electrical, of course you always start with properly charged battery, and check your fuses. If that all checks out, it's time to put on your thinking cap and start troubleshooting.

First step, check to see if they light when you apply voltage to the bulb itself. They might just be burned out.

If they do, you need to figure out where the voltage is "getting lost", or more correctly, where the circuit is broken. In the electronics biz, we do what's called, "circuit splitting". This principle can be applied to the interior workings of electronic circuits, to automotive wiring, hydraulic equipment, and just about any other kind of problem.

The idea is to check the "far end" of the circuit first. In this case, the fog light bulbs themselves. If you give them 12v, and they don't light, replace them. This may solve the problem. If they do light, or you replace them with known good bulbs and they still don't work, you know the problem is somewhere between the bulbs and the battery. But where?

Pick a point that is functionally half way between the battery and the lights. (It's not critical that it's EXACTLY halfway, and remember we're talking functionally, not distance.) Test there to see if you get the expected results, which in your case would be 12v. If you don't, you apply 12v to the side of the circuit toward the bulbs. (We'll call this the far end of the circuit.) If the bulbs light, you know the problem is on the near end of the circuit, between your test point and the battery. So, pick a point that is halfway between your test point and the battery. Repeat as needed until you find the problem. Test, verify, split, repeat.

In this case of your fog lights, my first halfway test point would probably be the switch. Is it getting juice, and if so, is it putting OUT juice?

Then go from there.


Wiring under the seats has a tendency to get corrosion in connectors. Once you've checked the fuses (of course), look for that. If they are good, see the circuit splitting ideas above.


Circuit splitting time!

One more point - USE A TEST LIGHT. Meters are great, and should definitely be in your tool box, but sometimes, they can lie to you. If there is corrosion in a connection upstream (toward the battery), the meter may show 12v, but when you put a load on it, that voltage may drop to near zero.

This is because the corrosion can (usually, WILL) create a high resistance. This resistance will choke the flow of current down to the point where a device (fan motor, light bulb, whatever) will not be able to function. BUT, since a meter doesn't draw any appreciable amount of current, it will still show the correct voltage.

So, where corrosion may be a factor, use a test light.



Man, that is one SWEET deal! I see them going for seven or eight hundred when sold as non-runners parts only cars!


Ya done good!

 

I got a new headlight switch and put it in and everything works except my dimmer, it worked before but with the new switch it doesn't so I have no dash lights. Any guesses on why this is? And I tried cleaning the plugs and everything for the seats but that didn't work. And does anyone know how to put one of the glove box locks back together?

Edit: Scratch the first part, I just blew a fuse was all.

 

So I have a new problem to add the list, whenever my stereo is on and I try to roll down or up any of my working it cuts my entire stereo system out, and it also causes my clock to go completely out. This would indicate that there's a short in the power window system correct? And could this also possibly be the reason why power seats stopped working all of a sudden?

 

How do I get a build sheet for my jeep? Didn't know you could do this

 

Follow this link: http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/EmailPage.html
Just fill out the page and tell them that you'd like the build sheet for your vehicle. It took about a week to get mine. When you get the email it'll come up as Chrysler Group instead of Jeep.

 

Bad ground more than likely.

 

Welp, I'm slowly getting the problems worked out. I cleaned a lot the grounds which cleared up some issues. I still have to see if I can solder the wires for my window motor back in there because they broke off right at the motor. The stereo no longer cuts out either! I replaced my headlight switch and got it hooked up and everything but now there's a distinctive whirring sound coming from presumably the headlight switch whenever I pull the headlight **** all the way out. Before my old one broke it would occasionally make the sound and after I got the new one in I never heard it but now it's constant whenever the lights are on. Any thought's to what this may be?