So I was driviong around today and I stop buy krogers when I come out of Krogers my truck wouldent start. When I first turn the key I eneded up having no power. After my lil bro gave me a jump I had power but not crank only clicks. I took the battery to autozone and they told me my battery was at 100% I even went to oreiley and they told me the same thing. Put the battery back in still no start nly clicks. A few hours later me and my dad go back to look at it. The engine would turn over but it would hold. It started to start and it would run at 15500 for a few seconds and then die. After about 10 min of started and pressing the fuel relase it started then a bunch of black smoke came out. It drove home just fine not sure what to do change positive and negative cables. Check cables on started no croosion. wires also seem tight. Sometimes on cold moring If I run it with out letting it dile it will die any suggestion

 

When I first started it it would go up to 1500 rpm then die

 

A bit choppy there bro! Most important in the link in my sig is Cruiser's tips. Check and clean the grounds, or you are just chasing your own tail.

Racing to 1500 rpm is a vacuum leak, or something with the IAC on the TB. Random dieing is something a bad CPS does, (sometimes along with the gauges action goofy)

95? I think your Map is still up in the firewall, see this! ;

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). You can pull the line off the MAP and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs!


AND! .....

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

While you are checking that stuff, check a couple of easy to reach manifold bolts. If any are loose, you need to remove the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out.