EGR valve question for a 96 cherokee
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
EGR valve question for a 96 cherokee
Been having problems with my jeep ideling/starting and i pulled off the TBI and cleaned it, it was completely gumbed up with suit (sp) and unburned fule. was looking in my haynes manual and it shows that i should have an EGR valve, but all i have is a metal fitting that the hose slips over, best way i can describe it is its like a spark plug boot. we pulled that off and drove it and it run perfect. The person i got the jeep off has all kinds of things rigged ect so i wouldnt be surprised if they just took it off an bypassed it. I looked around the net real quick and all i can find is EGR gaskets but no valves. Was wondering if anyone could fill me in on this please.
Thanks,
Will
Thanks,
Will
#2
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
our 96's dont have EGR.
the "boot" is the MAP sensor.
on the throttle body you have the TPS which is on the end of the butterfly pivot, then you have the IAC which is towards the valve cover side then on the fender side you have the MAP sensor.
if it was that bad what I would do is remove the TB and replace the IAC and MAP sensor and clean the crap out of it.
with the MAP sensor removed it should not idle at all but rather die, as the MAP controls your air/fuel ratios below 80% throttle after 80% your TPS takes over.
the "boot" is the MAP sensor.
on the throttle body you have the TPS which is on the end of the butterfly pivot, then you have the IAC which is towards the valve cover side then on the fender side you have the MAP sensor.
if it was that bad what I would do is remove the TB and replace the IAC and MAP sensor and clean the crap out of it.
with the MAP sensor removed it should not idle at all but rather die, as the MAP controls your air/fuel ratios below 80% throttle after 80% your TPS takes over.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I think i understand what your talking about i hope, it is not a hose on the Throttle body it is on the engine right below the MAP sensor. It is not connected to the throttle body in any way. I will try to get a picture tomorrow, but it is just a metal elbow, it looks like a brass fitting, with the hose hooked up to it and it runs up to something (im not sure what sorry ) over on the passanger side of the jeep by the fender/firewall I belive.
#4
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
are you talking about this??
cause that nipple is what the map sensor connects too.
here is a properly set up one outside the jeep
top is IAC, left is throttle cable/spring, right is TPS, bottom is MAP
cause that nipple is what the map sensor connects too.
here is a properly set up one outside the jeep
top is IAC, left is throttle cable/spring, right is TPS, bottom is MAP
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
no the hose i am talking about is not on the TB, i took pictures i just have to figure out how to get them in the post.. so im sorry if it takes me a few trys here it goes...
The red arrow is pointing to were the hose connect to
This is the hose that i took off
This is what the hose runs to, i dont know what this is.
The red arrow is pointing to were the hose connect to
This is the hose that i took off
This is what the hose runs to, i dont know what this is.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, pa
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
That is just a vaccume line for the EVAP leak detection pump. Shouldnt change the way it runs. UNLESS you are running to rich at idle, and pulling that off left enough air in to make it run better. I would pull The IAC and clean it good, put it back in and see what happens.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
it is running rich, i pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it and the IAC and i pulled its housing off and cleaned it also. it ran the same untill i pulled that hose off.
Last edited by Willmafingerdo; 08-09-2011 at 04:50 PM.
#11
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
check your fuel pressure,
also pull a plug and check the condition of the ceramic
but let me check my XJ and see where that goes on mine
also pull a plug and check the condition of the ceramic
but let me check my XJ and see where that goes on mine
#12
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
so yes that is where it is suppose to go.
what I would do is
1) check/replace MAP sensor
2) connect everything back up
3) reset the computer (disconnect and hold the positive side of batter terminals for about 1 minutes to the ground side)
what I would do is
1) check/replace MAP sensor
2) connect everything back up
3) reset the computer (disconnect and hold the positive side of batter terminals for about 1 minutes to the ground side)
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
my plugs are dirty, but im not replacing them untill i know they are not just gonna get messed up again. i pulled them out and cleaned them didnt do anything either. What could be causing it to run rich? it also idles to high i think, if i take my foot off the brake the jeep pulls forward on its own.
the engine it will start right up cold, but if i shut it off and turn it right back on, or withing about 45 min of shutting it down i have to hold the gas peddle in full throtle to get it to start. when i have the hose hooked up i have to hold the gas in a little bit for about 30 seconds - 1 min untill i can drive w/o it stalling out. when i have the hose off i still have to hold the gas to get it to start but once it starts i do not have to hold the gas down to keep it running but i do have to wait 30 sec - 1 min before i can drive still.
I am not sure what other info i can give that would help. I have changed the plugs, wires, distributor, cap, rotor, fule pump, fule filter and a lot more things that i dont think would be relivent to this problem.
the engine it will start right up cold, but if i shut it off and turn it right back on, or withing about 45 min of shutting it down i have to hold the gas peddle in full throtle to get it to start. when i have the hose hooked up i have to hold the gas in a little bit for about 30 seconds - 1 min untill i can drive w/o it stalling out. when i have the hose off i still have to hold the gas to get it to start but once it starts i do not have to hold the gas down to keep it running but i do have to wait 30 sec - 1 min before i can drive still.
I am not sure what other info i can give that would help. I have changed the plugs, wires, distributor, cap, rotor, fule pump, fule filter and a lot more things that i dont think would be relivent to this problem.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
is there a way to test these sensors, map sensor is 100$ at autozone dont have that much to gamble with. I hooked up an OHM meeter to my TPS and it read w/i specs. maybe run to a junk yard and pull some sensors off and see if it runs any different?