Ebrake Not Holding
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 289
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From: West Warwick, RI
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
E-Brake is not holding...All around brand new brakes. Got drums in rear, disks up front. Is there a cable that I can tighten up under the truck? If so, where and what tools would I use to tighten it up? Thanks in advance.
If it just started doing this after you put new drums in the rear, I'd say you need to adjust the drums in the back with the screw adjuster. Or just keep pumping it until it firms up (which, if you installed the brakes correctly, will adjust that screw device to where it needs to be). If that doesn't work, there is a cable by the rear drive shaft towards the tcase end and you can tighten it up there by moving the nuts.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: West Warwick, RI
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Hopefully! Parked on a hill with it in gear and we rolled a mile down the hill. Of course with friends taping every second. Haha. It was comic relief going down at a snails pace. Gave everyone a good laugh, (and myself). Just want to fix it thats all.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: West Warwick, RI
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by mr white
If it just started doing this after you put new drums in the rear, I'd say you need to adjust the drums in the back with the screw adjuster. Or just keep pumping it until it firms up (which, if you installed the brakes correctly, will adjust that screw device to where it needs to be). If that doesn't work, there is a cable by the rear drive shaft towards the tcase end and you can tighten it up there by moving the nuts.
As one poster noted, be sure you adjust the drums with the star wheel first, then adjust the emergency brake cable.
I would definitely recommend doing it the correct way, starting with the drum adjustment, then the cable. Doing it the other way around can cause seizing if you tighten the cable first and the drums auto-adjust with use... and they do auto-adjust with use.
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Make sure you have the cable thats inside the drum the small one that sits on the pivot. Make sure its in the pivot flush. Cable can go behind it if its not right. Your drum should fit pretty snug over the brakes when your wheel adjuster is right, but still be able to rotate by hand. You want to feel some rubbing when you rotate the drum. It will self-adjust from there
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
the best way to do it for a correct adjustment is to do it with both rear wheels in the air. place the car in nuetual and block the front wheels
adjust the rear drum till you can feel a slight resistance on one wheel, then back it off 3 times.
go to the next wheel and adjust it till you have that slight resistance again (the wheel should make no more then 1 full rotation with your best effort). do not set this wheel back 3 turns like you did the other one.
now go back to the other side and put the 3 turns back in that you took off to get that right adjustment again.
now set the rear down, start the jeep and pump the brakes a few times
now pull the brake lever, it should not go up more then 4-6 clicks. if it does, you need to get under the jeep and adjust the e-brake cables. the cable adjuster is in the middle right above your transfercase where the rear drive shaft comes out.
adjust the rear drum till you can feel a slight resistance on one wheel, then back it off 3 times.
go to the next wheel and adjust it till you have that slight resistance again (the wheel should make no more then 1 full rotation with your best effort). do not set this wheel back 3 turns like you did the other one.
now go back to the other side and put the 3 turns back in that you took off to get that right adjustment again.
now set the rear down, start the jeep and pump the brakes a few times
now pull the brake lever, it should not go up more then 4-6 clicks. if it does, you need to get under the jeep and adjust the e-brake cables. the cable adjuster is in the middle right above your transfercase where the rear drive shaft comes out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
less hassle way is to set the brake about half way, back up at speed and stop harshly. If you hear a clicking noise from the wheel when this is done the brake is resetting may have to do this more than once. If this does not work go to the manual method. And remember E-brakes hold you from going forward not backward.
less hassle way is to set the brake about half way, back up at speed and stop harshly. If you hear a clicking noise from the wheel when this is done the brake is resetting may have to do this more than once. If this does not work go to the manual method. And remember E-brakes hold you from going forward not backward.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 734
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From: Connecticut
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know this is an old thread but I have a question. I'm having trouble with my e-brake after replacing all rear brake parts and the e-brake cables. Before my brakes let go I would use the e-brake to hold my Cherokee and my 4000 lb. boat on a steep ramp backwards. My question is why shouldn't the e-brake hold in reverse? Thanks
I saw your other post. I think your issue is brake adjustment. The post above has a great explanation of the adjustment. Do you have a Haynes manual or FSM you can look at? After putting new parts in the rear drums they have to be adjusted for tension since the new parts are not worn like the old. I see a lot of drum brake issues/e brake issues that end up being related to the adjusters.
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0


