Power window.
Was rolling it down. Heard a bang.
Once window got to bottom, I then raised it.
Later, I rolled the window down again,
but this time it is stuck all the way down.

Switch works.
Motor works (I can hear it)

Any guess what is wrong?
What should I do to investigate?

Best place to buy a cheap regulator?
I think I replaced the window motor a few years back.

9/1/2017
I installed this $38 Ebay regulator.
Fitment was 99%. I just had to carbide bit one of the window motor mount holes to expand it 1mm.

 

Well, obviously the first thing is pull the door panel and take a peek. If the glass had come loose it would've fallen into the door, so it sounds more like the gear broke/stripped on the motor.

 

regulator is shot right here


how i know this is because mine did the exact same thing and whoop the window fell into the door. Then a week later i closed the passenger door and weee that one broke and window fell into the door. Kinda baffled me at first like did that really happen just now?

 

Do not give in to these corporate big wigs that want $200 for a new regulator because of a piece of broken plastic!

Check this out:

http://www.steigerperformance.com/

Not sure why I can't link the specific page but if you drill down into products>Jeep its the first link.

 

I avoided ebay ones for the fact i had to return it 4 times because the first one i got was a grand cherokee regulator even though it specifically said xj with the xj regulator. So returned that one and got another one and guess what used and broke! so again with this and i got it and looked legit so i go to bolt it in and ok so far so good i went to roll it down and that worked but when i went to roll them up nothing at all. Returned and got one more and my last straw went to bolt it in and the bolt pattern was completely wrong! so i said screw it and ordered one from am auto parts: https://www.am-autoparts.com/Jeep/Ch...97/532803.html no problems for months now PLUS it comes with a 10 year warranty!

 

Mine was not broken like that photo above. The elevator part was fine.
In mine, the worm cable just totally came loose from the motor.
The BANG must have been from the cable uncoiling and hitting into the door panel.

I ended up fixing mine by sticking the cable back into the motor.
Best to not raise the window 100% since it stresses the mechanism.

 

Broke again, so I installed this $38 Ebay regulator.
Fitment was 99%. I just had to carbide bit one of the window motor mount holes to expand it 1mm.
Installed great and works perfectly so far.,

 

Those of us with 2-door's have no choice but to either buy a used 2-door regulator, fix or jury rig the broken ones.

Yeah, returning items bought from fleabay can sometimes be a pain at least it was for me.
Took almost a month to finally get a refund for a DOA item even with the seller fully cooperative.
Must of been a couple dozen emails back and forth between the seller, me and different Paypal departments.
Maybe if i had a Paypal account it all would of been a little easier...don't know.

I always try to buy parts locally first before going on-line.
Makes refunds or exchanges painless in addition to supporting local businesses.

 

I do that too never hurts.... But close to 250 dollars at the auto parts store, I dont think so lol internet is always my second choice compared to first. But i do price estimate everything online.

 

That's why I posted the link.
I am confirming that it fits and works great.
It even seems engineered better than the OEM version.

 

What auto parts store was this?

For kicks i looked up a couple local store prices for the front driver side window regulator for my 2k IF it was a 4-door.
That one typically gets the most use and usually breaks first.

NAPA, $106 (sale price) limited lifetime warranty
Auto Zone, $112 lifetime warranty

 

Timely thread. Today while putting the passenger rear window up I heard crunchy cable noises like I've heard with other regulator failures. I then noticed the tail of the regulator cable sticking out through the drain hole in the bottom of the door. I took a look online and was surprised to find rear regulators somewhat hard to find and expensive.

I popped the panel to take a look and found the plastic tube/sleeve that guides the cable end had broken where it connects to the motor. After a little thinking, I came up with the idea of a PVC "splint" to keep the cable going where it should. I don't expect it to be a permanent fix, but it has worked fine for 30+ test window up/down cycles. I'll try to attach a pic or two that will explain. The splint was too long at 2.5 inches and too short at 1.5 inches. Two inches seems just about right.


Hope this helps someone.

 

Junky, that is exactly what was wrong with mine.
That plastic sleeve would pop out when the window was fully up or down.
Don't go to 100% and you'll put less stress on it.

How did you get the splint to be tight?
I was thinking of Crazy Glue, but then installed the new $38 Ebay special.

 

It's a pretty snug fit just pressed onto the larger hunk of plastic. Getting it short enough to be pushed on straight but still offer enough support for the plastic tube made the difference. It kept slipping off when it was longer. I gobbed a bunch of hot glue on it to help keep it in place but I suspect it will fall off sooner or later. A quick look on eBay didn't turn up any for the rear. This at least gives me time to find one.

 

If its a 97-01 XJ, there are 3 passenger side rear power window regulators on ebay right now for under $50. Mine is a 97, so i searched for a '97 cherokee window regulator passenger rear'.