Door jamb button issue
12-11-2018, 03:32 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Door jamb button issue
On my 96 Cherokee driver side door the door jamb button has been replaced and the wiring has been checked what happens is when I turn the car on as soon as i open the door it starts to stall if I push my finger in on the door jamb it brings the idle up again has anybody had that problem and how do you fix it. I disconnected the door jamb button on the driver side and it runs fine I don't have the issue with the passenger side or the rear liftgate just the driver side. I do want to know what the problem is though because I'd like to hook the door jamb button up again and I don't want it to cause any other issues down the road.
Last edited by Baw; 12-11-2018 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Adding information
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sesolo12 (12-11-2020)
12-11-2018, 03:55 PM
#2
CF Veteran
It was having the problem before replacing the door jam sensor (button) right? You are saying that the problem persists after replacing it and checking the wiring?
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
The following users liked this post:
sesolo12 (12-11-2020)
12-11-2018, 09:19 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
It was having the problem before replacing the door jam sensor (button) right? You are saying that the problem persists after replacing it and checking the wiring?
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
12-11-2018, 10:05 PM
#4
CF Veteran
So I have combed through the diagrams to try and find a clue. The main difference between the circuits involved with the drive door switch vs. the other ones is a relationship with the headlight switch. That doesn't necessarily mean anything yet, but I was looking for anything obviously different since you said the other switches don't produce the problem. For the fun of it you should see if you can reproduce the problem even when the headlight switch is in different positions. Report back on that.
From a big picture, the door jam switch is responsible for providing a ground (battery negative) for a variety of components, primarily interior lights and door buzzer related. Within the harness there is one main ground circuit (called Z1) and the door jamb switch closes a connection when the door is open that allows a path to that Z1 ground circuit (that ultimately ends up back at battery negative).
There are no obvious relationships to engine control components such as fuel pump relay, automatic shutdown relay, or sensors. But that just means the relationship isn't obvious, because the symptoms don't lie.
From a big picture, the door jam switch is responsible for providing a ground (battery negative) for a variety of components, primarily interior lights and door buzzer related. Within the harness there is one main ground circuit (called Z1) and the door jamb switch closes a connection when the door is open that allows a path to that Z1 ground circuit (that ultimately ends up back at battery negative).
There are no obvious relationships to engine control components such as fuel pump relay, automatic shutdown relay, or sensors. But that just means the relationship isn't obvious, because the symptoms don't lie.
12-12-2018, 08:06 AM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Door jamb issue
It was having the problem before replacing the door jam sensor (button) right? You are saying that the problem persists after replacing it and checking the wiring?
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
It may not be the door sensor itself, but one of the components that comes to life when the door is open. That door jam sensor is tied into a lot of other items (think dome lights, courtesy lights, door chime/buzzer, etc).
When I get home I'll take a look at the 96 FSM for the door jam sensor and see what the likely suspects are. But my guess is that one of those items is coming to life and taking out the ground of something else that ultimately (probably in some round about fashion) finds its way to the ASD relay or Fuel Pump power sources.
But believe it or not, a door sensor causing a running problem is not all that uncommon in older cars like ours. The circuits are all shared, which can create some strange relationships.
12-12-2018, 12:57 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Door jamb issue
I I tried the lights several different ways and it didn't change anything as long as that door jamb button is disconnected it idles fine and there is no problems
12-14-2018, 03:50 PM
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Still having problems with door jamb button issue
Okay so the ground on the radio is good and today I put new Inns on the battery cables clean them all really well and it's still hesitating when the door is open so I disconnected it again is anybody have any suggestions I really want to fix this but I don't know what else to look for thanks for your help.
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12-15-2018, 03:54 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Just a suggestion but take a look in the main power distribution box, get a multimeter out and with someone else, read some voltages directly off of the fuses.
Have the engine running and door shut and while reading each fuse, open the door and see if any drop significantly. If so it may help find a link from there.
There is a lot in the diagrams to sift through and trace.
Have the engine running and door shut and while reading each fuse, open the door and see if any drop significantly. If so it may help find a link from there.
There is a lot in the diagrams to sift through and trace.
12-16-2018, 01:51 PM
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Just a suggestion but take a look in the main power distribution box, get a multimeter out and with someone else, read some voltages directly off of the fuses.
Have the engine running and door shut and while reading each fuse, open the door and see if any drop significantly. If so it may help find a link from there.
There is a lot in the diagrams to sift through and trace.
Have the engine running and door shut and while reading each fuse, open the door and see if any drop significantly. If so it may help find a link from there.
There is a lot in the diagrams to sift through and trace.
12-17-2018, 01:59 PM
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
Regarding door jamb button
well hopefully I found the problem I had replaced a turn signal socket a while back and found the wiring was not correct had help rewiring it this morning I won't know till the morning because it usually does it when it's ice cold thanks for all your help from everybody.
12-19-2018, 07:33 PM
#14
CF Veteran
My next troubleshooting step would be to get a DC amp clamp around the door jam sensor (button) wires, and see if the amperage shoots up when the button is open (door is open). If the amperage jumps up, this will indicate that something is shorting through the button when it is connected to ground (which is what it does when it is in the door-open position).
Do your door chimes/buzzers work as they should?
Because the other thing that could be at play here is that for whatever reason the door buzzer module creates tremendous RF (radio frequency) interference. Which can effect ignition in various ways. Is the buzzer going off when this problem happens?
Do your door chimes/buzzers work as they should?
Because the other thing that could be at play here is that for whatever reason the door buzzer module creates tremendous RF (radio frequency) interference. Which can effect ignition in various ways. Is the buzzer going off when this problem happens?
12-19-2018, 07:42 PM
#15
CF Veteran
Do whatever is necessary to disconnect/disable the buzzer, and see if the problem still happens. Especially if this problem happened with both the old button and the new button.
When my buzzer is on my CB radio lights up like a Christmas tree. Giving and indication of the strong RF signals produced by the buzzer module. If this is happening over the right frequencies it can mess with a variety of things, not least of which is the magnetic/analog signal being produced by the crankshaft position sensor and cam position sensors. Both of which, when fuzzed up can cause immediate stalling issues.
For example, my idle dips lower than normal every time I stop at the intersection in my town by a brightly lit animated/LED bank sign that sits on the corner, as soon as I move away from the sign...my idle is normal again.
Older vehicles like ours were not very well shielded from this type of interference, so this test is important to rule out.
When my buzzer is on my CB radio lights up like a Christmas tree. Giving and indication of the strong RF signals produced by the buzzer module. If this is happening over the right frequencies it can mess with a variety of things, not least of which is the magnetic/analog signal being produced by the crankshaft position sensor and cam position sensors. Both of which, when fuzzed up can cause immediate stalling issues.
For example, my idle dips lower than normal every time I stop at the intersection in my town by a brightly lit animated/LED bank sign that sits on the corner, as soon as I move away from the sign...my idle is normal again.
Older vehicles like ours were not very well shielded from this type of interference, so this test is important to rule out.