jeep_life

Im going to be putting on a 6.5in lift from rusty's on my 2000 jeep cherokee. What do i all need, i need to know everything that im going to have to purchase so any help with this would be appricated.

xjjeepthing

His kit is pretty complete. Spend the money and get the Adjustable upper and lower arms.

grn99

What are your plans for use, and what size tire are you looking to run?
At 6.5 I would seriously consider running a long arm kit.

jeep_life

i plan on running 33s for tires and its my daily driver and it will see the sand dunes alot....a little bit of two tracking also

grn99

Its your rig , but why use a 6.5 w/33"s? Not baggin on you but you could run a 4.5 w/33s no problem. It would also be a better application for your uses. Just my opinion
There is alot to consider using a 6.5. First an SYE kit & driveshaft, I,d go w/35s, gearing, & def go long arms.
I run a RE 4.5 super flex kit on my DD/ trail toy. It was the most complete kit avail. and was the best price for what you get. I also have enough room to run 35s. I currently run the adj UCA and fixed LCAs that came with the kit, but plan on changing to long arms in the future.

jeep_life

i was going to go 4.5 and thats what a friend of mine has and it dont sit tall enough for me...35s are to much....you loose to much power

caged

with 4.5 and 33's you have to cut the fenders for sure.
if not, you can't disconnect, and even if you disconnect without cutting enough, you'll carve up your tires, big time.

i put a lift in my buddies 2000 xj and cut his fenders, both front and rear, and he still cuts his tires when disconnected.
we have to lift a bit more, and cut some more too. maybe even extend the bumpstops, but that reduces flex, and we can't have that.

oh, and no SYE either. but rusty's 6.5, you might need one.
i agree, at 6.5, a longarm is nicer, but rusty's is designed to work with short arms.

git r done haha

jeep_life

yea and i dont want to do any cutting ...my jeep is extremly clean and i want it to stay that way

a1racer

at 6.5 you are going to need the s.y.e. and drive shaft longer brake lines if the kit does not include them and most likely a control arm drop bracket. but other than that i would get the long arm kit not the standard it will give way more flex in front. plus you wont need the control arm drop bracket. oh and you might want to go to 4.56 gears for the 33's

jeep_life

do i really need the long arm if im not going to be doing much off roading with it...couldnt i just go with the spring kit

XJ?2010

Most of the time people get long arms cause its a better on road ride. but for the sand dunes it shouldn,t matter cause thats not a lot of flexing so the short arms wont hold u back

grn99

With proper bumpstopping you will not tear your tires up. Even discoed. It also allows the axle to drop rather than stuff to get its flex. It has worked for me so far.

xjjeepthing

I think people push long arms because its the hot new thing to do. Yes it will ride a bit rough with short arms, but its a Jeep with lift springs so what. Drop brackets help but then you loss ground clearence

grn99

It dose allow for a smother ride. But for me a long arm allows more travel and is a sfer design for a taller lift. Safer because it relocates the intersection of the suspension ferther back on the chassis. The closer you get it to the middle of the chassis the more ballanced you weight is. Similar to how a drag car has more efficiant traction the closer the triangulation to the center of the car its mounted.

Mattpar

6.5 kit is $1,100...
4.5 kit is $700.

I'd personally run the 4.5" and use the extra money for lockers, gears, or skids

But since you said your not gonna be doing much offroad, 6.5 would look more impressive