Does anyone know what this is?
07-23-2016, 01:56 PM
#1
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Year: 2000
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Does anyone know what this is?
Does anyone know the name of this? It came off a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Limited. It has one prong on it.
Last edited by challenger20; 07-23-2016 at 02:02 PM.
07-23-2016, 03:13 PM
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Ahh ok. Makes sense. Mine has no microfarad ratings or anything on it, so I was pretty stumped. Thanks for your help. Do you know what the microfarad rating should measure on these? I'll test it out with a meter. Thanks for the help. All I have is dog treats at the moment. 
07-23-2016, 03:57 PM
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Year: 1999
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I have no test specs on this this. The 2000 XJ FSM doesn't show it the wiring diagrams but the 2001 FSM does. There's no mention of it in the FSM. I just happen to stumble upon the 2001 diagram that shows it so I went searching for a pic on the web - the one I posted.
Some folks on Jeep forums say they've disconnected it and it made no difference. I think the German engineers that Chrysler inherited saw that they had one on their Mercedes Benz vehicles so they incorporated it on the XJ's.
As a side bar - that threaded hole in the head for the stud is on the 0630 head, dates back to 1996. The Germans figured they better fill that hole with something.
Edit: If you're going to stick around the Forum you may want to enter your Jeep specs under your User CP, or add them to a signature. Helps others.
Some folks on Jeep forums say they've disconnected it and it made no difference. I think the German engineers that Chrysler inherited saw that they had one on their Mercedes Benz vehicles so they incorporated it on the XJ's.
As a side bar - that threaded hole in the head for the stud is on the 0630 head, dates back to 1996. The Germans figured they better fill that hole with something.
Edit: If you're going to stick around the Forum you may want to enter your Jeep specs under your User CP, or add them to a signature. Helps others.
Last edited by CCKen; 07-23-2016 at 03:59 PM.
07-23-2016, 09:09 PM
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I also couldn't find it in the factory service manual either. When I tested capacitance on it, it showed .5 microfarads and when I googled the name that you gave me (much appreciated), it said 0.47 on all of them that I seen. So I'm guessing that maybe that's the rating? It didn't make any difference on mine when I unplugged it either. But I was thinking if it's already running rich and the capacitor is bad or weak, then would it make much of a difference if you unplugged it? I don't know. This Jeep runs rich and makes a knock until you put it under a load and drive around for a while then when I put it back in park, there's nothing wrong with it. I can tell it's running rich because the strong fuel odor at the exhaust, all plugs are black until I drive it around and burn it off, gas is in the oil. I've replaced coil pack (2x), TPS, IAC, Air charge sensor, flywheel, MAP sensor, Air filter, Oil is at right level, Seafoamed everything,Upstream O2 sensor, OEM Crank sensor, Cam sensor, Fuel pump, Coolant sensor, checked all fuses and relays lol. Took it down to the mechanic and was told that they would need further testing for 300 dollars. So a no go on that. Nothing wrong with transmission and injectors aren't leaking, so I'm stumped. Need one y'all Jeep gurus help. I'll try to update all my info in a bit. Thanks for the help so far.
07-24-2016, 07:16 AM
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Year: 1999
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I also couldn't find it in the factory service manual either. When I tested capacitance on it, it showed .5 microfarads and when I googled the name that you gave me (much appreciated), it said 0.47 on all of them that I seen. So I'm guessing that maybe that's the rating? It didn't make any difference on mine when I unplugged it either. But I was thinking if it's already running rich and the capacitor is bad or weak, then would it make much of a difference if you unplugged it? I don't know.
This Jeep runs rich and makes a knock until you put it under a load and drive around for a while then when I put it back in park, there's nothing wrong with it. I can tell it's running rich because the strong fuel odor at the exhaust, all plugs are black until I drive it around and burn it off, gas is in the oil.
I've replaced
coil pack (2x),
TPS,
IAC,
Air charge sensor,
flywheel,
MAP sensor,
Air filter,
Oil is at right level,
Seafoamed everything,
Upstream O2 sensor,
OEM Crank sensor,
Cam sensor,
Fuel pump,
Coolant sensor,
checked all fuses and relays lol.
Took it down to the mechanic and was told that they would need further testing for 300 dollars. So a no go on that.
Nothing wrong with transmission
and injectors aren't leaking, so I'm stumped.
Need one y'all Jeep gurus help. I'll try to update all my info in a bit. Thanks for the help so far.
This Jeep runs rich and makes a knock until you put it under a load and drive around for a while then when I put it back in park, there's nothing wrong with it. I can tell it's running rich because the strong fuel odor at the exhaust, all plugs are black until I drive it around and burn it off, gas is in the oil.
I've replaced
coil pack (2x),
TPS,
IAC,
Air charge sensor,
flywheel,
MAP sensor,
Air filter,
Oil is at right level,
Seafoamed everything,
Upstream O2 sensor,
OEM Crank sensor,
Cam sensor,
Fuel pump,
Coolant sensor,
checked all fuses and relays lol.
Took it down to the mechanic and was told that they would need further testing for 300 dollars. So a no go on that.
Nothing wrong with transmission
and injectors aren't leaking, so I'm stumped.
Need one y'all Jeep gurus help. I'll try to update all my info in a bit. Thanks for the help so far.
I take it your 2000 is a Federal Emissions exhaust system with one downstream Catalytic Converter with two O2S'.
There are a few things that can cause a rich issue.
MAP sensor problems, high fuel pressure, faulty evaporative emissions components (LDP), leaking injectors, defective O2 sensors, exhaust leaks/pinholes before the upstream O2S, coolant temp sensor problems, and base engine issues such as incorrect cam timing.
In that you have changed the MAP, ECT sensor, upstream O2S, and determined that the injectors are not leaking, fuel pump, and cam sensor, you may want to see if your Leak Detection Pump hoses are connected and not cracked, and see if your exhaust manifold is cracked upstream of the upstream O2S.
If you are not getting a check engine graphic on your instrument cluster check the bulb by seeing if it comes on when the key is turned to ON (before starting the engine). There are diagnostic trouble codes that can be set without turning on the engine graphic so see if you can get a scanner and check if there are any set or pending codes.
With the scanner, check live data before starting the engine and during warm up. See if you are going in to closed loop at or before 150*F, check the short term fuel trim, and see if the upstream O2S is toggling about every two seconds, and if the downstream O2S is working.
07-24-2016, 01:58 PM
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Yes, mine has only 2 O2 sensors. One before and one after the catalytic converter. I ran Seafoam through it. That's how I determined that there were no leaks in the exhaust. I just figured it would be puffing white smoke if it was leaking. I don't know if this is a sure proof way of knowing or not. Can the downstream O2 sensor (one after the cat) cause it to run rich? The CEL bulb seems to be working. While it's running I can unplug an injector and it will kick the light on. I just check and erase the code (open circuit Injector 3). I did fix one vacuum leak the other day and it started running smoother (when hot). Still runs rich when cold though. I fixed the vacuum on the front passenger side under the battery tray. I'll hook up the scanner after I finish this reply and see if both O2 sensors are changing voltage while running. Thanks for the help.
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07-25-2016, 09:54 AM
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Both O2 sensors seem to be changing voltage okay. Going from .1 to 1.4ish when giving it throttle. I guess I'll try to look for more vacuum leaks. About the only thing left that I can think to do. At least it's free lol. 
07-25-2016, 10:35 AM
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Looking for a cracked exhaust manifold using Seafoam is not a good idea. Try removing stuff out of the way and visually inspect the manifold.
Some years back I found a crack in my exhaust manifold by using a shop vac set up to blow. Hooked it up to my exhaust pipe and ran the shop vac. Found a small crack by feeling air blow out the crack
Some years back I found a crack in my exhaust manifold by using a shop vac set up to blow. Hooked it up to my exhaust pipe and ran the shop vac. Found a small crack by feeling air blow out the crack
07-25-2016, 03:59 PM
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I hooked up a Shop Vac to blow in the exhaust and didn't feel any air around the Y and the couplings or on the side of the head or around O2 etc. I took a puff of a cigarette and blew through the Brake Booster vacuum line and seen smoke coming out from around the throttle body. It looks like it's coming out around the throttle lever. So I took off the throttle body and there is a bit of play in the throttle lever. I'll try cleaning the mating surfaces of the intake and throttle body and see if that fixes it. If not then I'll go to the scrapyard and get a new throttle body tomorrow and see if that resolves the issue. Thanks a lot for the help and I'll let you know if it fixes the issue.
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