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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:01 PM
  #16  
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From: dhs
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Originally Posted by Pelican
Looks complete and then some!

I've never used a scan tool but realize that, by definition, it should be way more accurate than the dash gauge but I am curious as to how the temps compare and how they compare with an IR unit..

Also, what are some examples of operating temps and are these typical of all phases of operation -- idle, highway etc.
IR tools are not accurate on shiny surfaces. So the temps on the radiator was done with a wire probe. And the outside of the t stat housing is cooler than the coolant running behind it. But under 100 degrees outside it Will run under 210 above that and it will climb up to 230 if I let it. Forget running the a/c. Same at idle under 100 it will stay down but above it will climb to 216 at a light. Oh and I am running without a hood. It is getting old driving in this heat with the heater on.

About my rig I am on 35's stock axles for now 3.55 gears. Sye, new wires, plugs (champion). Aw4 4.0l obviously. I wish someone here knew how to read a scan tool as far as what my o2 sensors should be reading. Just trying to figure if the cpu is leaning it out. My mpg sucks as you probably would have guessed.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:03 PM
  #17  
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and I don't see anywhere what temps you're running at and under what conditions...
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by sthon

Why?
Was before I did carbon monoxide test was recommended by a buddy as a if there is a micro leak this will stop it but the radiator has been changed since then.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by sventinker
IR tools are not accurate on shiny surfaces. So the temps on the radiator was done with a wire probe. And the outside of the t stat housing is cooler than the coolant running behind it. But under 100 degrees outside it Will run under 210 above that and it will climb up to 230 if I let it. Forget running the a/c. Same at idle under 100 it will stay down but above it will climb to 216 at a light. Oh and I am running without a hood. It is getting old driving in this heat with the heater on.

About my rig I am on 35's stock axles for now 3.55 gears. Sye, new wires, plugs (champion). Aw4 4.0l obviously. I wish someone here knew how to read a scan tool as far as what my o2 sensors should be reading. Just trying to figure if the cpu is leaning it out. My mpg sucks as you probably would have guessed.
35's with 3.55 gears?
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:08 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by sthon
and I don't see anywhere what temps you're running at and under what conditions...
I was typing as you posted. See these temps climb fast from cold it reachrs temperature within one mile and say its at 210 and I turn on the a/c in one mile it will be at 220 when its above 100 outside. I want to be able to crawl offroad it won't stay cool at 60 mph. And the condenser is clean and the fins are straight.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sthon

35's with 3.55 gears?
I know its sluggish but I baby it so to not load it too much. I have an 8.8 I'm re gearing now with 4.56's
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:15 PM
  #22  
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dhs = desert hot springs?
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 02:06 AM
  #23  
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35s on 3.55s is going to put a lot of stress on the drivetrain, making it work harder, thus making it get hotter faster. You're going to need every component of the cooling system to be in tip top shape.

And you didnt answer my questions a few posts up
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 05:32 AM
  #24  
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Whats your oil pressure
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sventinker
IR tools are not accurate on shiny surfaces. So the temps on the radiator was done with a wire probe. And the outside of the t stat housing is cooler than the coolant running behind it. But under 100 degrees outside it Will run under 210 above that and it will climb up to 230 if I let it. Forget running the a/c. Same at idle under 100 it will stay down but above it will climb to 216 at a light. Oh and I am running without a hood. It is getting old driving in this heat with the heater on.

About my rig I am on 35's stock axles for now 3.55 gears. Sye, new wires, plugs (champion). Aw4 4.0l obviously. I wish someone here knew how to read a scan tool as far as what my o2 sensors should be reading. Just trying to figure if the cpu is leaning it out. My mpg sucks as you probably would have guessed.
Are you running fan shrouds also running with out hood does nothing the only thing running heater does is kick on aux fan that tiny bit of extra coolant in heater core has very little effect. Have you ever replaced factory aux fan. Upgradeing to newer style aux fan greatly adds to cooling capability.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 06:00 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
35s on 3.55s is going to put a lot of stress on the drivetrain, making it work harder, thus making it get hotter faster. You're going to need every component of the cooling system to be in tip top shape.

And you didnt answer my questions a few posts up
Has no effect at idle .
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 06:06 AM
  #27  
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Warmer temps at idles gonna be air circulation problem 99% of the time .Cruising will be coolant flow issue. Cooling fans will draw air from area of least resistance when hoods off its easier to draw from above than thru radiator when hoods closed .
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 07:34 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Has no effect at idle .
Ah. Yes. Idle. True.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #29  
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I'm no mechanic and not sure if this applies here......

I had a terrible time passing smog, I was kicking out high NOX readings at the low speed test. Through my research I found that was caused by excessive combustion temps. I ditched the 195* thermostat for a 180* and installed a set of spark plugs that is 1 tempature range colder than stock.

Long story short it passed smog and has never run better. I do not get those Phantom Fluctuations in tempature any more
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sthon
dhs = desert hot springs?
Yes
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