DIY AC help
08-01-2012, 09:15 AM
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Year: 2001
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DIY AC help
I've got a very slow leak in my 2001. I got it recharged at the beginning of the summer. I watched the guy suck 2 cans into it and he charged me $60. How hard can that be?
What do I need to do it myself?
What do I need to do it myself?
08-01-2012, 09:31 AM
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Year: 1998
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2 cans and an adaptor how ever it only holds 1.25 lbs so that is gonna be 1 12 oz can and 1/3 of a second can
however that being said it likely that you dont need the entire charge since you say its a slow leak if the compressor still cycles at all i would only buy 1 can and the adaptor. in fact you can buy a can that comes with the gauge already attached to the top of the can. there is a whole slew of vids on youtube just awaiting youre searching
however that being said it likely that you dont need the entire charge since you say its a slow leak if the compressor still cycles at all i would only buy 1 can and the adaptor. in fact you can buy a can that comes with the gauge already attached to the top of the can. there is a whole slew of vids on youtube just awaiting youre searching
Last edited by kennzz05; 08-01-2012 at 09:42 AM.
08-01-2012, 09:46 AM
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i agree once a summer is slow now youre doing it twice so its not really slow. you can purchase the refrigerant with dye in it already so that it will make it easier to locate. however its probably the evap coil, i just did mine this week, its time consuming but not impossible as im certainly no mechanic
08-01-2012, 10:51 AM
#5
I disagree. Twice a summer is slow to me. In fact once a month leak is slow. I costs about fifteen dollars a can. If he needs two cans a summer that's thirty dollars a year.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
08-01-2012, 11:02 AM
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I disagree. Twice a summer is slow to me. In fact once a month leak is slow. I costs about fifteen dollars a can. If he needs two cans a summer that's thirty dollars a year.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
i was seriously paranoid aboud removing the dash(swinging it out towards drivers side) and would probably never have done it for myself as i hardly ever drive the xj anymore (over the road truck driver home bout 40 days a year) but now my son is driving it so it was a good project to do togeather. i got my instructional from olblue on this site and if i can do it anyone can
08-01-2012, 11:24 AM
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Slow/fast - is all relative!
45 MPH is too slow on a freeway, but too fast in a school zone - either will get you a ticket!
Why is it out of 50 or more potential places to leak, it's ASSumed it's the hardest one to fix?
In my experience servicing AC - especially soon after it's been worked on - it's the Schrader valves - either HI or LO.
A tiny piece of grit holds them open slightly - the leak. Try tightening them. It takes a special tool that LOOKS like a tire valve tool, but is longer and stronger.
Get a leak detector - far better than dye - here's one for cheap - it will save lots of trouble and expense and tell you in seconds!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Freon-CFC-HF...item35ad0f5c50
If it really is the evaporator it'll sing out when you hold it by an interior vent.
Time to pick up a couple more Cherokees - I'm down to one now.
45 MPH is too slow on a freeway, but too fast in a school zone - either will get you a ticket!
Why is it out of 50 or more potential places to leak, it's ASSumed it's the hardest one to fix?
In my experience servicing AC - especially soon after it's been worked on - it's the Schrader valves - either HI or LO.
A tiny piece of grit holds them open slightly - the leak. Try tightening them. It takes a special tool that LOOKS like a tire valve tool, but is longer and stronger.
Get a leak detector - far better than dye - here's one for cheap - it will save lots of trouble and expense and tell you in seconds!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Freon-CFC-HF...item35ad0f5c50
If it really is the evaporator it'll sing out when you hold it by an interior vent.
Time to pick up a couple more Cherokees - I'm down to one now.
Last edited by rrich; 08-01-2012 at 11:26 AM.
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08-01-2012, 11:28 AM
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I disagree. Twice a summer is slow to me. In fact once a month leak is slow. I costs about fifteen dollars a can. If he needs two cans a summer that's thirty dollars a year.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
If he takes it to a shop, it'll be three to seven hundred dollars depending on where the leak is. And let's face it it's likely in his evaporator. Thirty dollars versus six or seven hundred dollars? He'd have to pump R134 for ten years to come ahead financially.
Not a lot of people (myself included) would ever want to open their dash to DIY a fix. It's incredibly time consuming in the best case scenario. And worst case, you'd end up damaging some electronics back there and creating new problems.
IMO for a leak this slow, just buy the R134, a gauge and follow the easy peasy instructions on the can.
Let's face it, owning a XJ, or any 4X4 for that matter, is not for the financially faint of heart. Expenses can be less when we use our own time and energy vs paying dealer/shop rates.
Last edited by tgordon; 08-01-2012 at 11:32 AM.
08-01-2012, 11:35 AM
#9
Originally Posted by tgordon
When we are not depending on the AC to keep us comfortable it is still necessary to maintain the system. What I mean is the AC compressor runs when the defroster is on. This is so the oil in the system gets pumped thru the compressor to keep it from drying out. The system will self destruct while not being used once all the juice is gone. Just like the engine the compressor must have lubrication or it gets destroyed.
I'm not discouraging the guy to upkeep his XJ. If the thought of having a leak upsets him so much that he wants to spend the money to get it fixed, great I'm just doing a cost benefit analysis and to me it's a slam dunk to just keep pumping R134 as needed.
08-01-2012, 11:47 AM
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Year: 1998
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Why is it out of 50 or more potential places to leak, it's ASSumed it's the hardest one to fix?
In my experience servicing AC - especially soon after it's been worked on - it's the Schrader valves - either HI or LO.
A tiny piece of grit holds them open slightly - the leak. Try tightening them. It takes a special tool that LOOKS like a tire valve tool, but is longer and stronger. (quote)
because its the known most common locale for our a/c system to fail hundreds of threads about it online
and i assume youre experiance serviceing a/c is like mine on residential, their are no schrader valves on cars since 1994 when they did away with r12
In my experience servicing AC - especially soon after it's been worked on - it's the Schrader valves - either HI or LO.
A tiny piece of grit holds them open slightly - the leak. Try tightening them. It takes a special tool that LOOKS like a tire valve tool, but is longer and stronger. (quote)
because its the known most common locale for our a/c system to fail hundreds of threads about it online
and i assume youre experiance serviceing a/c is like mine on residential, their are no schrader valves on cars since 1994 when they did away with r12
08-01-2012, 01:20 PM
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RESIDENTIAL? Never did one.
The places where you attach the hoses to fill it - both HI and LO side are Schrader valves - what do you call them?
They look like tire valves but are slightly different.
How else do you add refrigerant?
Don't know about 2012 vehicles, but my 2011 Hyundai, both my Rubi's, my 95 Cherokee all all my other vehicles with AC use those valves.
BTW R-12 systems used mineral oil - R-134 uses PAG oil - they don't mix! They will gum up.
When in doubt, use ESTER oil - it's compatible with both.
Best to always flush it all out and start over.
The places where you attach the hoses to fill it - both HI and LO side are Schrader valves - what do you call them?
They look like tire valves but are slightly different.
How else do you add refrigerant?
Don't know about 2012 vehicles, but my 2011 Hyundai, both my Rubi's, my 95 Cherokee all all my other vehicles with AC use those valves.
BTW R-12 systems used mineral oil - R-134 uses PAG oil - they don't mix! They will gum up.
When in doubt, use ESTER oil - it's compatible with both.
Best to always flush it all out and start over.
08-01-2012, 02:17 PM
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Ken - I think you must be thinking of the SIGHT GLASS. We lost those a few years ago. They were handy!
In order of "probability" in this case.
Scharader valves, (because it was messed with recently,) O rings, worn hose or tube, compressor, then condenser, then lastly the evaporator.
Evaporators are pretty well protected - no rock damage like a condenser.
Dye works if you can see where it's leaking out - O rings, etc. It usually doesn't show on a compressor - it gets thrown around too much.
You can only see part of the condenser - never the area that leaks! LOL! They get gravel damage.
You can't see the evaporator unless you take it all apart!!!!!!
A cheap electronic detector only takes seconds.
Engine running = Run it along the lines, O rings etc.
Hold it in a vent to check the evaporator.
Shut off the engine, run it along the condenser - connections, the mounts and places where rocks and gravel hit it. The long probe lets you get it into places you can't see.
Run it around the front and the back of the compressor - either end can leak. Be sure to check where the alum lines connect to the compressor - there's O Rings in there. The clamp often gets loose.
Trying to do the condenser and compressor with the engine running the fan disperses it too much.
If you find an O ring leaking replace it - they are only a few cents. Tightening usually only fixes it temporarily.
If you cannot afford a $20-30 detector, most shops have them, they may charge $5.00 to find your leak. DON'T FALL FOR AN EVACUATION TEST - freon is leaking OUT, NOT IN! It will tell that you have a leak - but not WHERE.
Yes, lots of threads on here saying evaporator - but this is the only forum that says that - most say to diagnose it BEFORE BLINDLY REPLACING THINGS.
There are quite a few "armchair ghools" on here that love to lead people astray - but they have no knowledge or experience.
I don't claim to have much experience, I've only serviced/repaired a few hundred - but never a residential, commercial system, not even a refrigerator.
He He - I hate doing underdash work!
Fortunately evaporators seldom fail
Automotive AC is not a mysterious black art! Until you get to the computer driven climate controls. HIS and HERS separate climates, sunloading, weight factors, etc - I'll pass on those! LOL
He He - Sorry, I'm too old for that stuff - but they sure are nice!
In order of "probability" in this case.
Scharader valves, (because it was messed with recently,) O rings, worn hose or tube, compressor, then condenser, then lastly the evaporator.
Evaporators are pretty well protected - no rock damage like a condenser.
Dye works if you can see where it's leaking out - O rings, etc. It usually doesn't show on a compressor - it gets thrown around too much.
You can only see part of the condenser - never the area that leaks! LOL! They get gravel damage.
You can't see the evaporator unless you take it all apart!!!!!!
A cheap electronic detector only takes seconds.
Engine running = Run it along the lines, O rings etc.
Hold it in a vent to check the evaporator.
Shut off the engine, run it along the condenser - connections, the mounts and places where rocks and gravel hit it. The long probe lets you get it into places you can't see.
Run it around the front and the back of the compressor - either end can leak. Be sure to check where the alum lines connect to the compressor - there's O Rings in there. The clamp often gets loose.
Trying to do the condenser and compressor with the engine running the fan disperses it too much.
If you find an O ring leaking replace it - they are only a few cents. Tightening usually only fixes it temporarily.
If you cannot afford a $20-30 detector, most shops have them, they may charge $5.00 to find your leak. DON'T FALL FOR AN EVACUATION TEST - freon is leaking OUT, NOT IN! It will tell that you have a leak - but not WHERE.
Yes, lots of threads on here saying evaporator - but this is the only forum that says that - most say to diagnose it BEFORE BLINDLY REPLACING THINGS.
There are quite a few "armchair ghools" on here that love to lead people astray - but they have no knowledge or experience.
I don't claim to have much experience, I've only serviced/repaired a few hundred - but never a residential, commercial system, not even a refrigerator.
He He - I hate doing underdash work!
Fortunately evaporators seldom fail
Automotive AC is not a mysterious black art! Until you get to the computer driven climate controls. HIS and HERS separate climates, sunloading, weight factors, etc - I'll pass on those! LOL
He He - Sorry, I'm too old for that stuff - but they sure are nice!
Last edited by rrich; 08-01-2012 at 02:37 PM.
08-02-2012, 12:09 PM
#13
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RESIDENTIAL? Never did one.
The places where you attach the hoses to fill it - both HI and LO side are Schrader valves - what do you call them?
They look like tire valves but are slightly different.
How else do you add refrigerant?
Don't know about 2012 vehicles, but my 2011 Hyundai, both my Rubi's, my 95 Cherokee all all my other vehicles with AC use those valves.
BTW R-12 systems used mineral oil - R-134 uses PAG oil - they don't mix! They will gum up.
When in doubt, use ESTER oil - it's compatible with both.
Best to always flush it all out and start over.
The places where you attach the hoses to fill it - both HI and LO side are Schrader valves - what do you call them?
They look like tire valves but are slightly different.
How else do you add refrigerant?
Don't know about 2012 vehicles, but my 2011 Hyundai, both my Rubi's, my 95 Cherokee all all my other vehicles with AC use those valves.
BTW R-12 systems used mineral oil - R-134 uses PAG oil - they don't mix! They will gum up.
When in doubt, use ESTER oil - it's compatible with both.
Best to always flush it all out and start over.
these are schrader valves, and what i was referring to as best i can tell they are not called schrader"s anymore
http://www.google.com/search?q=pictu...w=1517&bih=741
and to youre comment of evap coils hardly ever failing ill give you that but it is a known failure item on our rigs. its not hard to figure out when you add refrigerant with dye than see that dye running out of the drain mixed with the condensate you can be pretty damn sure its the evap
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