Fracture

So I recently bought an 1996 XJ that was throwing codes for random misfires and 1-6 cylinder misfires, but ran fine. I decided to start with replacing the spark plugs with champion copper plugs, duralast gold wires, and a duralast gold distributor (for good measure). First time through, I did the TDC but didn't align the rotor in the distributor up, so the motor would crank, but not turn over. Re-aligned TDC and removed the distributor and aligned the rotor to where #1 plug lead went. Reassembled everything and it cranked up and ran fine. A few minutes after running, it threw the code P1391 which my scanner says "Interm loss of CMP or CKP" which it wasn't throwing before I replaced the parts.

Once that code came up, it ran a little lurchy down the road but smoothed out. Once I came to a stop to turn around, the motor died. Cranked back up, but I had to feather the gas. Got it back home in the driveway and now it turns over but won't hold an idle. What's the deal?

Did I perhaps not align TDC and #1 position on the rotor exactly right, and need to do it a 3rd time?

CCKen

See a response on the Other forum.

md21722

If the timing is wrong or the pick up faulty, it will run poorly and throw codes.

Does your new distributor have a pickup that is a flat disc shape piece of plastic that goes between the top of the base housing and the distributor cap? If so,

1. Distributor should have a slotted flange. The center of this flange should line up perfectly center with the threaded hole in the block for the hold down bracket
2. The top of the distributor shaft has a flat plastic disc and tone ring. The plastic has 4 holes 3/16" holes in it used to index the shaft to the housing. For 4.0L engines, the "left most one" when the holes are on the top and right side is the correct one. Drop a punch or other alignment tool through the hole into the mating hole in the distributor housing. This keeps the distributor indexed properly for install.
3. Engine should be on TDC (rotor when installed would point to 4-5 o'clock)
4. With oil pump drive/slotted end at 11 o'clock install the distributor. The housing will rotate as it is installed, the punch keeps the shaft indexed to the housing.
5. With the distributor fully seated into he block, the slotted flange on the hold down should line up perfectly center with the threaded hole in the block. If not, something is wrong.

Here is the best video I've seen showing the install:

md21722

What's the Other forum?

Cheddarnut

The original OP asked the same question on two threads. If you don't read the first answer, there is no reason to ask the question again. So CCKen was just directing him back to his original post with the advice already there.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ask...6/#post3088443

CCKen

Some of us have dual citizenship.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/d...ssues-3200865/

Fracture

Thanks for that CCKen. I re-did everything and it cranked up and idled fine with no CEL.

However, I took it for a drive down the road, and after about a mile or so, it began bucking roughly under acceleration. No CEL appeared, but ran like **** after a mile or so. Ugh.

Got it back home and cranked it back up and the idle fluctuated a little and died.. -___-