SuperRA

Every now and then on a gradual curve at low speeds I feel the limited slip differential grabbing. I recently (few months ago) topped it off after changing out the rear bearings and seals. And before that within a year or two, changed the oil from regular to synthetic. The noise didn't appear after anything in particular, in fact the first oil change was to rid of this same noise before. The oil I used was Mobil One (I forget the weight) which supposed to have the LSD additive in it already. Should I add some LSD additive?

87, 4.0L, 4x4, original D44 (~175k miles)

BlueRidgeMark

I have read that you need the specific Chrysler friction modifier, not just any FM. These things are picky. I have read of people using that with Mobil 1 and doing just fine. Haven't tried it myself.


By the way, I think you meant, "shuddering".

http://www.dictionary.com/browse/shuttering

http://www.dictionary.com/browse/shuddering

md21722

The LSD is Trac-Lok by Spicer.

You might try some additive in there but any should do.

I run Mobil Delvac 80w-140 in mine without the additive and haven't noticed any problems. Maybe you just need a fluid change.

Jeep Driver

Your clutch packs are worn.......thus your shudder.

Jeep Driver

BTW.........

Cameras shuTTer.........clutches shuDDer.

SuperRA

Yes, whoops I did mean shuddering.

I guess I'll try some additive. The fluid is less than a year old with not more than 5k mi. I wonder if the GM friction modifier will work. I went to a Toyota dealer for parts one time (for my Toyota) and they had told me to use the GM stuff and that they themselves use it in place of the Toyota stuff because it was "the best". Anyone hear this?

SuperRA

Ugh, I was hoping nobody would say this. =(

I did just hit the 180K mi mark. What is a typical life of clutch packs anyways?

Any harm in running worn clutch packs until I have time/money to replace them?

md21722

There is no harm in running them, worn clutch packs simply mean loss of LSD capability.

The clutch packs themselves are cheap ($30-50) its the labor that gets you because the carrier has to come out. And then you need to set it all back up with the proper backlash (8.25) or put it back together with the same shims (D35) and make sure backlash is good. No special tools are required to change the clutch packs in a D35 because you can guess you can re-use your shims, but it does take some creativity with threaded rod, a striking bar (the center pin works for this), and a rubber mallet, and some patience. I've done it twice in an 8.25 where you have to set the preload.

With a D44, you have to remove the axle shafts where the seals & axle bearings are set on the shaft, but the carrier is preloaded with shims like the D35.

It's one of those jobs where you start thinking of replacing the axle shaft seals, bearings, ... and the differential bearings if they look like their best days are behind them.

Radi

No. If the shuddering bothers you, adding more LS additive will quiet it down. That comes at the cost of having less limited slip function.