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Defeated by Valve Cover? Kind of...any ideas?

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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Default Defeated by Valve Cover? Kind of...any ideas?

Though hardly considered a mechanic, I have done work on my '96 Cherokee, e.g. changed diff fluids, rear main seal, oil pump, and other stuff that I thought would be characterized as "harder" than a valve cover gasket replacement.

So I got a lil' sassy yesterday and undertook replacing the valve cover gasket...or so I thought. Got the cover unbolted only to find that because of three hoses on the passenger side, near the radiator side of the valve cover, and a rail that runs along the driver side of the cover, I could not lift the cover high enuf at the radiator side to get the cover over the rail bolts on the block on the passenger side.

So my questions are:

Is there some magic geometry I need to employ to get this cover off without having to remove the radiator hose(s)? Or is all about "wiggle it just a lil' bit"?

Also, on the top of the valve cover, should I pull off the two hoses? And, if so, do I try to pry the the rubber grommet off the cover to remove or do I pull the hoses at the plastic elbows?


Attached are some pics that, hopefully will better describe the issue I describe above.

Rail on passenger side is bolted on block and bolts are about 1.5 inches tall so I need that much clearance on passenger side, BUT...



Valve cover flange on passenger side by radiator is under a large radiator hose, leaving little or no upward clearance...



Another view...

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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howdy,

sir, the upper rad hose will have to come off. I have done mine several times and while it is a pain in the butt, ya gotta take it off....not too much glycol will come out if jeep is cold.

thought I would brighten your day!


cpnwrench
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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oh yeah,

forgot about the evap hoses........ok...

detach those hoses at the "other" end of them.

(the side NOT connected at the valve cover)

then just turn the hose 90 degrees and it should lift right out of the grommet.(s)..
mine do anyway. and no you don't have to take the grommet out.


cpnwrench
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cpnwrench
howdy,

sir, the upper rad hose will have to come off. I have done mine several times and while it is a pain in the butt, ya gotta take it off....not too much glycol will come out if jeep is cold.

thought I would brighten your day!


cpnwrench
Brighten is a relative term, but thank you...
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cpnwrench
oh yeah,

forgot about the evap hoses........ok...

detach those hoses at the "other" end of them.

(the side NOT connected at the valve cover)

then just turn the hose 90 degrees and it should lift right out of the grommet.(s)..
mine do anyway. and no you don't have to take the grommet out.


cpnwrench
Thanks!
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Check your ground bolt @ the rear of the cover driver side has a metal braided cord attached, pretty large retaining nut. I just removed that nut and left the braided cord there(just dont forget to put that nut back on)

The radiator hose dose not need to be removed just hold the hose in place and scoot that retaining clamp back a few inches so the cover can get by.. I recently ran into this issue as well.. I will try to find my thread and post a link..
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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You really don't have to remove any of the hoses. It would make the gasket replacement easier but, I have done mine twice now without removing any of the coolant hoses. You do have to kinda muscle them out of the way of your ratchet, long extension and socket just enough to get to that front valvecover bolt but, it can be done.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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SAm,

now that you mention it, I do recall once being able to scoot the front lip of the valve cover off without the upper rad hose being taken off. an yeah, moving the clamp up the hose barely gave teh cover room to come off.

I will say though putting the cover back on with a NEW gasket is a whole lot easier with that hose off the thermostat housing!!!

just my opinion sir.

cpnwrench
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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Heres my recent adventure into this.. I got a ton of great help that you may find helpful.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/val...-gasket-75211/

My gasket was the felpro one and I just set it in place on the valve head and then just put the cover on with no issues.. mine is a 2001 so it may be different for the 96. Mine has the 2 bolts that hold the gasket inplace made install much easier..
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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i just did mine, so i'll give you some advice.

Loosen the clamp for the rad hoses and slide them up a ways - no need to remove them.

I would not try and remove the ccv elbows unless you plan on replacing the grommets - they tend to disintegrate/break/crack. Just disconnect the hoses.

That rail on the drivers side is the fuel rail. Don't touch it unless you want a big mess. You don't need to remove it to get the cover on/off.

use a THIN layer of black rtv on each side of the new gasket to hold it in place while you reinstall the valve cover

don't be afraid to use the bottom of your fist or a rubber mallet to knock it loose. I had to.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SamSissine2
Check your ground bolt @ the rear of the cover driver side has a metal braided cord attached, pretty large retaining nut. I just removed that nut and left the braided cord there(just dont forget to put that nut back on)

The radiator hose dose not need to be removed just hold the hose in place and scoot that retaining clamp back a few inches so the cover can get by.. I recently ran into this issue as well.. I will try to find my thread and post a link..
Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ
You really don't have to remove any of the hoses. It would make the gasket replacement easier but, I have done mine twice now without removing any of the coolant hoses. You do have to kinda muscle them out of the way of your ratchet, long extension and socket just enough to get to that front valvecover bolt but, it can be done.
Originally Posted by cpnwrench
SAm,

now that you mention it, I do recall once being able to scoot the front lip of the valve cover off without the upper rad hose being taken off. an yeah, moving the clamp up the hose barely gave teh cover room to come off.

I will say though putting the cover back on with a NEW gasket is a whole lot easier with that hose off the thermostat housing!!!

just my opinion sir.

cpnwrench
Originally Posted by SamSissine2
Heres my recent adventure into this.. I got a ton of great help that you may find helpful.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/val...-gasket-75211/

My gasket was the felpro one and I just set it in place on the valve head and then just put the cover on with no issues.. mine is a 2001 so it may be different for the 96. Mine has the 2 bolts that hold the gasket inplace made install much easier..
Originally Posted by dukie564
i just did mine, so i'll give you some advice.

Loosen the clamp for the rad hoses and slide them up a ways - no need to remove them.

I would not try and remove the ccv elbows unless you plan on replacing the grommets - they tend to disintegrate/break/crack. Just disconnect the hoses.

That rail on the drivers side is the fuel rail. Don't touch it unless you want a big mess. You don't need to remove it to get the cover on/off.

use a THIN layer of black rtv on each side of the new gasket to hold it in place while you reinstall the valve cover

don't be afraid to use the bottom of your fist or a rubber mallet to knock it loose. I had to.
WOW, pays to post threads at lunch hour. Lot of responses and lotsof great help. Thanks! I feel rejuvenated...now onto the break room...
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:20 AM
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BTW, got the best of that valve cover...so far... Thanks for your help!

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:26 AM
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Late to the party, but looking at the pictures, when the water pump was replaced, whoever did it did not swap the about 7" long metal extender pipe that should go where that heater core hose is attached to the pump I think.

If that metal pipe were there it would give you the clearance you need to remove the cover without fiddling with the hoses so much.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Evil4U
Late to the party, but looking at the pictures, when the water pump was replaced, whoever did it did not swap the about 7" long metal extender pipe that should go where that heater core hose is attached to the pump I think.

If that metal pipe were there it would give you the clearance you need to remove the cover without fiddling with the hoses so much.
Hmmm...will look into that.
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