Deathwobble after new tires
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 102
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From: Live Free or Die State
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Since the only thing that changed here is the tires.
I would swap them front to rear (temporarily) just to eliminate the tires that are on the front end as a possible cause.
You bought used tires, perhaps that's why the PO sold them/got rid of them in the first place.
I would swap them front to rear (temporarily) just to eliminate the tires that are on the front end as a possible cause.
You bought used tires, perhaps that's why the PO sold them/got rid of them in the first place.
I had a 95 with a very similar lift, running on 31s... Had the same DW, replaced the steering stabilizer, and it helped but never cured the problem... I had little faith in the aftermarket stabilizer, the "white no-name" wasnt nearly as good as the oem one...
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
From: Southwestern Indiana
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just FYI, replacing the stabilizer doesn't "fix" the problem, it just masked the symptoms.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
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From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
My '99 has no mods but I have experienced the condition you described. It wasn't as bad as the dreaded DW, as it was specific to 60 +/-5mph. The condition was more pronounced when running on wider tires. While swapping back to my skinnier (winter) tires last week I determined (actually found by accident) there was a bad hub/bearing in the right front. With the hub replaced, I restored the wider tires in exact last-used position (marked when stored) then drove for three days. No more 60mph wobble!
A couple of lessons learned: (1) Clean the greasy/mud wads out from the inner side of the rims, because they act like wheel balance weights, then re-balance any wheels where significant wads were found. (2) Your best tire treads should always be mounted to the rear wheels, to help keep your ***-end from passing you by. This rule is true regardless of whether a car has rear- or wrong-wheel drive. (3) Ply separation becomes more prevalent as tire pressures increase (jack-hammer sensation increases as tire temperature/pressure increases).
A couple of lessons learned: (1) Clean the greasy/mud wads out from the inner side of the rims, because they act like wheel balance weights, then re-balance any wheels where significant wads were found. (2) Your best tire treads should always be mounted to the rear wheels, to help keep your ***-end from passing you by. This rule is true regardless of whether a car has rear- or wrong-wheel drive. (3) Ply separation becomes more prevalent as tire pressures increase (jack-hammer sensation increases as tire temperature/pressure increases).
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
From: Southwestern Indiana
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And for what its worth, I'm siding with others here that think this isn't true DW, but a bad vibration caused by a bum tire or two.
Last edited by black_771; Nov 12, 2010 at 07:36 AM.
i would lift the front end and check the steering stabilizer, i replace alot of stabilizers on jeeps at work for wobble issues. usually wranglers. but most the time the tires are balanced fine and the alignment is fine. try to stick with OE, most aftermarket is cheap and not made in america.
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