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damage done , 1999 4.0

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Old 09-15-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
I've got my flak jacket and helmet ready for the impending incoming firestorm this is about to cause- but:

if an engine is 250+ degrees, and it's NOT blowing steam and/oil screaming, sometimes it's better to let it run- to keep the water moving and to keep oil from coking on hard parts.......

a water hose spraying through the radiator on a cooling system that is maintaining pressure (not boiling or flash steaming) will knock thirty to fifty degrees off the engine in a heartbeat. oil can handle the heat- most quality oils can handle several cycles of 250 before they start to degrade- most won't flash (or burn minus required o2 which is 'coking' and which leaves that wicked hard 'cajun crust' on hard parts) until nearing 400*....

that engine will get MUCH hotter as soon as it stops running and circulating oil and water. the coolant/water WILL flash (poof) like a steam machine if the cooling system isn't close and under pressure... the oil becomes stagnant and thickens on surfaces 250+*....

IF IF IF the cooling system is intact, spray water on the radiator for a few and then ****** the cap off and stick it in... the threat of hydra-locking isn't massive until you try to start it again after such a failure... IF the engine doesn't have bearings screaming this is an option.... as soon as it is under control- control being 220ish, THEN shut her down......

watch a nascar race (requires heavy drinking) and watch a delay... they'll stop the cars on the track and roll a cart out to them... that cart has everything needed to keep both oil and water circulating while they sit... after you turn off that key, THIS is when warping happens and shifting of mated surfaces occurs while metal expands/contracts at a different rates, causing gaskets to blow (other than cylinder pressure and catastrophic failure, this is when most head gaskets and/or water pump gaskets are compromised- during the 'sitting- first super heating and then slowly cooling phase)
Makes sense. Hens the Reason why you when you shut the engine off real quick to run into a store and come back out the temps are a little higher until you get coolant flowing again.
Old 09-15-2016, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RubenZ
Makes sense. Hens the Reason why you when you shut the engine off real quick to run into a store and come back out the temps are a little higher until you get coolant flowing again.
I hate that, running at a good temp, then you shut it off and the temp gets to an uncomfortable level... that XJ life... Just had to replace my head gasket, luckily this was cause by old age and NOT overheating, still a HUGE job to undertake and need to take head in to shop for some machine work... such a PITA!
Old 09-15-2016, 04:50 PM
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if it's a big concern or you want to absolutely maximize the life of a newer engine, you can always install an electric pump on a bypass off the heater core run- and use a thermostatic solenoid and normally ON electric relay (pump won't operate when acc on, but will with key in off position) to operate it.... set temp to just over stat's rating- say, 198~200, and it will continue to pump water through your engine when you kill engine, or until the temp drops below the rating...


there are two other tricks...

install an electric fan controller and probe, use an IR heat gun to determine the level in your radiator where the temperature hits the preset controllers temperature 'on' (usually three or four inches from top) and insert it.... when you kill your engine at operating temperature, convection will continue to move the fluid (slower pressure/volume, but movement all the same) until the temps cool (fan will run even with truck off... a matter of fact, it may not run at all when you're moving due to air being forced through at speed, but cycle on/off several times after you kill engine)...

third- sounds silly..... but...... it works... not as good as ^... I've done 'em ALL....

take a new 'stat, and after testing in boiling water several cycles and confirming you have a good one, take it out and drill a tiny hole (talking 3/16's or smaller) at noon, at four, and at eight o'clock on the 'stat's blade... this allows fluid to move more easily via convection after the engine is killed and still after the 'stat closes....

I wouldn't worry too much about this on an aging engine.... the fuse is already lit... on a new one that never knows it didn't exist? expect several tens of thousands of miles more out of it.
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