D44 Carrier bearing clamp
12-30-2012, 09:50 PM
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Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
D44 Carrier bearing clamp
I removed my carrier and I marked the clamp with a sharpie. (Big mistake.)
May marks did not last and I was over eager to remove the carrier. I think I remember the installation of the clamps. The clamps have smooth area for the bearing and a very small notch. I think this notch goes to the inside. I do see a "E" marked on the left clamp. and a sideways "E" marked on the right. Do my pictures look correct.
May marks did not last and I was over eager to remove the carrier. I think I remember the installation of the clamps. The clamps have smooth area for the bearing and a very small notch. I think this notch goes to the inside. I do see a "E" marked on the left clamp. and a sideways "E" marked on the right. Do my pictures look correct.
12-31-2012, 03:37 PM
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Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks. I guess I will live and learn. I have been doing some reading and the caps are sure important. I never knew.
Last edited by Lowes; 12-31-2012 at 04:51 PM.
12-31-2012, 08:57 PM
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Best way to tell is to drop the carrier and torque the clamp in place without a bearing.
Then, run the end of a somewhat fine wire (taking a small paperclip, straightening a hook on the end, and deburring the sheared edge with a fine file usually works) and feel for any "hitch" at the parting lines.
If present, remove the cap, reverse it, and retorque. Recheck.
The problem is that these caps cannot be installed backwards or switch - if you do, bearing life will suffer dramatically. Ditto engine bearing caps - screw them up, and you're doing the work again.
To replace the cap, the housing would have to go to the shop as well - the cap is torqued in place then honed to match.
Typically, if I have to drop a carrier, I'll check for marks. If there's nothing obvious, I'll take a punch and make one dot on the top of theleft cap (and a matching mark on the housing web,) and then make two does on the top of the right cap (and two matching marks on the housing web.)
Consistency ensures that:
- I do it.
- I do it every damned time (it's automatic for me, by now.)
- Since I do it the same way every time, it's "leaving a footprint" in there, so I can see if I've been there before.
For the engine - rod & main caps all get numbers punched into them before disassembly, and always on the driver's side of the engine (longitudinal mount) or front side (transverse mount) of the engine as mounted. I've been doing it that way (all cases) for about 30 years now - it's automatic, and it's a useful footprint.
Then, run the end of a somewhat fine wire (taking a small paperclip, straightening a hook on the end, and deburring the sheared edge with a fine file usually works) and feel for any "hitch" at the parting lines.
If present, remove the cap, reverse it, and retorque. Recheck.
The problem is that these caps cannot be installed backwards or switch - if you do, bearing life will suffer dramatically. Ditto engine bearing caps - screw them up, and you're doing the work again.
To replace the cap, the housing would have to go to the shop as well - the cap is torqued in place then honed to match.
Typically, if I have to drop a carrier, I'll check for marks. If there's nothing obvious, I'll take a punch and make one dot on the top of theleft cap (and a matching mark on the housing web,) and then make two does on the top of the right cap (and two matching marks on the housing web.)
Consistency ensures that:
- I do it.
- I do it every damned time (it's automatic for me, by now.)
- Since I do it the same way every time, it's "leaving a footprint" in there, so I can see if I've been there before.
For the engine - rod & main caps all get numbers punched into them before disassembly, and always on the driver's side of the engine (longitudinal mount) or front side (transverse mount) of the engine as mounted. I've been doing it that way (all cases) for about 30 years now - it's automatic, and it's a useful footprint.
01-01-2013, 08:33 PM
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Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Best way to tell is to drop the carrier and torque the clamp in place without a bearing.
Then, run the end of a somewhat fine wire (taking a small paperclip, straightening a hook on the end, and deburring the sheared edge with a fine file usually works) and feel for any "hitch" at the parting lines.
If present, remove the cap, reverse it, and retorque. Recheck.
The problem is that these caps cannot be installed backwards or switch - if you do, bearing life will suffer dramatically. Ditto engine bearing caps - screw them up, and you're doing the work again.
To replace the cap, the housing would have to go to the shop as well - the cap is torqued in place then honed to match.
Typically, if I have to drop a carrier, I'll check for marks. If there's nothing obvious, I'll take a punch and make one dot on the top of theleft cap (and a matching mark on the housing web,) and then make two does on the top of the right cap (and two matching marks on the housing web.)
Consistency ensures that:
- I do it.
- I do it every damned time (it's automatic for me, by now.)
- Since I do it the same way every time, it's "leaving a footprint" in there, so I can see if I've been there before.
For the engine - rod & main caps all get numbers punched into them before disassembly, and always on the driver's side of the engine (longitudinal mount) or front side (transverse mount) of the engine as mounted. I've been doing it that way (all cases) for about 30 years now - it's automatic, and it's a useful footprint.
Then, run the end of a somewhat fine wire (taking a small paperclip, straightening a hook on the end, and deburring the sheared edge with a fine file usually works) and feel for any "hitch" at the parting lines.
If present, remove the cap, reverse it, and retorque. Recheck.
The problem is that these caps cannot be installed backwards or switch - if you do, bearing life will suffer dramatically. Ditto engine bearing caps - screw them up, and you're doing the work again.
To replace the cap, the housing would have to go to the shop as well - the cap is torqued in place then honed to match.
Typically, if I have to drop a carrier, I'll check for marks. If there's nothing obvious, I'll take a punch and make one dot on the top of theleft cap (and a matching mark on the housing web,) and then make two does on the top of the right cap (and two matching marks on the housing web.)
Consistency ensures that:
- I do it.
- I do it every damned time (it's automatic for me, by now.)
- Since I do it the same way every time, it's "leaving a footprint" in there, so I can see if I've been there before.
For the engine - rod & main caps all get numbers punched into them before disassembly, and always on the driver's side of the engine (longitudinal mount) or front side (transverse mount) of the engine as mounted. I've been doing it that way (all cases) for about 30 years now - it's automatic, and it's a useful footprint.
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