I am getting some conflicting information concerning the torque amount for the pinion yoke shaft.
I have a '97 XJ, high pinion, and I replaced the yoke seal.

I did not mark the location of the nut in relation to the yoke or pinion, but in this tech writeup, it just says to get it good and tight (they did also say to mark the location)

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/xj...acement-43429/

So, based on this information, I used an impact as described, but it wasn't tight enough, I drove about 2 miles on it while it was humming/vibrating, I then pulled it back into the garage and torqued it to 210 like the Haynes manual specifies.

1. Did I do any major damage by driving on it while it wasn't tight enough?
2. Is 210 ft/lb going to be good?

It doesn't make any noise now, but it sure did when it was loose.. I originally thought that it was caused by my U-joint install, and I thought that my axle shafts were binding.

I do tend to learn my lessons the hard, dirty, expensive, bloody way....

 

I would also like to know this cause I broke one of the deals off mine so I gotta replace it

 

210 is the torque and it should not ruin it best thing to do is to take off the cover and check for shavings if no shavings it will be good

 

thanks

 

Thanks

 

I don't recall the specs, but Dana axles generally use "crush sleeves" - the torque spec is a beginning, and you end up torquing until you get a given preload value on the bearings.

I'd have to dig up Dana TSMs to get a valid spec for it, but you'll end up needing a 1/2" drive torque wrench (for the pinion yoke nut,) a breaker bar (for additional tightening,) and a 1/4" drive torque wrench (beam type or gage type, for measuring bearing preload.)

The one time I didn't follow this - to change a pinion seal on a D35 - I ended up having to go through and do pinion bearings in a week...

 

I'm just replacing the yoke itself... if I torque it down to spec should I have and problems ? Or would it be easier to just replace my Dana 30... scrap yard I go to is getting a 97 in this weekend that has been wrecked I'm thinking bout buying for the motor and tranny

 

Please dont tell me you use a cheater on a totque wrench

And it wont have any problems when you put a new yoke on and i dont believe there is a crush sleeve in yhe front im pretty sure there shims so they need the right torque and i would get the jeep and use it for parts like axle shafts on trails etc

 

I don't have a cheater just a big braker bar and impact if that doesn't cut it

 

My torque wrench is bout 2.5 feet long I can put the leverage on it I need... anything over that I just use my braker bar

 

Ya you will be fine im just sayin torqueing with a cheater is not very accurate

 

I most certainly do not! After all, I know better (I may take shortcuts on a few things; but they're shortcuts borne of practise, experience, and knowledge - and they work. A cheater bar on a torque wrench will never be one of them...)

I'd have to make sure, but I want to recall that there's a crush sleeve in there. I'm sure that you have to reset preload on the bearings, and you have to come up to it - not pass it and come down (that screws things up worse. Which is why I'll never use an impact to put something together.)

 

They are shims in the diagrahm

 

yep no crush sleeve in a d30 but they recommend you get a new nut because it is a metal lock nut once you use it it rounds itself out and in theory doesnt stay torqued red locktite is said to do the trick if you cant get a new nut

 

could throw off the preload and alignment of the ring and pinion if you use a impact. buy a torque wrench, a good one at that. Youll use it many times.