As I've alluded to in other posts, I've stripped out one nutsert in the frame for my crossmember mount. I've spent some time combing the forum and can not settle on a reasonable solution. Here are the options I see:

- Some folks in the modified tech forum suggest re-tapping to 7/16-14 without drilling anything out. Basically just cross thread it and dig into new meat on the nutsert.
- Helicoil. But I don't know if the nutsert is deep enough for this to be a good option.
- Drill and tap up to 1/2".
- Excavate and surgery on the nut, cut open the frame. Since the weld is not loose (yet) I think re-threading somehow will be best.

Any suggestions on perhaps the best way forward?

Since I live in the rust-free desert and am generally very cautious with old bolts...this is the first stripped thread I've had to deal with. That probably makes me some terrible elitist.

Thanks!

 

I am interested in the responses you get.
I have the same issue.

 

I broke three out of the four of those. A couple of them the captive nut broke off and the other I broke the stud off inside the nut. I ended up removing the front seats and carpet to drill holes in the floor allowing me to drop new bolts in from the top. This works great but is difficult because any time I need to remove the crossmember the seats have to come out.

I recommend attempting to tap them to a bigger before any real surgery.

 

Do you have access to a welder?

 

I *might* have access to a welder. Currently no, but I've got buddies with welders.

 

if tapping doesn't work there's a few routes to go involving welding.

You could use a hole saw to cut a large diameter hole in the bottom of the unibody rail with the nut in the center. Weld a new nut to the piece you cut out then weld that piece back in.

 

Read my mind, LOL

I would first try to tap it. First with the right size tap, then if that doesn't work, drill to the next size up and tap that. Take your time, be patient. Lots of cutting oil and clean the tap often, and you should be good to go. I would only use the welding technique as a last resort.

 

Seems like best course of action is to chase the M10 threads and see if that works. If that doesn't work, go a size up. Figured out why you shouldn't drill out the M10 before tapping 7/16: the major diameter of internal M10 threads are just a hair larger than drill size U for 7/16" threads. If that doesn't work, then start considering surgery.

Thanks folks!

 

Make sure you wear safety goggles and a mask when tapping above your face. Metal shards in your eyes and mouth suck. Especially when they come out the back end.

 

He'll, you might even want to put a fan next to you to try n blow it away?

 

Yes sir! Thanks for the safety reminder. I had goggles on - had the mask but forgot to put it on... Don't think I ate anything...if I did I never knew it.

Chasing worked ok - but there was no meat left on the threads. Tapped up to 7/16 and all is well.

 

Nice!

 

CURSES! One of the new transmission mount studs sheared off!

Now I have to pull the crossmember again and put in another new mount...

 

OmG

 

A few days have passed and I can laugh about it now
Waiting on a new mount to come in.

Decidedly not my fault this time. Torque spec is 33 ft lbs. I was initially torquing things to 28 ft lbs and it sheared before even hitting 28 ft lbs. So I'm calling defective metallurgy on a bad part.

Fingers crossed everything buttons up nicely tomorrow lol