[QUOTE=exasemech;3735176]My guess (based on what it looks like and has be something that could
I've seen worse bearings, at least it didn't spin. But a ton of embedded junk....ever change the oil? What does the crank journal look like?[/QUOT

ive done two oil changes so far and driving in total 30 mins since I bought it, but it had been sitting alot recent years also

this is the main journal from the same one, haven’t cleaned anything up yet

 

If they all look like that, and you cant catch a fingernail on anything, I think it would be Ok to slap bearings into it. Ive done worse.

 

Yeah, check the rest of the rod bearings,/journals.

DON'T MIX UP THE CAPS... THEY NEED TO GO BACK ON THE ROD THEY CAME OFF OF!!!!!!

And if you decide you want to try replacing the bearing shells you need to determine if they are standard size or if the journals have been turned so you need oversized bearings. The shells should be marked.

 

ok!
I guess what you guys are suggesting is a to put new rod bearings in and out it together again? After plastigauge that is.

I assume if the bearing is worn down to the copper it’s toast right?

 

Yes

I dont think you have to worry about plastigauge, you will definitely have loose clearances. Rods are easy. Just make sure you get the right size bearings, It will be marked on the back of them. I would do the mains too if youre brave enough, You have to spin them into place. Lots of assembly lube, make sure everything is super clean, and slap it back together.
Its a gamble, but bearings are cheap (from Rockauto), and IMO I think it will be fine. Worst case it blows up and youll be back to square 1.

 

That pair of shells in your photo, between the copper and the junk in the other shell , is toast. Are the other 5 as bad or worse, who knows. Are they the cause of the knock, who knows.

I suspect when you look at the others you are going to find something worse

 

Bearing knock...any bearing...is caused by the gap between the bearing and the rotating surface, not scratches or roughness. The first sign is a drastic loss of oil pressure due to the gap. If you don't have the oil pressure loss ...probably no excessive gap and not the cause of your knocking. From your earlier statements...plastigauge is a simple measuring tool where a plastic spagetti rod is squished between the bearing and rotating surface ( without rotating) the increase in squished dia as read on the chart on the carton the plastigauge came in tells you the gap between the 2 parts. There are many different size gap tolerances so you might need a couple of different sizes to fine tune. None of your bearing pictures look "trashed"

 

Ok thanks so much for your guidance!

reg oil pressure I haven’t tested it properly, just looked at the gauge on the dash. But I understand that is not accurate. The jeep won’t idle anymore without me giving it gas, I guess it all ties together.

do you recommend to do the RMS while I’m there, or should I leave it if it’s not broken/leaking?

I also read that wrist pins could potentially be a problem-any tips on how to check those?

Any other tips on what to look out for while the oil pan is off is highly appreciated. First time for me!

 

Couple things in no particular order.
1) if it's not leaking I wouldn't mess with the rear seal,too many horror stories where people nick the crank journal getting the top half of the seal out. If that happens you have a permanent leak. You have enough problems

2) I didn't listen to your video until now; they are usually a waste of time... come on, the poster is there, they are the one who can get their head in there with a stethoscope. In any case doesn't sound like rod knock to me, not a deep enough knock but I'm listening to it on my phone, you're there In any case when you get the thing running if it's still making the noise disconnect one plug wire at a time ; if it's only certain cylinders you should be able to tell which one is the problem when you change the load on it
3) don't know which transmission you have but if auto look for flex plate cracks/ loose bolts

4) I wouldn't obsess about wrist pins at this point. No easy way to check...or fix..them

 

Noted!

Oil pressure seems to have gotten higher on the gauge (havent got any proper tester yet) when the knock has become worse. I read somewhere that this can happen early in a rod bearing failure and that pressure will drop soon after?

Lastly it seems to be a lot of carbon and sludge built up from sitting a lot recent years.
If it´s not the bearings I´m hoping that could be the problem.

 

Your information re the stick test is a lot more useful than the video ever was ...

Take a look at the rest of the rod bearings and go from there

(Don't forget you'll need a torque wrench to put the rod caps back on)

 

I need some help identifying sizes before ordering new bearings;
Rod bearings all say
8196697
112
12-9 X
other side says A-6, A-2 etc

Main bearing says
12-89 (date I assume)
3235487
F-66

thrust bearing;
3235486
F-66
001 J 2-0

What do I make out of this? 001 is undersize? Does that mean that it´s been apart before?
I look in the FSM that said something about colour codes, but couldnt make out where to find them?

 

Hmm I dont see that in the manual, but they list them as a service package and usually the individual numbers are different than the package.
Pretty sure those are original bearings so I would guess evertyhing is standard size except maybe the thrust bearing.
Some pics of the numbers would be helpful
This is what a modern aftermarket bearing part number would look like.

 

thanks.
yes sorry I think I misread the plastigage fitting chart for something actually referencing the size on the actual bearing.

some pics here, I also think everything is factory-just want to double check

 

Youre getting over my head now. AFAIK those were bearings for factory/dealer initial build and you cant get them aftermarket, you are stuck with the regular sizes like STD, .010, .020, etc. You can look at the code on the block by the distributor and try to decode it, or measure with a micrometer. Im thinking they are all standard except the thrust but I have no idea.