(Bump) Come on guys, can i get an answer?

 

Same reason some camp cooks use baking powder and baking soda in the same batch of biscuits. It really isn't a big deal doing the work yourself if you can read a manual and a micrometer, have the required tools, and ***** to fix it yourself. The big deal is getting the problem sorted out in the first place. The fixes are easy once you know whats wrong...well except for the parts bill.

 

Ok, thanks for the response

 

Some mechanics, myself included, believe an engine should be built back to new specs if the crank is removed from the block and the engine is out of the vehicle. It is not much additional work and the result is a far superior product over the "band-aid" approach. After re-reading my previous reply it became apparent it could be taken the wrong way. My bad.

Walter

 

edit: after rereading the original post, i realized you were already doing what i was suggesting

 

OK......so not much more work, bud definitely more $$$. Well, if I have to

 

Definitely more $$$, but cheaper than a note. This is my first Jeep and am learning a lot reading the posts. The 4 liter engines seem tough if properly maintained, not withstanding the cracked head legacy. They also appear to be easy to work on. Cam bearings are an item that would be difficult to measure in place, unlike main and rod bearings. New cam, bearings, lifters, yes...could get pricey. If the cam bearings are an area where the oil pressure is going away though, it would seem worth the extra expense rather than replacing the bearings you could measure and then discovering the additional problem. Good luck with the project.

Walter

 

Ok, so the CW head just came in, and i have the head bolts, all necessary gaskets, all fluids, and a new thermostat (following a suggestion, as idk why). Is there ANYTHING else i need to provide before i take the jeep to the shop?

 

There is always something it seems. You know how when you start one of those small projects at the house you think will be a walk in the park and it takes all day and 5 trips to the hardware store? Working on cars can be like that. Good choice replacing the t-stat. I think if I had the head off mine I would flip for a new water pump as well. If it is overheating that can't be good for bushings and seals.

I hope it works out well for you.

 

Well, its not overheating but i may spring for a new water pump if it is feasible. I was not aware that you needed to do a lot to change that. Thanks

 

Not an necessity by any stretch of the imagination. They do go south though. if I were going to replace parts to the extent you are and I could afford it a new water pump would be installed as long as the engine were that far down.

 

when the bearings start to go, which ones will go first? or will they go @ the same time?

 

I'm told cam bearing usually go first- but I couldn't tell you why.

 

In my experience, Rod bearings usually go first with coolant soaked oil. Like said before, if oil pressure is 13psi or higher at idle when at full temperature, and there are no mysterous knocks, then I wouldnt worry about any stinkin bearings.

 

I wasn't going to, but last friday i changed my oil and (like an idiot) put in 10w-40......but it WASN'T HIGH MILEAGE, and i had to go Drill (45 mi one way all interstate) three days......after the first day, my gauge finally took the plunge to 0 psi. Now whenever i get to oper. temp, it bottoms out or threatens to....but the head is going on thursday, so oh well