Converter clearance issue after bell housing and flexplate replacement
Hi all, this is my first forum post. I have a 96 XJ 4.0. I had a cracked flexplate AND bell housing. I just replaced both and have the transmission bolted to the engine but I just checked the converter-flexplate clearance and it is about 1/4”-5/16”. I’ve read that the correct clearance is 1/8”-3/16”. I couldn’t get a super accurate reading because of the tight space but another observation is that the converter bolts engage maybe one thread before they touch the flex plate. 2 questions: does it need shims and how can I put shims in there with there being no access to the backside of the flex plate with the trans in place? Thanks!!
Edit: the replacement flexplate and bell housing are oem ( ordered online so not sure what exactly they came off of) but visually they are identical except for the balance holes in the flexplate
Edit: the replacement flexplate and bell housing are oem ( ordered online so not sure what exactly they came off of) but visually they are identical except for the balance holes in the flexplate
after checking where I saw that, it seems to be a general rule of thumb that google brought up for the aw4. I also saw it on “shimming a torque converter” videos. However in the aw4 service manual it says that the distance from the face of the bell housing to the converter pad should be 16.5mm. I got roughly 4mm over that.
Seasoned Member


Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 83
From: Pittsburgh
Year: 1999, 1996X3, 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Done my fair share of replacing and removing these transmissions and never measured putting them back in, never had to use shims. Just made sure the converter was fully seated onto the transmission, and the bell housing was mated nicely to the engine. Lined up the flexplate to the converter, turned the bolts down but not full torque till all four were seated. The tq will pull towards the flexplate when tightening.
Done my fair share of replacing and removing these transmissions and never measured putting them back in, never had to use shims. Just made sure the converter was fully seated onto the transmission, and the bell housing was mated nicely to the engine. Lined up the flexplate to the converter, turned the bolts down but not full torque till all four were seated. The tq will pull towards the flexplate when tightening.
CF Veteran


Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 407
From: Long Island, New York
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 98 stroked 4.7
This is what I did way back when...If I remember the bolt holes in flexplate to the TC are not "holes" but ovals or slots. I got them all started(4) but still loose. I then turned the motor by main crank damper bolt - 3/4 socket....clockwise slightly until the bolts bottomed out on the flexplate slots. Then i snugged and torqued them. Since the motor only turns clockwise i figured if the bolts were up against the slot "stops" would have less chance of slipping or loosening as compared to middle of slot.. might not actually help anything but mine have been secure for over 100K.
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