Control arm bushing purchasing
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Control arm bushing purchasing
Hello. I'm going to be changing the bushings on my four control arms (2000 jeep xj). However I'm a little confused as to what bushings I will need for replacement. I'm looking at the rubber ones from quadratec. If anyone could verify if these are the correct or wrong ones I need, I would greatly appreciate it. Or should I just go to the dealer? But I'm assuming their prices will be much higher.
Upper control arm -
56015.103 - top of axle X2
56015.100 - rear end X2
lower control arm -
56015.102 - is this for all 4 spots? X4?
52449.1066 - or this one for all 4? X4??
Upper control arm -
56015.103 - top of axle X2
56015.100 - rear end X2
lower control arm -
56015.102 - is this for all 4 spots? X4?
52449.1066 - or this one for all 4? X4??
#2
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Year: 2001
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Engine: I-6
Hello. I'm going to be changing the bushings on my four control arms (2000 jeep xj). However I'm a little confused as to what bushings I will need for replacement. I'm looking at the rubber ones from quadratec. If anyone could verify if these are the correct or wrong ones I need, I would greatly appreciate it. Or should I just go to the dealer? But I'm assuming their prices will be much higher.
Upper control arm -
56015.103 - top of axle X2
56015.100 - rear end X2
lower control arm -
56015.102 - is this for all 4 spots? X4?
52449.1066 - or this one for all 4? X4??
Upper control arm -
56015.103 - top of axle X2
56015.100 - rear end X2
lower control arm -
56015.102 - is this for all 4 spots? X4?
52449.1066 - or this one for all 4? X4??
#3
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
You're right that you'll have to get 2 additional bushings for the upper control arm axle mounts. Replacing bushings can be quite the task. Your life would be a lotttt easier to just get new arms. If you look in the right places (like rockauto.com if you're looking for OEM replacements) it won't be much more expensive. Either way (whether getting OEM or aftermarket bushings or arms) don't shop at Quadratec. They're way overpriced
#5
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The arms being stamped steel are a huge pain in the backside sometimes. The time it takes getting them pressed out and back in you could just about bolt new stock type arms back in call it a day. Amazon, Rock Auto, Parts geek all sell the stock stuff dirt cheap. I look at this way R&R time ,driving someplace to either use a press or drop them off to be pressed in and out.
If you have a press and time thats a whole nother deal then.
If you have a press and time thats a whole nother deal then.
Last edited by Aljay; 04-04-2013 at 06:27 PM.
#6
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Well I took your guys advice and just bought some new arms. I ran into something that I'm curious about though. I torqued both the bolts on lca driver side to 85 ft/lb and this control arm has no play whatsoever. Is it normal for new bushings to cause it to be super tight. My old bushings weren't too bad but they had some slight play (side to side) in it for the thing to move around only a little. I just don't want to ruin a new bushing because I didn't/did do something minor.
Also..... THESE BOLTS ARE DIFFICULT. I had to get roughly 3 feet of breaker bar to get the two on the drivers side. And that was with maximum vein popping, eye bulging force. I'm not weak but working on this on the ground without much room for leverage, in less than desirable positions, should be included into the Olympics or "strongest man in the world" competitions. Gonna torch the passenger side bolts for sure, don't have fuel lines above passenger side.. woohoo! Or does anyone have a better idea? Can't fit my impact on the nuts. Man I wish I had a lift that I could use.
Oh and thanks for suggesting rockauto.com, has good prices there. The moog arms are pretty cheap there.
Also..... THESE BOLTS ARE DIFFICULT. I had to get roughly 3 feet of breaker bar to get the two on the drivers side. And that was with maximum vein popping, eye bulging force. I'm not weak but working on this on the ground without much room for leverage, in less than desirable positions, should be included into the Olympics or "strongest man in the world" competitions. Gonna torch the passenger side bolts for sure, don't have fuel lines above passenger side.. woohoo! Or does anyone have a better idea? Can't fit my impact on the nuts. Man I wish I had a lift that I could use.
Oh and thanks for suggesting rockauto.com, has good prices there. The moog arms are pretty cheap there.
Last edited by Dfread; 04-13-2013 at 12:45 PM.
#7
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Year: 1994 xj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i just put in a master bushing kit from energy suspention on my 93xj with 133,xxxmiles. so here are my thoughts. tools i used : 20ton press, hand torch, 4ft rebar with a socket welded on end,other mis tools. the press would not work without the torch, i was bending the arms, put a socket inside the arm to stop the bending .DO NOT remove all the arms , remove one press in new bushings reinstall... the hardest bushings were ontop of the axle (heat them) . had i known the pita i would have bought new arms
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Don't torque the control arm bolts down until the weight of the vehicle is on the tires, you will ruin the bushings by torquing them with the wheels hanging.
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