Yeah, I wasn't clear, what I meant was when I would remove the hose that was connected to the coolant when I was charging it all the pressure would just leak back out from the low side valve. I replaced the valve and it holds pressure now, but the clutch won't engage. I filled it up to 55 PSI with the compressor not engaging and didn't have any luck with the exception of one very brief moment (maybe 1-2 seconds) where the compressor clutch engaged.

I took it to Firestone (only $40 for them to check it out) and of course they gave me a quote for $1000 to fix the AC. I'm clearly not paying that, but now I'm at least a little more inclined to tinker with it myself since I don't have much to lose.

They said there was power to the compressor but that the clutch was likely bad. Maybe they're right, but I'm not paying $1000 to fix the AC and I really doubt I have the technical expertise to do the compressor myself. I guess I'll just have to hope the power windows hold out!

Thanks for all your help, guys!

 

If I'm understanding correctly, the system has been opened and exposed to air/moisture, since the valve was removed/replaced, no?

Doing a a/c overhaul on the XJ is not too bad/difficult. The kiddo and I did ours coming up 2 years ago for about $600 in parts and having a pro pull a vacuum and recharge with refrigerant. Still have 34F at the vents........nice.

 

There may be life in this ol' girl yet! So I went out a little bit ago to tinker with it some more, and here's what it was doing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ufl8poI0qRQ

This is the most life I've seen out of the clutch since I started messing with it (I'd never actually seen it engage before). It quit cycling like this after about 2 or 3 minutes (it just quit engaging all together again). A lot of places I've read say to hit it with more pressure when it's cycling like this, but the guy at Firestone said he put 3Kgs in it, which seems way higher than what it requires.

Any ideas how I should proceed with this new development?

 

Do u notice any oily residue on a/c components under the hood? It could be leaking refrigerant at the evap.

 

Wouldn't think there's much difference between '01 and '98 a/c.......seems like Firestone put 5X as much refrigerant in as called for by the factory (.567kg).

 

Geez - you must not want it to work!

Do as I said in post #12 - it's not difficult!

That tests the clutch, and tests the system to see if it will work.

We already know the computer is getting the message - the R's raise like they should. So it's a control system problem.
The entire AC system is as simple as they come.

Don't be led astray by people that don't know - including Firestone.

Water in the system WILL NOT CAUSE IT NOT TO ENGAGE!

Too much refrigerant will not prevent the clutch from engaging.

Next step is check the wiring to/from the relay, but first do as my #12 post said. Then I'll guide you through that - but it's probably not needed.

Or - keep it like it is.

 

Wouldn't 20 ozs (vs 3 12 oz cans) be closer to the factory recommendation? Seems like the compressor clutch engages well in the video, no?

 

If it's overfull the compressor will still kick on. It just won't get as cold as it could - not enough room for expansion.

But Firestone lied to him about it costing $1000, you cannot count on anything they say - not even how much they put in. Once we get the compressor operating, we can address how much is in it.

One step at a time!

I suspect I know what's wrong already - a fairly common problem. Those tests will confirm it.

But if he doesn't want to do them, -- I can't help that!

 

I definitely am going to jump the clutch from the battery and see if the compressor will engage, I actually just have to find something to make the jump with! It's Easter weekend so my time with the Jeep has been somewhat limited and I don't have any spare wire laying around so I'm just waiting until tomorrow and I'll grab a little bit of wire from the hardware store and I'll report back! As I mentioned earlier, I've never done any electrical work on a car before so I want to make sure I'm putting the wire in the right place.

As for that video with the clutch engaging, that one minute was the only time I've seen it engage in about 3 total hours so far of trying to get it to cut on.

 

If I'm understanding the video correct, the compressor seems to be working fine. When the compressor quits, try jumping the low pressure switch to see if it engages again. If it does, seems like the compressor is ok but leaking refrigerant (pressure drop) is the problem and shutting off the compressor. The valve leak has been fixed, right?

 

The clutch can have a problem - the coil could be intermittant. That's why the jumpering test (any old wire) - if it keeps running, it's OK.

I suspect the pressure switch itself is defective - not unusual.
That's why shorting the terminals in the connector test (paper clip) - if it runs then, suspect the switch.

To verify it's the switch before blindly replacing it, measure across the terminals of the switch with an Ohmmeter, (Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Wal-Mart etc have cheap ones $5?) it should show shorted (On) if there's really a charge in the system. His pressure gauge will show that.

The pressure switch should close (short) between 15 and 20 lbs in the system, engine off.

Once it's able to work, then the pressure gauge will tell us how the system is when running, and the meat thermometer in the vent will guide us as to add more or bleed some out.

Unfortunately if the pressure switch needs to be replaced, all the refrigerant will be lost, unless he has a way of capturing it.

It's not rocket science. The AC system is one of the simplest ever used - imagine if it was a computer controlled climate control with individualized outputs for the different passengers. THAT'S A NIGHTMARE! But even then, step by step it's not too bad.

$1000 is a rip-off! Firestone is at it again - they were shut down and fined a few years ago for things like that. My wife had a problem with them Friday - she had a low tire - the car is almost new, tires are almost new. They told her she needed 4 new tires, and it was illegal to let her drive on bad tires - they'd have to call the cops if she didn't buy new ones.
She called me - I told her to call the cops and hand him the phone! The guy ran inside and hid from her.

I've already reported it to Consumer affairs.
The tire shop across the street fixed the tiny nail in the tire.

But - he has to do what he's told to do IF he wants it fixed!

 

I have to agree with you rrich. The advice that you are giving is the best that I have read for him. Now he just has to listen to it and do it.

 

Kinda depends on what a shop means when they say will "fix" for $1000.....what new parts, how many hrs labor, detailed explanation of what they will do, etc. IIRC, (coming up 2 years ago), seems like the kiddo and I got quotes from various shops in TX & OK that ranged from $1200 to $1500. Those quotes included a new compressor, accumulator/dryer, rubber hose assembly/manifold, liquid line/orifice tube, hi & lo switches, flushing the evap and cond, pull a vacuum and recharge. For about $600 we bought the parts, did the labor ourselves (and added oil) and took it to a pro for the vacuum/recharge.

 

""""""Those quotes included a new compressor, accumulator/dryer, rubber hose assembly/manifold, liquid line/orifice tube, hi & lo switches, flushing the evap and cond, pull a vacuum and recharge"""""
Looks like they "saw you coming!"

What are the odds EVERYTHING failed at the same time?
About the same chance lightening will hit you 3 times in the same day?

A little diagnosis mixed with logic isn't difficult.

The OP's problem is simple, he just has to do it!

 

After 12 years, our original compressor decided to turn into shrapnel internally.

Every a/c article I read on the subject and on the Internet said the dryer and orifice tube were filters, among other things, and should always be replaced when the compressor is replaced. Seems logical. Since the rubber hoses/manifold assembly were also 12 years old, seemed logical to replace those also.

The articles I read, prior to doing our a/c overhaul, strongly recommended flushing the evap and cond as did the shops that we got quotes from. Again, that also seems logical....why would u want to take a chance of old compressor shrapnel, left in the system, ruining a new compressor. The recommendations from the shops we got quotes from seemed to fall right in line with "how to" a/c articles on the Internet and those articles didn't have any skin in the game like a shop would.

Probably spent less than $100 more than necessary to do a proper and thorough a/c overhaul, so I guess the parts store "saw us coming". LOL Oh, did I mention 2 years later it runs smooth and quiet and still makes 34F at the vent.....burrrrr.