Air filter is really clean, replaced a few months ago. No rpm gauge, but by using the theumb throttle under the hood I didnt see any leaks jump at me, although I wasnt looking either. The back of the valve cover is cruddy, but is looks like old oil, and since Im losing a quart a day it doesnt have time to turn black.

I agree the plugs indicate overheating. I have a 86 XJ with sensors and full gauges, but it has a V6, not the 4.0. Will it still work with the fittings from the 2.8???

And yes, Im pretty sure Im checking the oil properly, although at the rate the oil disappears Im wondering if I have the right length dipstick.

 

Ive checked under the oil cap and even a hour after parked smoke/vapour comes out. I do have a new head gasket, but I need to hold out until I can get time off this winter to replace it. Planning a complete overhaul then, but need to make it better for the time being.

 

I believe the instrument panels will interchange. You'll need to look it up in a parts catalog or FSM to be sure.
Clean everything up to better inspect for the oil leak. If its from the valve cover then it usually doesn't make it all the way to the rear of the veh.
If there's oil from the engine all the way to the back of the veh, then I would suspect the rear main seal. For it not to be dripping I would think it has to be getting spread out very fine. Again, clean it up so you can see better.

 

Gonna try and swap gauges tomorrow, and possibly flush the coolant system to try and curb my overheating issue that I may or may not have. The rear main area is dirty, but not quart a week dirty.

Sucks to live in an isolated area, any part I need takes at least 1 week to get here, if Im lucky.

Would slight overheating kill plugs so quickly???

And to answer a previous question, I only drive the Jeep about 60 miles a day, all between 30-50mph.

 

doing the math with the info u given so far, that would equal about 30 hours of running hot in a two week period. i do believe that would be enough time.
the white plugs are from lean burn. so is the overheating causing a lean burn or is the lean burn causing the overheating? usually it is a lean burn causing the overheating.
so why is it running lean? that's a whole diff issue. oil leak i would trouble shoot first though. loosing a qt a day means a serious prob somewhere

 

So what test can I do at home to check which is causing which. Dont wanna chase a problem with new parts, unless it makes sense.

 

do u have a manual for ur xj?

 

No manual, but Im a stubborn google searcher. Gonna try to put a dash with real gauges in my 92 today.

 

Jay, get a manual. Fix the oil leak or you won't need to worry about any other probs you may have.

 

Did you check with a vacuum gauge at the dipstick tube with both front and rear ccv hoses pinched? If there is strong vacuum it's valve seals leaking. Normaly there should be pressure due to blowby with both hoses plugged.

 

Use pressure washer to clean engine or brush and a few bottles of brake cleaner.
there is no easy way, get engine clean then watch for leak.
After pressure washing, use compressed air to blow off water around spark plugs. Open destr cap to dry off water.

 

^^^^^
Only do this if you really like walking everywhere.

 

Don't know if its been said but have you looked under your Rad cap of late?

 

Yes, Ive looked under the rad cap several times. Nice green coolant, no oil whatsoever. Cleaned valve cover area and decided to put a ratchet on it. Every bolt took at least 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. No need to presuure wash the engine, since its already almost clean enough to eat off.
No manual and nowhere within 1000+mi of dirt road travel to get one.
Im planning an engine rebuild but need to hold off until this winter.

 

If you have postal delivery to your location you can get a manual shipped to you.
I have one of these for the 1990 models.
Disclaimer: Not affiliated wih vendor in any manner. Just trying to help a fellow XJ owner.


HTH
Available here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Jeep-Sh...c86ffd&vxp=mtr