rlssteiner

Recently my jeep has started to not shift from first till about 3000 rpm with me letting go off the gas. It does this alot when I first Drive the jeep and sometimes when i have been driving it for awhile ANY HELP on what the problem could be would be apperciated,
YES I have changed the tranny fluid 2 times and new gasket and filter, it is at the little hole in dipstick, Should i add more like to say max??

DaddyCat

Kick down cable adjustment (it's free!)
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
If that doesn't fix it might be your TPS.
Are you checking the ATF correctly?
Above ADD but below MAX is correct but do not over fill.

crystalion

How many miles ?

used to work at a tranny shop back in the day.
For the most part when the o-rings and lip seals get hard the fluid will pass them by causing late shifts and slippage.

Once warm the seals expand a bit and get softer now holding the pressure in the clutch drums.

Alot of times changing the fluid WILL cause this-since your old fluid was broken down actually HELPING it shift. Now that new fluid is introduced it will slip past things easier.

Not saying this is your problem-Start simple and work your way up the food chain.

How was it before the fluid changes ?

rlssteiner

well it has 182,000 miles but when i bought it at 181,000 it was not shifting like that, ALSO when i changed the ATF fluid is was really black, and i have heard that if its not changed often then to leave it because the worn fluid is better then new. BUT the thing is, that it started doing that with old fluid in. So I'm really confused right now, im doing the throttle cable kick down thing right now. I will let you guys know how that goes.

VTJeep

those kick downs are pretty common, i hope thats it.. i guess if its not, then get it on a code reader. even if the CEL isnt on, there is a chance that there is a code storred in there that might give you something to work with.

rlssteiner

So it was not the kick down cable, and as for tps would I replace or clean or what?

DaddyCat

Read this thread, be aware the first testing post is for the CPS, read farther down for the TPS test:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-test-tps-610386/

If you buy a new TPS stay away from AutoZone sensors, buying from the Jeep dealer is a much better option for sensors.

PolarXJ

Speaking from experience? I've been running a TPS for 5 years from autozone.

crystalion

if your saying your fluid was really BLACK that would mean that the clutch drums ( they have one friction plate against one steel usually in packs of 3-7 discs) have usually burnt up. The friction material is now gone as in a manual clutch transmission where the disc has worn against the steel flywheel.

182K is actaually good for any tranny.

Many people buy tansmission HELPERS as in- come in a can fixes when things just start going wrong. Most of these additives actually attack the rubber o-rings and lip seals breaking down the rubber making it soft again. When these are added- the bad thing is they are no fix at all and usually finish off the trans fluid and burning up the clutch-packs faster.

Your replacement of the fluid took away FRICTION between the worn parts so now they actually slip instead of grab. When we got a car in with really bad fluid that just wanted an oil change we would have to get the boss and have him explain to the customer that IF we change it and the car doesn't move--not our problem.

It was usually 50-50. Some would just leave it and when it finally toasts come back for a new unit. Some just had us replace the unit then. The few who took the chance didn't end up that happy- we had many cars basically dead on the lift with the guys mouth wide open.

Metmknice

THe Napa brand sensors are good. Pull the fuse for the TCU ( pass side under dash) and see if it drives/shifts manually.
If so, probably need a new TCU.

DaddyCat

I have had not used the AutoZone TPS, I have used many other parts from AZ and they are some times ok and some times not. In the 6 months I've been here on CF I've seen enough people post about problems with AZ sensors to stay away from them. I'm glad your's is working for you.

crystalion

I think alot of you are missing the point that the fluid was balck/burnt ( 182K if its the original transmission) and was having problems before and after the change.

Everybody wants a cheap fix but this is pointing to something very obvious. A worn out-burnt up tranny that most probably should be replaced/rebuilt . I hate to say it but its better than wasting more time -energy- and getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with no forward/ reverse.

rlssteiner

I have read all post but the reason i hate to think the tranny is bad is the fact that it does not do it after i have been driving for awhile, As for having the transmission rebuilt, what is the average price?

rlssteiner

which number is the tcu fuse?

crystalion

OK i'll explain further.

Its known as "MORNING SICKNESS " in the trans world. Meaning you'll get no-shifts, late shifts, slips between shifts until it the unit gets up to temperature. This is because the seal-o'rings inside the trans are old and hard. When cold they are in a very hard , shrunken state. Once they become hot they become more pliable and they expand a bit and their abilty to hold the "pressure" of the tranny fluid increases . Now the pistons inside the clutch drums can apply themselves with force to the clutch pack locking it together and giving you another gear.

I'm strictly basing this on what I know as fact about an average dying transmission--your milage on the car and the blackness of your fluid.

I have no clue what a rebuilt unit would cost but I'm sure its probably about $1,000 from a good transmission shop.

Also if you want an opinion -just drive to whatever tranny shop u have near u and have them road test it and give u their opinion ( most are free and they WILL want to sell U a unit BUT don't be an idiot and make any quick decisions). Just make sure you pick a good reliable shop. Most or alot of " all repairs including tranny's" shops will after you leave just have your car trucked off or driven to whoever does transmissions for them, basically alot of places just act as a middlleman-get a discount from the tranny guy and actually charge you more than if you went direct.