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-   -   Code p0132 (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/code-p0132-189729/)

RideRed264 Mar 6, 2014 01:51 PM

Code p0132
 
Hi guys, my 97 cherokee keeps throwing the code p0132. Within the last year and a half I've replaced both o2 sensors. I believe they were made by Bosch. The only time it throws the code is when I let the jeep sit and idle for more than 10 mins. I've checked both the o2 sensor wires and they appear to be in good shape. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.

PurpleToxin505 Mar 6, 2014 02:24 PM

Dude, ive been throwing the same code for a lil over 2 months, its the rear o2, so doesnt really affect anything but the cel is still there. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in, if theres any other fix i'd be interested

CCKen Mar 6, 2014 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by RideRed264 (Post 2795835)
Hi guys, my 97 cherokee keeps throwing the code p0132. Within the last year and a half I've replaced both o2 sensors. I believe they were made by Bosch. The only time it throws the code is when I let the jeep sit and idle for more than 10 mins. I've checked both the o2 sensor wires and they appear to be in good shape. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.

When did t start throwing the code?

Here's some data from the diagnostics manual:

P0132-1/1 O2 SENSOR SHORTED TO VOLTAGE

When Monitored: With battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts, engine running for more than 4 minutes and coolant temperature above 180°F.

Set Condition: The oxygen sensor voltage is above 1.5 volts.

Possible Causes

INTERMITTENT CONDITION
O2 SENSOR OPERATION
O2 SENSOR SIGNAL SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
O2 SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO O2 HEATER CIRCUIT
O2 SENSOR SIGNAL OPEN
O2 SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
PCM


Short of ckecking the O2S out electrically, you can examine the upstream O2S wiring closely, from the O2S connector to the injector wiring manfold. Remove the wire split loom and take a close look. Make sure the wiring isn't chafed and shorting together. Chafing has occurred where the wiring crosses the intake manifold.

Additionally, check the wiring from the manifold where it exits the manifold near the back of the valve cover. The harness takes a turn here and has been known to rub on the valve cover and/or the end of the manifold and chafe through to the wiring.

Consider using NTK O2S's instead of Bosch O2S's. There have been reports of Bosch O2S's giving problems.

peelman Mar 6, 2014 02:36 PM

[QUOTE=RideRed264;2795835]Hi guys, my 97 cherokee keeps throwing the code p0132. Within the last year and a half I've replaced both o2 sensors. I believe they were made by Bosch. The only time it throws the code is when I let the jeep sit and idle for more than 10 mins. I've checked both the o2 sensor wires and they appear to be in good shape. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.[/QUO

P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1. That's your front upstream sensor. Could be because Jeeps seem to prefer NTK/ NGK 02 sensors. On my 2000 my front drive shaft chafed the insulation off one of the 02 heater wires and caused a short. Check your fuse in the PDC under the hood.

RideRed264 Mar 6, 2014 03:32 PM

Alright cool, I'll have some stuff to try when I get home! I'll keep you guys updated

RideRed264 Mar 6, 2014 07:41 PM

Alright, I touched the split loom and it disintegrated, so that was pretty easy to take off lol. There was 1 spot where all the wires were stuck together right where it curves over the manifold. Pulled them all apart and the wires look like they have pinholes into the rubber of the wires where they melted together. I replaced the split loom and after idling for 15mins the CEL hasn't come back on! Only time will tell if it's fixed or not, but for now id have to say she's fixed! The wire insulation doesn't look too bad, so i won't patch it unless it comes back. Thanks guys! Ohh, and I found 3 loose oil pan bolts while I was down there!

CCKen Mar 7, 2014 06:54 AM


Originally Posted by RideRed264 (Post 2796203)
Alright, I touched the split loom and it disintegrated, so that was pretty easy to take off lol. There was 1 spot where all the wires were stuck together right where it curves over the manifold. Pulled them all apart and the wires look like they have pinholes into the rubber of the wires where they melted together. I replaced the split loom and after idling for 15mins the CEL hasn't come back on! Only time will tell if it's fixed or not, but for now id have to say she's fixed! The wire insulation doesn't look too bad, so i won't patch it unless it comes back. Thanks guys! Ohh, and I found 3 loose oil pan bolts while I was down there!

Good work, but I would fix those wires before there's another incident. Sometimes a PCM can get screwed up from O2S high voltage inputs.

RideRed264 Mar 7, 2014 08:51 AM

What would be the best way to fix those wires? I'm not a big fan of chopping up the wiring harness, so when I do I want to make sure it is done right. My first instinct would be to cut the bad part out, soldier, and cover it with that shrink tube stuff.

CCKen Mar 7, 2014 12:46 PM


Originally Posted by RideRed264 (Post 2796753)
What would be the best way to fix those wires? I'm not a big fan of chopping up the wiring harness, so when I do I want to make sure it is done right. My first instinct would be to cut the bad part out, soldier, and cover it with that shrink tube stuff.

If the wire insulation is frayed to bare wires then cut, solder, shrink tube, is the best way to go. But if the wiring insulation is only porous (as viewed with a magnifying glass) then a thin coating of red high temp RTV to the porous areas, followed by a layer of tape to seal it all up should do.

Don't forget new split corrugated loom to cover it.

tjwalker Mar 7, 2014 05:33 PM

CCKen gets the cookie! :thumbup::cheers:

Always listen to CCKen for he knoweth what he talketh about.......

RideRed264 Mar 7, 2014 06:15 PM

I guess! I've had to deal with the check engine light for months now! Got her all rtv'd and taped and now she's good to go!

Woxof Oct 13, 2014 02:13 PM

I just replaced my front (1/1) with a Bosch part. Anyone have a problem with this part? Work good?


My jeep dealer didn't have the OEM part in stock (and it was twice the $$$).


Thanks for the feedback.

CCKen Oct 13, 2014 04:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Woxof (Post 2952542)
I just replaced my front (1/1) with a Bosch part. Anyone have a problem with this part? Work good?


My jeep dealer didn't have the OEM part in stock (and it was twice the $$$).


Thanks for the feedback.

I don't think a Bosch O2S will mix well with three other NTK O2S'.

Here's a pic of your exhaust with the NTK part numbers.

You can get NTK O2S's at Rockauto.com cheaper than the dealer.

Attachment 319665

Woxof Oct 14, 2014 10:05 AM

CCKen:
Thanks for the link. The Bosch has been working fine for now but I ordered a full set of NTK and plan to replace them all. Sweet.


While I have you.... do you have a best solution for the #3 cylinder misfire when heat soaked (I know of many fixes, but I haven't distilled it down to the best one).

CCKen Oct 14, 2014 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by Woxof (Post 2953047)
CCKen:
Thanks for the link. The Bosch has been working fine for now but I ordered a full set of NTK and plan to replace them all. Sweet.


While I have you.... do you have a best solution for the #3 cylinder misfire when heat soaked (I know of many fixes, but I haven't distilled it down to the best one).

Can't help you there. The only thing I could suggest is cruising all the forums and threads concerning this and find one, or more, that showed their method as working, then do it.


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