Clutch problem on '92 XJ
03-22-2010, 07:22 PM
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Clutch problem on '92 XJ
I recently bought a 92 XJ for $700. It's in great shape except for the clutch. The former owner stated that the slave cylinder is out. I have nearly 0 mechanical experience with the exception that I put springs/ struts on my Nissan car a few years back.
If you pump the clutch a bunch, it eventually gains enough pressure to put the Jeep into gear. When you let out on the clutch pedal, the Jeep lurches forward after the pedal is barely an inch off the floor. It appeared to shift okay after that with minimal pumping of the clutch pedal. When I first attempted to come to a stop, I pushed in the clutch and brake pedal, but, the Jeep nearly drug me into the road.
I should mention that this Jeep has sat mostly for 2 years with very minimal use. The fluid does not appear to have leaked out anywhere, but, it's been about 3 days since I've been able to check, although, I've not been driving it.
Does this sound like a slave or master cylinder or...
Looking for some suggestions before I buy a clutch kit w/ slave cylinder.
Thanks!
N.E. James
If you pump the clutch a bunch, it eventually gains enough pressure to put the Jeep into gear. When you let out on the clutch pedal, the Jeep lurches forward after the pedal is barely an inch off the floor. It appeared to shift okay after that with minimal pumping of the clutch pedal. When I first attempted to come to a stop, I pushed in the clutch and brake pedal, but, the Jeep nearly drug me into the road.
I should mention that this Jeep has sat mostly for 2 years with very minimal use. The fluid does not appear to have leaked out anywhere, but, it's been about 3 days since I've been able to check, although, I've not been driving it.
Does this sound like a slave or master cylinder or...
Looking for some suggestions before I buy a clutch kit w/ slave cylinder.
Thanks!
N.E. James
03-22-2010, 08:13 PM
#2
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Model: Cherokee
This just happened to my 89 comanche. Check your clutch fluid reservoir (AKA master cylinder). Its on the drivers side, right under the hood, closest to the driver. It should say "Only DOT 3 Brake Fluid". Fill it up! and check for leaks. I dont know about the cherokee fuse box placement, but I'm guessing its in the same spot. Check where the clutch pedal leads to the master cylinder and look for leaks. I hear the stuff will eat the fuse box and cost a ton in electrical repairs.
The master cylinder is a very easy change (and relatively cheap fix, I bought a Wagner replacement at the local auto parts store for 70$. You can find them cheaper but I've heard bad things about them going out in 4-6 months) I'm no mechanic and did it with someone else in 20 minutes, 15 of those were spend trying to hold the nuts by the clutch pedal. theyre kinda difficult to get to.
but------ 2 weeks after I changed the master cylinder, the slave sprung a leak. I have an internal slave cause its the Peugeot from 89 and im very leary about dropping the transmission and busting open the bell housing.
I just fill it up every 2-3 weeks now with brake fluid until i grow the courage to change it.
hope this helps.
and when i didnt know it was the master cylinder leaking, i lost the clutch and ran into a golf cart...... watch it!
The master cylinder is a very easy change (and relatively cheap fix, I bought a Wagner replacement at the local auto parts store for 70$. You can find them cheaper but I've heard bad things about them going out in 4-6 months) I'm no mechanic and did it with someone else in 20 minutes, 15 of those were spend trying to hold the nuts by the clutch pedal. theyre kinda difficult to get to.
but------ 2 weeks after I changed the master cylinder, the slave sprung a leak. I have an internal slave cause its the Peugeot from 89 and im very leary about dropping the transmission and busting open the bell housing.
I just fill it up every 2-3 weeks now with brake fluid until i grow the courage to change it.
hope this helps.
and when i didnt know it was the master cylinder leaking, i lost the clutch and ran into a golf cart...... watch it!
03-22-2010, 08:54 PM
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First of all... GO BUY A "good" repair book (Haynes or the thick Chilton book). If you don't want to buy a $15.00 book then go to the dealer and give them a months worth of paychecks to do the easiest of things. Just reading the book and getting the "buzz words" right when talking to a mechanic will reduce the bill by at least 30%... Otherwise you'll be paying to get the muffler bearings changed along with every other imaginary "thing-a-ma-bob" they have ever heard of...
Secondly, of all, get 2 cans of Gunk Engine Degreaser (not the foamy stuff) and go to the local manual car wash. Take some paper towels with you to dry off the spark plug wires (if the car does not start after your done rinseing the Gunk and oil off the engine and transmission). Do not spray the carb area as the idle control unit does NOT like to get wet or it will cause the engine to race instead of idling. Spray the bottom of the engine and the bell housing. This is to find out if there is a fluid leaking from the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the engine. If there is brake fluid leaking from there you need to pull the transmission and replace the clutch slave/throwout bearing assembly. That usually takes me all weekend to to.
While the transmission is out replace the clutch disk also. If no leaks down there, peel back the rug under the clutch pedal and see if there is brake fluid there. If so, you should replace the clutch master cylinder. That is about a 2 hour job if you have the basic skills.
If no brake fluid either place, all you need to do is bleed the clutch line from below the drivers seat under the car. That usually takes 10 minutes if you get the wife to operate the clutch while you bleed the line from below.
I've had to replace the clutch slave/throwout assy about 5 times (every 70,000 miles).
Observe ALL safety precautions (block wheels, use jack stands on level hard surface, wear eye protection (goggles). Most AutoZone stores will have FREE loaner tools for all the specialty stuff.
"Hey boss, let me fix this one, I've never seen one of these before..."
Big Mac
Secondly, of all, get 2 cans of Gunk Engine Degreaser (not the foamy stuff) and go to the local manual car wash. Take some paper towels with you to dry off the spark plug wires (if the car does not start after your done rinseing the Gunk and oil off the engine and transmission). Do not spray the carb area as the idle control unit does NOT like to get wet or it will cause the engine to race instead of idling. Spray the bottom of the engine and the bell housing. This is to find out if there is a fluid leaking from the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the engine. If there is brake fluid leaking from there you need to pull the transmission and replace the clutch slave/throwout bearing assembly. That usually takes me all weekend to to.
While the transmission is out replace the clutch disk also. If no leaks down there, peel back the rug under the clutch pedal and see if there is brake fluid there. If so, you should replace the clutch master cylinder. That is about a 2 hour job if you have the basic skills.
If no brake fluid either place, all you need to do is bleed the clutch line from below the drivers seat under the car. That usually takes 10 minutes if you get the wife to operate the clutch while you bleed the line from below.
I've had to replace the clutch slave/throwout assy about 5 times (every 70,000 miles).
Observe ALL safety precautions (block wheels, use jack stands on level hard surface, wear eye protection (goggles). Most AutoZone stores will have FREE loaner tools for all the specialty stuff.
"Hey boss, let me fix this one, I've never seen one of these before..."
Big Mac
03-24-2010, 08:54 PM
#4
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
First of all... GO BUY A "good" repair book (Haynes or the thick Chilton book). If you don't want to buy a $15.00 book then go to the dealer and give them a months worth of paychecks to do the easiest of things. Just reading the book and getting the "buzz words" right when talking to a mechanic will reduce the bill by at least 30%... Otherwise you'll be paying to get the muffler bearings changed along with every other imaginary "thing-a-ma-bob" they have ever heard of...
Secondly, of all, get 2 cans of Gunk Engine Degreaser (not the foamy stuff) and go to the local manual car wash. Take some paper towels with you to dry off the spark plug wires (if the car does not start after your done rinseing the Gunk and oil off the engine and transmission). Do not spray the carb area as the idle control unit does NOT like to get wet or it will cause the engine to race instead of idling. Spray the bottom of the engine and the bell housing. This is to find out if there is a fluid leaking from the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the engine. If there is brake fluid leaking from there you need to pull the transmission and replace the clutch slave/throwout bearing assembly. That usually takes me all weekend to to.
While the transmission is out replace the clutch disk also. If no leaks down there, peel back the rug under the clutch pedal and see if there is brake fluid there. If so, you should replace the clutch master cylinder. That is about a 2 hour job if you have the basic skills.
If no brake fluid either place, all you need to do is bleed the clutch line from below the drivers seat under the car. That usually takes 10 minutes if you get the wife to operate the clutch while you bleed the line from below.
I've had to replace the clutch slave/throwout assy about 5 times (every 70,000 miles).
Observe ALL safety precautions (block wheels, use jack stands on level hard surface, wear eye protection (goggles). Most AutoZone stores will have FREE loaner tools for all the specialty stuff.
"Hey boss, let me fix this one, I've never seen one of these before..."
Big Mac
Secondly, of all, get 2 cans of Gunk Engine Degreaser (not the foamy stuff) and go to the local manual car wash. Take some paper towels with you to dry off the spark plug wires (if the car does not start after your done rinseing the Gunk and oil off the engine and transmission). Do not spray the carb area as the idle control unit does NOT like to get wet or it will cause the engine to race instead of idling. Spray the bottom of the engine and the bell housing. This is to find out if there is a fluid leaking from the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the engine. If there is brake fluid leaking from there you need to pull the transmission and replace the clutch slave/throwout bearing assembly. That usually takes me all weekend to to.
While the transmission is out replace the clutch disk also. If no leaks down there, peel back the rug under the clutch pedal and see if there is brake fluid there. If so, you should replace the clutch master cylinder. That is about a 2 hour job if you have the basic skills.
If no brake fluid either place, all you need to do is bleed the clutch line from below the drivers seat under the car. That usually takes 10 minutes if you get the wife to operate the clutch while you bleed the line from below.
I've had to replace the clutch slave/throwout assy about 5 times (every 70,000 miles).
Observe ALL safety precautions (block wheels, use jack stands on level hard surface, wear eye protection (goggles). Most AutoZone stores will have FREE loaner tools for all the specialty stuff.
"Hey boss, let me fix this one, I've never seen one of these before..."
Big Mac
The parts should arrive Friday, but, I won't be able to start doing anything until @least Monday as I have to work this weekend.
03-25-2010, 01:49 PM
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Jeep Clutch replacement
If you are changing the clutch pad and throwout/slave cylinder(single part), DO NOT forget to change the clutch pilot bushing/bearing (get removal tool from AutoZone as a loaner)
BEWARE Do not touch the rubber band looking tie on the hydraulic throwout bearing. It is used to hold the bellows compressed, during installation. The hydraulic pressure breaks the rubber band after the clutch is installed. The clutch is a real bear to install IF you leave the try to install it with the slave/throwout bearing in the uncompressed state.
Go RENT a "GOOD" adjustable transmission jack from a rental center for this job. A regular floor jack isn't good enough for this job. If you have a 4x4 the transfer case makes the transmission VERY heavy and it tends to rotate if not using a "real" transmission jack. DO NOT use the manual sizzlers style jack, they are not stable enough for the 4x4 transmission and are downright dangerous.
This being your "first time" is a great learning experience. Local mechanics around here charge about $750 for the labor alone...
Enjoy
Big Mac
BEWARE Do not touch the rubber band looking tie on the hydraulic throwout bearing. It is used to hold the bellows compressed, during installation. The hydraulic pressure breaks the rubber band after the clutch is installed. The clutch is a real bear to install IF you leave the try to install it with the slave/throwout bearing in the uncompressed state.
Go RENT a "GOOD" adjustable transmission jack from a rental center for this job. A regular floor jack isn't good enough for this job. If you have a 4x4 the transfer case makes the transmission VERY heavy and it tends to rotate if not using a "real" transmission jack. DO NOT use the manual sizzlers style jack, they are not stable enough for the 4x4 transmission and are downright dangerous.
This being your "first time" is a great learning experience. Local mechanics around here charge about $750 for the labor alone...
Enjoy
Big Mac
03-26-2012, 09:57 PM
#6
I did replaced my ranger clutch for the first time. Do it when you have time in case it takes you longer. I did my ranger by lifting and hanging the trans on a 2x4 lumber which I placed a cross the doors. I was then able to get under the trans and turn and push until it was on. You will find the trans jack completely useless becuase it will get in your way. I learned this from a practical countryman. If you are changing a trans on your back, this is your best bid.
03-26-2012, 10:15 PM
#7
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I pulled mine out with a regular jack and a ratchet strap... its not very heavy. I lifted my trans and tcase onto my work bench...myself. This is an easy job, just time consuming. Do your Ujoints while the d shafts are out btw. Oh, and all the info you need for this job can actually be found on this forum using the search function. No disrespect.
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