I have a 94 Cherokee Sport with a 4.0 2wd automatic stock. Last week it started shutting off when I made right turns and only shut off once when I went straight. The tank was low so we thought filling it would help. It didn't make a difference and actually made it so when I even slightly turned it to the right just to change lanes it would die. I parked it and luckily had a friends car to drive the rest of the week. Now it won't start at all. It cranks but won't turn over. It started for literally 2 seconds and then died and wouldn't turn over again. Last night we got it to start up once but not again. My fuel pump is working. New fuel filters. Looking through everything, this must have happened before because the fuel pump has been replaced and so have the relays. Bought new relays last night. That wasn't it. Going to buy the Cam sensor tonight. Anything else it could be or if you have already gone through this and found the issue.

I have found multiple things online about this and people posting but never any solutions as to what fixed theirs or if they figured it out. Anything will help us narrow it down.

Thank you

its just the motor that shuts off or all acc .like lights radio andthat stuff

Adopt a "testing" strategy. Don't throw parts at this. It is inefficient and gets expensive in a hurry.

1. Test for spark. Pull a spark plug, keep it attached to the plug wire, place the plug electrode near a good engine ground, have a buddy crank the engine while you watch closely. You are looking for a strong, blue, snapping spark. Yellow/orange/white indicates a weak spark which may not be enough to start the engine.

2. If spark checks out (and only if), the move onto fuel. Spray a small amount of starting fluid into the intake. If the engine starts and runs momentarily, you have confirmed a fuel delivery problem. You said your fuel pump is working and it might very well be, but that does not mean that you are getting fuel TO the fuel injectors.

Once you know what part of the starting equation you are missing, the suspect list gets a whole lot shorter.

SPARK + FUEL + (air and compression) = START

Report back what you find.

Freegdr- Just the motor shuts off. The radio and stuff are still going.

tjwalker- We did do that. We tested the spark plug like you are saying and I beleive he said he can rule out the fuel. I was cranking it while he tested different things and that was one of them. I'm going to sound like an idiot for a moment but I don't remember what he said if it sparked or not. It's only almost 1 and it's already been a long day. I didn't know about the different colors though so I will ask him tonight. He was out there forever last night testing things so I'm sure he's done alot but I will double check tonight and see if there was anything he forgot.

Testing for a strong spark is always the first thing I do. If you don't have a strong blue spark, that can often be the problem.

Find out exactly how spark/fuel was confirmed and check back. If there is any doubt, do what I recommended.

has the fuel filter ever been replaced, how are they spark plug wires old new could be loose coil wire connection or the wiring to the cps rotten and touching the block in rear of motor

cps wireing location

Out of curiosity, Have you look into the condition of your fuse block? mainly the main power source pass through at the firewall. I had one that did similar to what you say, died anytime I would turn, and it turned out to be severely corroded wires. Just a thought, free to check, only takes 5 minutes to do, and one bolt to remove, lol.

Yes we just replaced the fuel filter. Spark plug wires aren't old but aren't new. They are in the middle. I'll check the rest or see if he already checked it

I know we checked the fuses and relays that are under the hood near the battery. I don't know about where you are talking about. I'd have to double check.

Yea that is what I am most likely buying tonight unless there is a way to test it before I have to buy a new one.

the coil wire would be the main concern

Find the ecm under the hood, follow the big harness to the firewall. At the fire wall there is a junction block with one bolt passing through the center of it. That's where I'm talking about. You should be able to pull the rubber boot away a tick to see if there is any green there. Like I said though just a thought, and a simple thing to check.

First thing checked was fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. Last time I tested this there was automatic pressure with all off plugging the gauge in. This time, when I put the gauge on it was at 0. When putting the key to on the gauge went around 30 then just started draining off to 0. I checked the voltage to the fuel pump and it was at 4 volts. I would imagine that it should be at 12 as everything runs on 12. the fuel sending unit is still working so the whole wiring is not off. When turning the key on I could not hear the fuel pump running but that may have been from the buzzer and radio running. replaced the fuel pump relay and anti-diesel/auto shutdown relay and made sure radio was off and buzzer shut up and heard the pump running. checked gauge and it went to around 40 i think but again starting draining off.
checked spark and I got a blue spark for a split second then nothing. normally every time i've done this test it keeps sparking not just once. i tested the relay blocks (not sure what thats called but where those two relays plug in) and everything tested good, 12 volts constant on I think the 30 plug and then when key was on the 86 or 87 was at 12 i believe. not sure on which slots but all my books said that was correct.
I hardwired the fuel pump relay and fuel pump turned on immediately pumping at 40 psi so pump is good. attempted to start the car and it would not start. my guess is since the pump was running and still nothing that it may be spark. Im thinking cps or coil. some have also said the ballast resistor.

Stop right there. If you don't have a constant blue spark as the engine is cranked, that IS your problem.

I don't believe you have a ballast resistor on a 94 and even if you did, this does not sound like the problem as the ballast resistor is bypassed when the engine is "cranked over". That is why when you have a ballast problem, the engine will start but when you release the key, it will stall.

Concentrate on the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition coil.