Video I made this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnqh...ature=youtu.be

 

Compression test results?


Fuel injector resistance (should be around 11-12 Ohms). Very low resistance can smoke the injector drivers in the PCM for the low resistance injectors.


Noid light check the injector circuits?


Lifter preloads. Corn cobbed cam lobes?

 

Couldn't get the compressor test done today, but ran the diagnostic.





All the codes I pulled were a result of my tinkering so I cleared what was there. I'll post more tomorrow after another code read

 

I would have replaced the timing chain since you had it all apart, With that many miles it might be worn out. Just a thought.

 

On the drivers side of the block where the head meets, mold 1/2# of C4 to the block, attach det cord move back 100 yds., ignite.


End of issues


Read all the posts and I'm at loss also, it has to be electrical of some kind JMHO.

 

You my friend have figured life out. Ive got all this det cord, but I'm all out of C4.

Tried to crank it this morning after checking all of the wires, and she's popping into the intake; now no start at all.

Fuel pumps probably shot.

 

You technically don't ignite det cord. You'd be better off with shock tubing. Plus 100 yds is way too far of a MSD.

 

In the first screen shot the Ignition Advance was 11 degrees, in the 2nd shot the advance was 17.5 degrees. Are both of these at 746 RPM? 11 looks about right, 17.5 is too high.


Are you positive the distributor is installed properly (timed)? The reason I ask is: "Tried to crank it this morning after checking all of the wires, and she's popping into the intake; now no start at all."

 

I am certian. when cylinder 1 is in the full up compression setting , TDC, the rotor is exactly at 5 o'clock and the hole lines up.. She cranked every time, except when I intentionally had the timing off. And I set the timing days ago. She wouldn't start this morning by herself, had to floor the accelerator to get it to at least fire, but it seems only one or two cylinders are actually firing, causing the backfiring/popping Then stall.

 

Video from today. TWO of my *NEW* lifters have failed. One on the exaust valve of my #2, and one on my #6 intake valve.

The back fire is from the successful combustion of #2 going into the intake instead of out the exaust.

And #6 fails to fire due to not receiving any oxygen from the failed intake valve.

99 Jeep Cherokee Lifter failure: https://youtu.be/8LDaWhCoWnw

 

I've not only done research but tried recreating your issue. I've had no success so far.

 

Interesting video.


I wonder what the cam lobes look like.


When you installed the new lifters did you coat the lifter faces with assembly lube and do the mandatory break-in run.


When/if you install new lifters, make sure you do this.


Also, check the lifter preloads.

.

 

Well the week old lifters look like ****. And have a few new holes in them. I did the break in run and they were lubed before installation. Orilleys let me exchange all of the messed up lifters for new ones on warranty. Installed the new ones toniget and my jeep purrs like a kitten.

 

What brand name are those POS lifters?


BTW: I would be concerned that they ate your cam lobes.

 

Sealed Power..



Cam lobes are fine. Pulled and inspected the cam shaft when I had it all apart, again...