Thanks for getting back! Don't really care for it when people just walk after they hear what they need. Subtracts from the forum. Yea, I might have got it if I saw my radiator continuously "exhaling". Yea those bolts are tough, but not THAT bad. You did remove your air cleaner? Anyway make sure those manifold studs in the replacement head a are good, and check about sealant on one? or two? head bolts. (I haven't done a 4.0 head). Also my injector 0 rings where crap.

 

yeah, whenever I'm researching old threads I hate when people never reply back with the fix. People make good suggestions in threads but it leaves you hanging when the original poster never reveals what the problem actually was. Also my radiator wasn't actually spewing fluid all the time. I was loosing coolant and couldn't find the leak. When I said that the radiator was overflowing I meant with the cap off but now that I think about I guess thats not normal either. Lol still learning, but I thought it was overflowing due to the T-stat opening. I'm talking just sitting idling not driving. I also didn't notice any bubbles when it was idling, just started to overflow all the sudden. Need some help with my diagnostic skills.lol

edit*I removed top of the aircleaner box but not the bottom,guess I'll know better next time-thanks

Also to further update, I went back to the salvage yard this morning and got an intake manifold and cylinder head for $45 dollars. I planned on just getting the intake manifold but figured what the hell and pulled the head too (half price this weekend)just to see if it had any noticeable cracks. Didn't notice any cracks on the lot and bought it. I got it home and removed the valves and did a little cleaning and still don't see any cracks. I'm planning on just cleaning block and cylinder head mating surface good(scraper and scotch-brite), installing new valve seals, all new gaskets and torqueing it down. I've decided to just take the hood off and lower the cylinder head&exhaust&intake manifold combo in. I know this isn't how most people do it but I see no way to torque the intake/exhaust manifold bolts while it is in the engine bay. Even with the cylinder head out of the engine bay I'll need an extension and I understand that can effect torque readings. Please give me suggestions on how to do this. thanks and I'll keep ya'll updated.

 

torqueing the manifold and intake are not overely important. when i did my header i just put everything to the tight spec. havent had a problem in 4 yrs.
i think for best results you should put the head on first, less chances of dinging it or messing up the intake, etc. make sure that the head bolts are not torque to yield, if they are then they have to be replaced. and make sure they get torqued in order.

 

Mmmm. Your treaden on some pretty thin ice there. I think you might want to at least have it magnufluxed for cracks, and check for flat. Then the valves could be lapped with valve grinding compound and a drill and fuel line, at least. If it has no cracks and is flat enough and holds diesel OK, still it needs to be the right head. I'm no help there. Then as Jeb points out real tight is what I assume allot end up doing with those manifold bolts. (evenly starting from the center.) It's a different world down there with the air cleaner out of the way, you can reach. There's only one I would call tough. (that last rear one is easy with 18 inches of extension and a universal). You could gamble and get lucky. You might check the cost of having a local machine shop go through it if it's a suitable head. It's always something small that will give you fits. A keeper won't fit, a thread is somehow wrong, there's a speck of anti-mater in the flux converter.

 

7 strokes huh?

 

Hey Slick, welcome back. Let us bend your ear a sec. What say you? I can't say I've had anything fail over a sloppy guide. And, Ha Ha! That's in case something is loose.

 

I had a similar problem, mine turned out to be just a loose fuel injector clip. The electronic clip just wasn't secured all the way. And for the leak check your water pump because mine was leaking under it and I didn't see it at first.

 

How's it goin don?Ya first off I would go with a 91-95 jy head. Get a good valve job and have the sealing surface milled flat. while youre at it (before the machine work) you can easily do a minor port and polish. I have a good guide for doing this work. Pm me if you're interested. As for putting it together you absolutely have to get new head bolts and torque them properly. Bolts stretch a certain amount when you torque them. If you use the old ones they could come loose. Not having equal torque on the intake manifold can cause leaks, then you have to tear it back down. With a combination of extensions and a 3/8 drive torque wrench you can get to all the bolts on the intake. You have to have the manifold stripped of accesories including the throttle body. It's a good idea to re torque your intake after a few hot cold cycles also. Be careful to keep everything spic and span during your re assembly. By the way intake/exaust gasket and the head gasket should be installed dry. I use gasket sealer on the throttle body gasket. Good luck. Oh ya there is a torque sequencing for both the head and intake. Follow em. There's a reason the guidelines are there. If you just tighten randomly its hit and miss. If you follow the manual for sequencing and spec you will get it right. When torquing these things tighten em a little then set the wrench to about 40%, 60%, 80%, then drive em home. This will ensure no warpage and a nice even seal.

 

*The comp.tester doesn't matter allot as long as it's consistent. Will be higher or lower depending on the batt. and starter ect anyway. It's mainly the difference between readings that tells the story.
*I think that would be called an ear on the manifold. I think of a flange as going all the way around.
*Maybe a #5 code due to something like a plug or injector? Of course you didn't mix up the push-rods and are going to check them.
*Curious, did your new stuff come with a heat shield, and what year. (dare I ask!)
*Thermostats open pretty slow. Wouldn't think that would cause a surge. Don't know.
*For pics scroll down to "manage attachments". Browse, then double click on your file. Then click upload. Something small on the bottom left changes when it's done. After you close that window you will see the file waiting there for you to click "post reply". You can always go back on your post with "edit" to add or change text.

 

Haha don, we renix folk are lucky with the heat shield. Does anyone know if ANY h.o. had the heat shield?

 

Thanks, I'll remember "we" have the last heat shield. I have it on good authority though that HO didn't start till 91. (Slick had just told me that 10 minutes ago)

Edit. OK DUh strikes again, (how I spell add ADD). He's 2000, not 90........zeros are zeros......

 

Lol

 

"I'm so cheap I've changed only the gasket, if it's clear the old one was the problem"

And:

"I think you might want to at least have it magnufluxed for cracks, and check for flat."

The reason for the difference being the JY head has a completely unknown history.

# @ Drivers side top edge

The heads that had trouble were the early #0331 heads (1999-2001WJ/TJ, 2000-2001XJ) before they were revised in late 2001 (revised heads have the "TUPY" foundry mark.)

1998 will have the #0630 head, which is typically subject to uncommon individual defects rather than a class-affecting problem.

Again, great link in post#3 TJ.