so turns out the newly acquired XJ needs a torque converter.
i have a fairly decent hint of mechanical ability but ive never pulled a trans or motor.
this is actually my gf's vehicle so at most ill be able to have it down for 2-3 days at MAX

most shops i call insist that i rebuild the trans for $2500 then get offended by saying i only want to change the converter then give me a wild price of $1100

for $200 i can get a decent converter...
the real question is is it really $900 worth of labor????
or is it something a novice wrencher can handle over the course of a day or two....plus she will be around so ill have a little helper
on the plus side it is a 2WD so im thinking i may be able to just slide the trans back far enough to r&r the converter...?

if its something fairly simple any walk through links/vids would be a huge help

here is the on going thread from when i bought the jeep
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/bo...rst-xj-241192/

and a pic.

 

If the torque converter actually failed the shrapnel is all through the transmission and cooler as well, it's toast.

 

Just pull tranny and drop seeing its 2wd. converter pulls right out. Getting it back in is trickey deff replace front seal and fub some fluid on neck of converter and pour some fluid in converter b4 install....

 

X2.....

 

converter has NOT failed.

the converter shudders right around lockup in 4th but only for a VERY short period of time. (sounds like running on a rumble strip)

took it to a shop to have it diagnosed and they hooked up their scanning equipment to confirm via a test drive.

 

Then that shop probably presented you with an estimate, what was that estimate for exactly?

 

As the plot thickens...

 

he said it would be a gamble to just change the converter. he said that he would recommend since the vehicle has 150k miles on it that i have him rebuild the trans which would include a new converter. that would run me $2400-2500

i said well what about just changing the converter and he said well we could do that but it would be around $1100

 

let me again say that the truck drives great in all conditions its only around 40-50mph in 4th when the converter locks up it gives that shudder.

if we drop it down a gear or get above 50 before it locks up in 4th then there is no shudder and everything feels good.

there is no hiccups or slipping in gear at all

 

On a 2WD, the job would be pretty easy. You will need to drop the transmission down to be able to get the torque converter off. Check up on the net, I believe there is a specific way the converter comes off and goes back on. You need a transmission jack for sure. And you need a way to support the back of the engine when you pull this loose. There are two bolts on the top of the bell housing that are kind of a pain without the right tools. Check youtube. There should be good videos there that will walk you through the process. If a new converter is only $200 you are not out much if the trans ultimately goes down or if this doesn't fix the problem. Good luck with the repair.

 

Just a few tips not mentioned. Block or jack stand rig up as high as you can with what you have. Then put a shoulder into the side of rig and push, if it doesn't fall over your good to go .

Good floor jack that reaches the trans pan with rig jacked up. A piece of 1/2" plywood about 12"x12" put between jack and trans pan. You'll need another jack and wood to hold engine up by flat spot on oil pan. Trans jack adapter is ideal, but not necessary by any means. Key to plywood method is holding tail shaft when bolts are removed, front is much heavier. I have done atleast 7 trannies this way, most latter ones with just myself. 2 people is easier so one can lift and lower jacks while you hold and line up bolt holes.

Torque converter, get it seated in all the way on ground then put wire or rope criss crossing bell housing bolt holes to keep converter from sliding out while installing. Take out rope when your jacked up and close to bolting it up.

Top bolt removal. With dipstick tube, starter, oil lines, wiring, trans mount, etc. etc removed, put jack and wood under trans pan. Now remove cross member, lower trans and motor a few inches until you can get a line of site on bolts. I use a 36" extension and ratchet from the tail shaft area, air ratchet is nice if you have one. Once you get the tough bolts out jack back up and block up motor from falling backwards. Slide back trans and jack, lower.

If you do it outside put a sheet of plywood down so jack rolls easily.

Trans oil lines, use the fingers of a vinyl glove. Cut off glove finger slide over end of line and zip tie. Cause the only time it will drip is when your eyeball is under it .

PS. that dipstick tube is a pain to get off.

 

I would not be changing that converter I think you are barking up the wrong tree. A multitude of things affect shift point and there are several other things that can be done first. You may change it only to find you have the same issue.
I would look at changing your solenoids and governor pressure sensor, specifically I think there is one for the converter lock up, also the speed sensor, several fluid changes, and throttle cable adjustment. What is also important is line pressure and TV cable adjust does affect that BUT you should not rely on that to alter line pressure, on the 42re there is an actual adjust for line pressure inside and not sure about AW4 but there might well be. However I would do the solenoids and fluid filter work first.
Also, believe it or not, the Throttle position sensor has a lot to do with it and is an easy change.
Check ebay for sensors and specifically the 3 solenoids.

 

thanks man!

thanks man this is a huge help.
its making it seem like i could certainly do it myself with a little help from the GF if i need.

another question i have is how hard is it to change the front seal?
and should i do this while i already have the converter out even if the current seal isnt leaking?


i appreciate the post but ive already done all those things you mentioned.
i noted them in the thread link i posted above the picture.

 

well in case anyone was following this thread i took the jeep to a shop who only charged me $350 in labor to change over the converter.

presto change-o it drives like it should now with no rogue vibrations at any speed.

 

Great, I was just about to post that labor on that should be in the $300 range.