fritznbud

Hello all Jeepers, '98 Cherokee here, had a slight wobble and a dragging feeling at the right front wheel. Took off the wheel, removed cotter pin and WOW!!! How many gorillas does it take to loosen that nut? Is Jeep the one and only auto manufacturer that calls for 200 ft. lbs torque on that nut? After a red torching and 3 hours of hammering, tried to cut off the nut but could only cut 1/2 way into it. Put the tire back on and will drive it 'till the wheel locks up if i cant get the castle nut off. Any suggestions except for junking it when she locks up? Thanks

wingless

Welcome to the forum.

Mine is specified for 175 ft-lbs of torque on that nut.

When I took mine apart, all I did was slide a pipe over my breaker bar and lean on it w/ my full size body. They came right apart.

Now that yours has all the disassembly effort, I would discard / replace ALL of those parts and properly assemble new parts to the FSM specifications, using appropriate torque wrenches.

fritznbud

Thank you Wingless, No way would i have even thought of torquing down a nut mashing a wheel bearing. Snug them up and insert cotter pin on ALL vehicles. Thanks for confirming 175 ft lbs as i read that when i googled my problem, and would not believe it....rear axle, maybe, but a front spindle? This is all buttoned back up, drove it 5 or 6 miles with no problems, no vibration or wheel dragging. Also, i have to chuckle....38mm socket for that nut. Who has one in their tool box?? A plumber maybe? Thanks again, i am a classic car guy, i drive a 1930 model A, '55 Chevy or my '64 Chevelle and own a plastic worthless '04 VW that i enjoy beating the crap out of. Never thought after 14 years of Jeep ownership that i would feel the same way about this Cherokee as i do for my dear new "beat"le. If i cant work on it, it goes to the dump as this will go when the problem re-occurs.

jordan96xj

1/2" breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe attached should take care of it, even if it is upwards of 300 ft/lbs of torque. Sometimes when they are factory, they are hard to break the first time, but after that, they have been very easy.

Perhaps a prior owner over did it? That can also lead to a shorter lifespan for the hub.

You could drive it by any shop and have them just get it free for you. Providing, you have not mangled the bolt beyond recognition.

jordan96xj

Wait, did you find an actual castle nut on your axle? Should be a normal nut with a special thin washer and thin castle-like retainer that fits over the nut and locked with a cotter pin.

wingless

When I did mine, I installed new CV joint shafts, new wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and pads. I also used new Dorman 618-027 washers and new Dorman 615-149 retainers.

fritznbud

Nice Wingless! I just did that job on my '64 Chevelle. Not enough crush washers to stop a weep for me at the banjo bolts, seems the caliper rebuilders are not the best at doing their job. Lots of horror stories out there about hairline cracks and rough fittings. My brakes look great after 145K miles and 15 years on my Jeep. Posted in craigslist for $1900. I dont do major ft lbs....too old and weak for gorilla work. I would remove wheel, drop Jeep to the ground, attach 38mm socket on breaker bar, put Jeep in gear and throttle it to bust that nut loose. One man band here, no assistants.

tacklebox

38mm on the air ratchet... mine came right off


Re-installed to spec with torque wrench. Easy peasy

fb97xj1

I thought that nut was a 36mm?

fritznbud

Quick sell today for $1800, and the fella got 15 miles before the brakes started dragging. Calipers not releasing, IMO. Told him to bleed them, or replace the pair. He drove it another 40 miles, so it couldn't be that bad, said the wheels were hot when he got home.....Thanks for all the replies. Farewell.

wingless

Bye.

Come back and visit...

Could be the pads hanging up in notches in the knuckles. A common repair is to fill-in the notches w/ welding, then grinding smooth.

fritznbud

Will do, Wingless! I was feeling bad about the situation until i see that calipers are $34 each, but i suspect the 18" or so rubber brake line could be collapsing after 19 years. Not letting the pads retract. Either way, it's gone and i took a C note off the price, so it's all good.

peligro113

Not related to the topic but did you just buy this XJ? I was looking on craigslist yesterday and saw that it was for sale. Nice looking XJ.

caged

damn, that's one clean beauty of a specimen, right there.


fella got a smokin deal.

fritznbud

Peligro, Yessir, I was the seller of this Jeep. Posted it late tuesday night and sold it at 4pm yesterday. Thanks all for the compliments, i was feeling guilty over the brake issue, but it was one fine specimen. Original paint and the factory pin stripe was still hanging on. Retail is $2775 so after tires and brakes, he will be real close to that figure invested.