I have a 98 with the 4.0. I was told that it was just rebuilt. It has been a downhill starting routine since I bought it 3 weeks ago. But it always started.
Yesterday on the I74 bridge over the Mississippi it stalled! Yikes! It started right back up and I wasn't a traffic jam.I proceeded to stall several times after that. Always starting right back up. Today on the way to Advance Auto it stalled and would not restart. I think it's the stator or coil? anyone else have an opinion before I spend another $75 - $125.00?

 

did you run a test on fuel system?

 

stalling and then restarting. Does it run fine after it restarts or does it stumble and backfire through the intake?

The 3 most common problems related to stalling with successful restart are as follows. Crank sensor, cam sensor(a.k.a. pick up coil) and the coil.
1996-98 had issues with the pcm/ecm loosing pickup coil reference after it warmed up, if you grap the wires to the pcm (located on the passenger side firewall and wiggle them while the engine in running , does it stall?

Did you pull and codes yet Like key code "42" or P0351? If you did you will need a multimeter to verify if the problem is the coil or the pcm.
Let us me know if you did by pm if you like. I have some dianostic trees you can view to test that pcm and coil driver circuit.
Professional opinion....this is not a fuel issue you are describing

 

I agree there is not a fuel problem. I starts right up while I'm still coasting down the road. Until today, I had to wait an hour to restart. Then I drove it home without a problem.

 

Bump

 

fuel pressure regulator? idk i have a 96 but my 2000 astro van had a similar problem and it was the fuel pressure regulator. i think cherokees should have 40-46psi at the fuel rail. my astro needed about 60 and it had a clogged regulator and was only pushing about 45 and had similar problems

 

don't bump the thread just to keep it going, get out there and check the things mentioned

 

When it "stalls", does it do it really smoothly as though you had shut it off with the key, or does it stutter?

If it's smooth, it probably the crank sensor. Should be around $80. Kind of a pain to get to, it's on the bellhousing in the back.

 

deffinately something your ecm uses for spark reference but figuring out what is the hard part...but of course get out there and test stuff instead of sitting on the forum waiting for us to do it for you...i would go to advanced or autozone buy a $25.99 innova multimeter and a spark checker and a haynes manual which well have resistance tests and specifications for voltage and start testing stuff

 

Cool, someone on here with a brain.

 

Ok, I do have a job so some of my time is unavailable. I do have a volt/amp meter. I tested the coil and it's OK. Tested the stator? weird! it tested bad but sometimes I get a good reading? Any way, The engine just shuts off, the tach drops to 0 and I am coasting? It usually starts right back up. I did put in a new stator, cap and rotor tonight. I'll drive it tomorrow.

 

I replaced the Stator last night. It started and ran like new this morning. All morning long I drove about 80 miles. Then going to lunch it died again! Now I have a check engine light and it is running, stopping, lurching, stalling and just plain aggravating! But, it did get me home when I opened the hood and let cool air in and coasted down hill with the engine off. I have to take my son to Cub scouts now. I will check the wiring to the PCM later tonight.

 

Replace the CPS(crankshaft pos. sensor), not the sync pulse(stator), they rarely go.

 

x8 on the crankshaft position sensor. Common problem on XJs - exactly your symptoms

 

Thanks for the help. I'm out of town for a few days and I'll replace the CPS next Tuesday.