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Burping the Renix 4.0, how many times?!

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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by seww
Hehe you see...
Oh well, time for an evening snack and then bed... Up at 6 to go to work.. bah, don't feel like spending another week in front of the laptop.

Oh well, might not be a bad week, might go and buy me a 5.2 L ZJ!
Have a good night nice talking to ya keep warm ....
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Have a good night nice talking to ya keep warm ....
Wont happen in the Jeep

You too bro!
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 08:05 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by seww
Well, if we would go into Economics or Accounting or SAP, then I probably know a bit more than most people here...
I thought all of us here were brilliant economists and shrewd accountants (tight ***** bean counters)...........got to be when u drive a XJ, no? Driving a XJ requires both fiscal and physical savvy.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 08:16 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I thought all of us here were brilliant economists and shrewd accountants (tight ***** bean counters)...........got to be when u drive a XJ, no? Driving a XJ requires both fiscal and physical savvy.
Well I sure am missing the physical savvy:ness...
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #20  
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Speaking of nothing, think I just called in a -97 XJ with 82k miles on the meter...
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #21  
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Park facing downhill, take the cap off of the coolant bottle, and let it run for about 15 minutes. That's the way I burp my 88 XJ.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 88CherokeeKid
Park facing downhill, take the cap off of the coolant bottle, and let it run for about 15 minutes. That's the way I burp my 88 XJ.
Hmm thanks mate, will try that tomorrow, almost bed time here!
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:47 PM
  #23  
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While parking nose end downhill,jack the rear of the jeep up as high as you can go with the wheels chocked and try the sensor and the end of the block bleed.

It worked for my renix when I flushed my coolant a month back,let me know how it works for ya
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 123456bmx
While parking nose end downhill,jack the rear of the jeep up as high as you can go with the wheels chocked and try the sensor and the end of the block bleed.

It worked for my renix when I flushed my coolant a month back,let me know how it works for ya
Well I've done this several times. Jack it, open temp sensor, air out til coolant comes. Go take a drive, let cool and then I can let more air out.
It just never ends!

Haven't done it now for a day, will do tomorrow. Still no overheat but it sure runs too cool. And not stable at all but rises and falls all the time while driving...
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #25  
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Well burped her again after a longer drive in town. Of course let her cool down first.
No air coming out of the temp sensor, only some coolant.
Opened the cap, turned her on and let idle til t-stat opened. Cap back on and idled for another opening of t-stat.
Turned her off and gonna let her cool now, then check the temp sensor again..
Still butt up in the air!
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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Doesn't air in a liquid naturally rise to the highest point? Isn't the front of the motor (head) higher than the rear? Wouldn't air in the system not only rise but also move/be pushed by flowing coolant? Doesn't coolant (and air) exit the front of the head/motor the moment the motor starts? Seems to me it would be more logical to get the front up higher (not the rear), no?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 03:02 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Doesn't air in a liquid naturally rise to the highest point? Isn't the front of the motor (head) higher than the rear? Wouldn't air in the system not only rise but also move/be pushed by flowing coolant? Doesn't coolant (and air) exit the front of the head/motor the moment the motor starts? Seems to me it would be more logical to get the front up higher (not the rear), no?
But where can the air escape in the front of the engine?
As I understand, the reason to rise the back is to get tha back of the block to the highest point. So the temp sensor will be at that point.

This is a bit annoying, the temperature will not stabilize. Hopefully just air in there but Im not sure how much it still could be! Getting a bit frustrated over here...
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 06:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by seww
But where can the air escape in the front of the engine?
As I understand, the reason to rise the back is to get tha back of the block to the highest point. So the temp sensor will be at that point.

This is a bit annoying, the temperature will not stabilize. Hopefully just air in there but Im not sure how much it still could be! Getting a bit frustrated over here...
Coolant (and any air) exits the front of the head (the high end) via the 2 hoses (heater hose and rad hose) attached to the t-stat cover the moment the motor starts. Coolant/air always flow thru the heater hose and also flow thru the rad hose when the stat opens. No air will be removed from the system unless the motor is running. U can't run the motor with the sending unit removed without having a geyser of coolant everywhere. Air naturally migrates to and escapes from the plastic bottle while coolant remains.

Last edited by djb383; Jan 15, 2013 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by djb383

Coolant (and any air) exits the front of the head (the high end) via the 2 hoses (heater hose and rad hose) attached to the t-stat cover the moment the motor starts. Coolant/air always flow thru the heater hose and also flow thru the rad hose when the stat opens. No air will be removed from the system unless the motor is running. U can't run the motor with the sending unit removed without having a geyser of coolant everywhere. Air naturally migrates to and escapes from the plastic bottle while coolant remains.
Kewl, will try this tonight!
Thanks fellow jeep brother
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 01:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Coolant (and any air) exits the front of the head (the high end) via the 2 hoses (heater hose and rad hose) attached to the t-stat cover the moment the motor starts. Coolant/air always flow thru the heater hose and also flow thru the rad hose when the stat opens. No air will be removed from the system unless the motor is running. U can't run the motor with the sending unit removed without having a geyser of coolant everywhere. Air naturally migrates to and escapes from the plastic bottle while coolant remains.
Hey again,
So I tried this tonight. Drove her for a bit til she got all warm and such. Parked in a hill, nose up. Let her idle, went out and removed the cap from the expansion tank. Idled for a good 15 minutes I think, and it looked like there where bubbles coming out, and at least one big one.
I pressed the throttle a bit and in the end it looked like no more bubbles came, and only coolant were pumping.
Jumped inside, drove for a bit.

I have more heat now than a few weeks ago. It's -20 Celsius outside now, and I had decent/good heat out of the defrost setting. A few weeks ago, I had low heat at -10, so good improvement.
Not quite stable engine temp and low heat in Heat and Vent setting. Weird.

For fun I got into the Audi A6 1.9 TDI we have. Drove for a few minutes and the heat was way hotter! And that was before engine temp was reached. So something ain't right...

Ideas on where to go now? Feels like I'm on the right track but kind of stuck...
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