Budget Builds: What Junkyard Parts Will Fit Cherokee?
#2417
#2418
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Didn't see anyone mention these but here are a couple of things that fit:
-seat back adjustment lever from a 93 fits in the 89 if your handle broke off like mine did (didnt even know I had one until I noticed there was one in the passenger seat and not the drivers. It's a PITA to get off though so be very careful)
-seat back adjustment lever from a 93 fits in the 89 if your handle broke off like mine did (didnt even know I had one until I noticed there was one in the passenger seat and not the drivers. It's a PITA to get off though so be very careful)
Last edited by LiamLikeNeeson; 08-26-2017 at 12:39 PM.
#2420
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Location: Aurora CO
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
toyota a340e is also a transmission that easily swaps in to the xjs with the aw4, you can also pull the trans temp sensor from some toyotas that had it and swap it in to pre 96 xjs with the aw4
#2421
No, I don't lick fish.
#2422
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I found a set of 2017 JK Rubicon mono shocks and grabbed them for $100 a few weeks ago. I have a 2" lift on my xj.
I'm trying to put them on right now and I don't think they're going to work. The rears are definitely longer then the Rusty's cheapo shocks I have now which are barely small enough - the front ones bottom out
Does anybody know if the JK Rubicons shocks should work with 2" lift? What years? Thanks!
----
Edit - Ok I got some numbers from here and here and my own measurements confirm.
OEM JK Rubicon red shocks
Front: 14.75"/22.75"/8.00"
Rear:14.63"/23.13"/8.50"
Rusty's RX100 hydro shocks
Front: 14.64"/24.54"/9.9" (rx-27)
Rear: 14.17"/23.07"/8.9" (rx-64)
(compressed/extended/travel)
Guess I answered my own question. Looks like they will cold
I'm trying to put them on right now and I don't think they're going to work. The rears are definitely longer then the Rusty's cheapo shocks I have now which are barely small enough - the front ones bottom out
Does anybody know if the JK Rubicons shocks should work with 2" lift? What years? Thanks!
----
Edit - Ok I got some numbers from here and here and my own measurements confirm.
OEM JK Rubicon red shocks
Front: 14.75"/22.75"/8.00"
Rear:14.63"/23.13"/8.50"
Rusty's RX100 hydro shocks
Front: 14.64"/24.54"/9.9" (rx-27)
Rear: 14.17"/23.07"/8.9" (rx-64)
(compressed/extended/travel)
Guess I answered my own question. Looks like they will cold
Last edited by mannydantyla; 03-07-2018 at 08:59 AM.
#2423
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Location: Aurora CO
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I found a set of 2017 JK Rubicon mono shocks and grabbed them for $100 a few weeks ago. I have a 2" lift on my xj.
I'm trying to put them on right now and I don't think they're going to work. The rears are definitely longer then the Rusty's cheapo shocks I have now which are barely small enough - the front ones bottom out
Does anybody know if the JK Rubicons shocks should work with 2" lift? What years? Thanks!
----
Edit - Ok I got some numbers from here and here and my own measurements confirm.
OEK JK Rubicon red shocks
Front: 14.75"/22.75"/8.00"
Rear:14.63"/23.13"/8.50"
Rusty's RX100 hydro shocks
Front: 14.64"/24.54"/9.9" (rx-27)
Rear: 14.17"/23.07"/8.9" (rx-64)
(compressed/extended/travel)
I guess they will work
I'm trying to put them on right now and I don't think they're going to work. The rears are definitely longer then the Rusty's cheapo shocks I have now which are barely small enough - the front ones bottom out
Does anybody know if the JK Rubicons shocks should work with 2" lift? What years? Thanks!
----
Edit - Ok I got some numbers from here and here and my own measurements confirm.
OEK JK Rubicon red shocks
Front: 14.75"/22.75"/8.00"
Rear:14.63"/23.13"/8.50"
Rusty's RX100 hydro shocks
Front: 14.64"/24.54"/9.9" (rx-27)
Rear: 14.17"/23.07"/8.9" (rx-64)
(compressed/extended/travel)
I guess they will work
#2425
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks guys!
It seems I need to pull out the sleeve in the bottom bushings, at least for the rear ones.
Either that or the old sleeves have fuzed to the studs on the rear axle.
Which is it?
Edit: alright it's definitely welded on there and I need to get the metal sleeve out of the JK shocks. How the hell am I supposed to do that?? I just broke my bench vice trying with a set of sockets... this might be a job for a local shop.
It seems I need to pull out the sleeve in the bottom bushings, at least for the rear ones.
Either that or the old sleeves have fuzed to the studs on the rear axle.
Which is it?
Edit: alright it's definitely welded on there and I need to get the metal sleeve out of the JK shocks. How the hell am I supposed to do that?? I just broke my bench vice trying with a set of sockets... this might be a job for a local shop.
Last edited by mannydantyla; 03-01-2018 at 06:32 PM.
#2426
No, I don't lick fish.
Thanks guys!
It seems I need to pull out the sleeve in the bottom bushings, at least for the rear ones.
Either that or the old sleeves have fuzed to the studs on the rear axle.
Which is it?
Edit: alright it's definitely welded on there and I need to get the metal sleeve out of the JK shocks. How the hell am I supposed to do that?? I just broke my bench vice trying with a set of sockets... this might be a job for a local shop.
It seems I need to pull out the sleeve in the bottom bushings, at least for the rear ones.
Either that or the old sleeves have fuzed to the studs on the rear axle.
Which is it?
Edit: alright it's definitely welded on there and I need to get the metal sleeve out of the JK shocks. How the hell am I supposed to do that?? I just broke my bench vice trying with a set of sockets... this might be a job for a local shop.
#2427
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
Posts: 391
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6 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hydraulic press or ball joint removal tool should do the job. You can rent the ball joint remover from your local auto parts store. If you have another bench vice or can fix yours, just mount the ball joint remover in the jaws of the vice, then use an impact gun or long-handled ratchet to crank down the plunger of the ball joint remover and press the sleeves and bushings right out.
The bench vice didn't really break, the crank just bent a little, BTW.
#2428
No, I don't lick fish.
Still works though, just hard to crank down when the jaws get close together.
#2429
Hatch
Hey guys for the sake of everyone doing budget junkyard builds I was wondering what parts from other vehicles will fit an XJ with little or no modification that will help the performance/offroad capabilities of the XJ....feel free to post your mods and links to build threads if you have them.....this thread is to help new guys on a budget get started
***note that these are not all bolt in mods, but can be done by most who are mechanically inclined with the right tools
Here is the latest re-cap of what we have found:
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle
Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts
7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in
8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function)
Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar
10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer
Engine/Transmission/T-case:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A (for 1991 and newer XJ's).
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)
Body/Interior/Armor:
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's
*feel free to ask questions about any of these mods
**Also Blazin Den has made a list of links to build threads for us! Recap with Links!
***Here is the Link to the thread on Jeepforum.com where most of this info came from Budget Builds: What Junkyard parts will fit an XJ?
***note that these are not all bolt in mods, but can be done by most who are mechanically inclined with the right tools
Here is the latest re-cap of what we have found:
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm
8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer
9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle
Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts
7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in
8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function)
Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)
9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar
10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer
Engine/Transmission/T-case:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A (for 1991 and newer XJ's).
4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)
Body/Interior/Armor:
1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in
3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!
8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's)
10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's
*feel free to ask questions about any of these mods
**Also Blazin Den has made a list of links to build threads for us! Recap with Links!
***Here is the Link to the thread on Jeepforum.com where most of this info came from Budget Builds: What Junkyard parts will fit an XJ?