You should just do this anyways.

All of it can be done at home. Whether or not YOU can do it, remains to be seen.

Number one is possible.
Number 2...use the grinder. Not a dremel. Doing so would be like going around the block to get next door...
Number 3...
...well let's just say JB weld ought to be banned from automotive repair altogether.
I highly suggest not using an air chisel in your case. It'll punch right through that cancer, LOL

Use a grinder and cutoff wheel at the clamp behind the cat, and every hangar after that, and any place from the muffler to the back that gets in the way. Remove the tumors. Get a new STAINLESS muffler of good quality, and new tailpipe, that has the hangars installed. Get new clamps for the cat, and post-muffler connections. Re-install. Bob's your uncle. After reading this, go back up to my first quote, and re-read that. Then take it to a shop. It will only cost you 10K, and you'll need a lift to do it anyways, so just trying to save you the hassle...

 

Right here^^^^^ I think is the best way to do it. A cutoff wheel will go through that like butter.

 

One more thing...wash your undercarriage once in a while...

 

I would inspect the exhaust to determine if it's stainless or regular steel. Steel exhaust doesn't weld all that well with stainless, unless it's done correctly. I've had this type of weld (done by professional exhaust shops) fail in the past. Welds hold better if your're welding the same type of metal.

If the exhaust system hasn't been damaged and twisted badly, I would use clamps.

I can' see the rest of the exhaust. From the pics it appears you should be able to fix it yourself, by grinding, cutting or unbolting the existing clamps and installing a new muffler. Making certain the rest of the exhaust is lined up and hanging correctly.
When using clamps it's important that the inner and outer pipes fit together snug and there is enough pipe material before installing the clamps.

 

roninofako,

I will take your advice to bring it to the shop.
I have an appointment for Wed.

I have ordered the Walker $40 muffler and $60 tailpipe.
Thanks for the advice, everyone!

 

 

XJ factory exhausts were galvanized steel, not stainless steel, but the factory exhausts did hold up fairly well (though not as good as stainless would have). Yes, AMC/Chrysler cheaped out, not like that should be a surprise to anyone.


Absolutely, but Mopar is charging over $500 for a muffler/tailpipe assembly that will run you about $50 with aftermarket parts (or around $150 for stainless steel). If the factory piping is still in good shape it makes sense to use as much of it as you can since it is likely better than what you will find on the aftermarket unless you spend a lot, but given the cost of factory replacements it doesn't make much sense you buy new OE exhaust parts (you can get a really nice all stainless cat back system for less than the cost of an OE galvanized muffler & tailpipe).

 

I bought all the parts today. Tailpipe, muffler, and 2 1/4 clamps.

But, like Charlie Brown kicking the football, I was stupid enough to see if I could work on this car myself. Again.
I did get the clamp off with my Dremel, so that was a small victory.

I think part of the clamp is still welded onto the pipes!
You can see the outline of the 2 rails..

What is funny is that it looks like it will crumble apart, but I was hammering at this joint, and it's solid as a rock.
The cat is fully welded to the muffler. I will have a professional finish the job, like usual.
I can't wait to see how a trained professional gets them apart!

 

Has any mass manufacturer actually produced a car with a stainless steel exhaust?

 

Is that a small Tack weld? or just rust, I cant really make it out.
It looks to me like it has a small tack weld there.

 

Many production cars (especially newer ones) have stainless steel exhausts. My 2013 Mustang GT has a full stainless steel exhaust.

 

I don't know my OEM exhaust is stainless. Appears really old, rusted and pitted. A few years ago I was thinking of replacing the tail-pipe. An exhaust shop told me with all the rust, pitting, etc. the exhaust had a lot of life left to it because it's stainless.

I eventually replaced the entire exhaust with aftermarket OE-fit steel because the down-pipe and tail-pipe became damaged. The cat and muffler also needed replacement. Total cost for the front & tail pipes, cat, muffler, rear hanger and exhaust clamps was approx. ~$250.00. Took me somewhere between 30 to 45 mins. removing old exhaust, fitting and clamping in the new exhaust parts.

When I have the time I'm planning on repairing the damaged OEM stainless front and tail-pipe.

Here's one site I've purchased exhaust parts from before that carries a line of partial exhaust systems, individual parts , hardware and repair material. Also carries an exhaust system for the XJ. Prices are good but shipping can become high.

http://performance-curve.com

 

For about $275.00 you can fab a stainless exhaust like my pictures show.

 

Looks like rust scale to me...
You have NO idea who you're dealing with...LOL

 

It was VERY VERY good advice to take this job to a professional.
There is no way I could have done this at home.

The mechanic had to use a Sawzall to hack off the exhaust.
The car was on the lift to do that.

He had to cut pretty close to the cat, and he used a massive industrial tube flaring machine to fab up the cat to muffler connector pipe.
No way to do that at home.

He then had to weld both sides back on.
Welding is out of reach for most backyard mechanics.

I'm so glad I didn't attempt this at home.
Beginners, definitely leave the Jeep exhaust work for the experts!
There is a reason these guys make bank.