Break Jobs and the Correct Parts
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 124
Likes: 5
From: Etowah, North Carolina
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Stright 6
Break Jobs and the Correct Parts
Planning for somefirst time break work on my 1999 Cherokee Classic, mfg. date 11/98 so I calledAdvantage Auto Parts looking for rotors, pads, drums, and shoes and it went something like this.
Rotors. Do you need overall height of 3 1/16” or 33/16?
Pads. May have had the same question about size.
Drums, Shoes. do you need 9” or 10”?
Shoe Spring Kit. Do you need manual or autoadjusting?
I offered up my vinnumber but the sales guy said that would not help him.
My question is how can I plan and but the correct parts without taking all apart and then going tobuy?
Rotors. Do you need overall height of 3 1/16” or 33/16?
Pads. May have had the same question about size.
Drums, Shoes. do you need 9” or 10”?
Shoe Spring Kit. Do you need manual or autoadjusting?
I offered up my vinnumber but the sales guy said that would not help him.
My question is how can I plan and but the correct parts without taking all apart and then going tobuy?
Last edited by NCDON; Oct 8, 2013 at 03:47 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 44
From: Gainesville GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a very easy answer for you
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f71/di...on-kit-159484/
Zero guess work about what you need to buy.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f71/di...on-kit-159484/
Zero guess work about what you need to buy.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 888
Likes: 1
From: Rockford, IL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a very easy answer for you
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f71/di...on-kit-159484/
Zero guess work about what you need to buy.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f71/di...on-kit-159484/
Zero guess work about what you need to buy.
Op I recently replaced my rotors. I had to buy both sizes and return the ones that weren't the correct size. I remember finding a few threads that explain which you need. Just google "which size rotors do I need for 99 xj"
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Rochester, MIchigan
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
99 was changeover year between cast and composite rotors...take yours off and measure them to be sure. Measure the drums as well. This way you will be sure to get the right parts the first time. 
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 2
From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
For drums, if you have smooth outer diameter you will have 9", if you have cooling fins running along the outer diameter you should have the 10". They will also be marked as Maximum machining diameter of something like 10.0x inches for the 10 inch ones, I think that is ring around the outer front edge.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Planning for somefirst time break work on my 1999 Cherokee Classic, mfg. date 11/98 so I calledAdvantage Auto Parts looking for rotors, pads, drums, and shoes and it went something like this.
Rotors. Do you need overall height of 3 1/16” or 33/16?
Pads. May have had the same question about size.
Drums, Shoes. do you need 9” or 10”?
Shoe Spring Kit. Do you need manual or autoadjusting?
I offered up my vinnumber but the sales guy said that would not help him.
My question is how can I plan and but the correct parts without taking all apart and then going tobuy?
Rotors. Do you need overall height of 3 1/16” or 33/16?
Pads. May have had the same question about size.
Drums, Shoes. do you need 9” or 10”?
Shoe Spring Kit. Do you need manual or autoadjusting?
I offered up my vinnumber but the sales guy said that would not help him.
My question is how can I plan and but the correct parts without taking all apart and then going tobuy?
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Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Marshfield, Missouri
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
for drums, take one of your rear wheels of. pull the drum off and measure the longer pad. one is longer than the other. that will give you the size you need.
also measure the width of the pads and measure the drum itself.
measure the front rotors and for pads I always get the better of the usual three options. while price is more, you get better brakes. cheaper brakes tend to become smooth while breaking in and will squeel.
Do not forget to buy a thing of antisieze. or some brake lube.
use librally on the front caliper guide pins, but make sure you clean them first with a wire wheel or wire brush. lube the rubber guide pin guide as well.
put some on the new pads(not the surface that touches the rotor!) but on the edges that come into direct contact with the caliper itself.
Also when you get new drums and rotors make sure before you install them to hose them down with brake cleaner as they are coated in a rust inhibitor! its oil based and will affect the preformance of your brakes!
things you will need for sure are:
brake cleaner two to 3 cans
wire wheel, or wire brush
rubber gloves(optional, but highly recomended)
rags
a rear drum multi tool! yes you will thank me later!!!! just get one their 10 bucks!
c clamp for pushing the front caliper piston back in.
a camera- cause you will want to take pictures of EVERYTHING before you tear it apart. again this is a must IMHO take pictures of everything more than once and from different angles.
a case of beer- no need to explain
jack stands
patience.
for the rear to know if there manual or auto agjust while you have the drum off look at the base of the shoes. in between there will be what looks like a wheel with teeth on it and an armature beside it. if it has that its an auto adjust. if its just a hex hed bolt its manual. auto adjusters need to be taken apart, inspected and cleaned and put back together with anti seize. these operate when the vehicle is reversed. at least when there working properly.
before you do anything with any brakes hose them down to clear any dust or grease. some pads contained aspestos which we all know is back.
also when doing the drums check your wheel cylinders. if you notice wet brake fluid replace them. be careful with them if not leaking as you can damage them easily. if you have a leaky one keep the push rods because the new ones generally do not come with them(why I dont know)
also check your brake hoses up front for cracks or buldges. if you see one replace it!
most overlooked things on vehicles are tires and brakes. they are also the most important things on a vehicle!
brake jobs usually for me have been one of those deals where you better be prepaired to replace more than you expected! cant tell you how many times Ive started a "yeah Ima change the pads this weekend" to a full blown brake system rebuild!
Also before you drive the thing after the job is done, get in the vehicle start it and push the brake several times to the floor to set the new brakes before you take off!
I highly suggest watching the following! Eric is an ASE certified, experienced mechanic who knows his stuff!!! he has tons of videos for future reference!
heres a vid on rear drums
here is one on front brakes
also measure the width of the pads and measure the drum itself.
measure the front rotors and for pads I always get the better of the usual three options. while price is more, you get better brakes. cheaper brakes tend to become smooth while breaking in and will squeel.
Do not forget to buy a thing of antisieze. or some brake lube.
use librally on the front caliper guide pins, but make sure you clean them first with a wire wheel or wire brush. lube the rubber guide pin guide as well.
put some on the new pads(not the surface that touches the rotor!) but on the edges that come into direct contact with the caliper itself.
Also when you get new drums and rotors make sure before you install them to hose them down with brake cleaner as they are coated in a rust inhibitor! its oil based and will affect the preformance of your brakes!
things you will need for sure are:
brake cleaner two to 3 cans
wire wheel, or wire brush
rubber gloves(optional, but highly recomended)
rags
a rear drum multi tool! yes you will thank me later!!!! just get one their 10 bucks!
c clamp for pushing the front caliper piston back in.
a camera- cause you will want to take pictures of EVERYTHING before you tear it apart. again this is a must IMHO take pictures of everything more than once and from different angles.
a case of beer- no need to explain
jack stands
patience.
for the rear to know if there manual or auto agjust while you have the drum off look at the base of the shoes. in between there will be what looks like a wheel with teeth on it and an armature beside it. if it has that its an auto adjust. if its just a hex hed bolt its manual. auto adjusters need to be taken apart, inspected and cleaned and put back together with anti seize. these operate when the vehicle is reversed. at least when there working properly.
before you do anything with any brakes hose them down to clear any dust or grease. some pads contained aspestos which we all know is back.
also when doing the drums check your wheel cylinders. if you notice wet brake fluid replace them. be careful with them if not leaking as you can damage them easily. if you have a leaky one keep the push rods because the new ones generally do not come with them(why I dont know)
also check your brake hoses up front for cracks or buldges. if you see one replace it!
most overlooked things on vehicles are tires and brakes. they are also the most important things on a vehicle!
brake jobs usually for me have been one of those deals where you better be prepaired to replace more than you expected! cant tell you how many times Ive started a "yeah Ima change the pads this weekend" to a full blown brake system rebuild!
Also before you drive the thing after the job is done, get in the vehicle start it and push the brake several times to the floor to set the new brakes before you take off!
I highly suggest watching the following! Eric is an ASE certified, experienced mechanic who knows his stuff!!! he has tons of videos for future reference!
heres a vid on rear drums
here is one on front brakes
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 124
Likes: 5
From: Etowah, North Carolina
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Stright 6
CODYKRR, Thank you, GREAT information will be very helpful to the project.
Thanks to all
Don
Thanks to all
Don
for drums, take one of your rear wheels of. pull the drum off and measure the longer pad. one is longer than the other. that will give you the size you need.
also measure the width of the pads and measure the drum itself.
measure the front rotors and for pads I always get the better of the usual three options. while price is more, you get better brakes. cheaper brakes tend to become smooth while breaking in and will squeel.
Do not forget to buy a thing of antisieze. or some brake lube.
use librally on the front caliper guide pins, but make sure you clean them first with a wire wheel or wire brush. lube the rubber guide pin guide as well.
put some on the new pads(not the surface that touches the rotor!) but on the edges that come into direct contact with the caliper itself.
Also when you get new drums and rotors make sure before you install them to hose them down with brake cleaner as they are coated in a rust inhibitor! its oil based and will affect the preformance of your brakes!
things you will need for sure are:
brake cleaner two to 3 cans
wire wheel, or wire brush
rubber gloves(optional, but highly recomended)
rags
a rear drum multi tool! yes you will thank me later!!!! just get one their 10 bucks!
c clamp for pushing the front caliper piston back in.
a camera- cause you will want to take pictures of EVERYTHING before you tear it apart. again this is a must IMHO take pictures of everything more than once and from different angles.
a case of beer- no need to explain
jack stands
patience.
for the rear to know if there manual or auto agjust while you have the drum off look at the base of the shoes. in between there will be what looks like a wheel with teeth on it and an armature beside it. if it has that its an auto adjust. if its just a hex hed bolt its manual. auto adjusters need to be taken apart, inspected and cleaned and put back together with anti seize. these operate when the vehicle is reversed. at least when there working properly.
before you do anything with any brakes hose them down to clear any dust or grease. some pads contained aspestos which we all know is back.
also when doing the drums check your wheel cylinders. if you notice wet brake fluid replace them. be careful with them if not leaking as you can damage them easily. if you have a leaky one keep the push rods because the new ones generally do not come with them(why I dont know)
also check your brake hoses up front for cracks or buldges. if you see one replace it!
most overlooked things on vehicles are tires and brakes. they are also the most important things on a vehicle!
brake jobs usually for me have been one of those deals where you better be prepaired to replace more than you expected! cant tell you how many times Ive started a "yeah Ima change the pads this weekend" to a full blown brake system rebuild!
Also before you drive the thing after the job is done, get in the vehicle start it and push the brake several times to the floor to set the new brakes before you take off!
I highly suggest watching the following! Eric is an ASE certified, experienced mechanic who knows his stuff!!! he has tons of videos for future reference!
heres a vid on rear drums
How To Replace Drum Brake Shoes (Full) - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
here is one on front brakes
Front Disc Brakes and How to Replace Them - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
also measure the width of the pads and measure the drum itself.
measure the front rotors and for pads I always get the better of the usual three options. while price is more, you get better brakes. cheaper brakes tend to become smooth while breaking in and will squeel.
Do not forget to buy a thing of antisieze. or some brake lube.
use librally on the front caliper guide pins, but make sure you clean them first with a wire wheel or wire brush. lube the rubber guide pin guide as well.
put some on the new pads(not the surface that touches the rotor!) but on the edges that come into direct contact with the caliper itself.
Also when you get new drums and rotors make sure before you install them to hose them down with brake cleaner as they are coated in a rust inhibitor! its oil based and will affect the preformance of your brakes!
things you will need for sure are:
brake cleaner two to 3 cans
wire wheel, or wire brush
rubber gloves(optional, but highly recomended)
rags
a rear drum multi tool! yes you will thank me later!!!! just get one their 10 bucks!
c clamp for pushing the front caliper piston back in.
a camera- cause you will want to take pictures of EVERYTHING before you tear it apart. again this is a must IMHO take pictures of everything more than once and from different angles.
a case of beer- no need to explain
jack stands
patience.
for the rear to know if there manual or auto agjust while you have the drum off look at the base of the shoes. in between there will be what looks like a wheel with teeth on it and an armature beside it. if it has that its an auto adjust. if its just a hex hed bolt its manual. auto adjusters need to be taken apart, inspected and cleaned and put back together with anti seize. these operate when the vehicle is reversed. at least when there working properly.
before you do anything with any brakes hose them down to clear any dust or grease. some pads contained aspestos which we all know is back.
also when doing the drums check your wheel cylinders. if you notice wet brake fluid replace them. be careful with them if not leaking as you can damage them easily. if you have a leaky one keep the push rods because the new ones generally do not come with them(why I dont know)
also check your brake hoses up front for cracks or buldges. if you see one replace it!
most overlooked things on vehicles are tires and brakes. they are also the most important things on a vehicle!
brake jobs usually for me have been one of those deals where you better be prepaired to replace more than you expected! cant tell you how many times Ive started a "yeah Ima change the pads this weekend" to a full blown brake system rebuild!
Also before you drive the thing after the job is done, get in the vehicle start it and push the brake several times to the floor to set the new brakes before you take off!
I highly suggest watching the following! Eric is an ASE certified, experienced mechanic who knows his stuff!!! he has tons of videos for future reference!
heres a vid on rear drums
How To Replace Drum Brake Shoes (Full) - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
here is one on front brakes
Front Disc Brakes and How to Replace Them - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
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