BimmerJeeper

Forum software is malfunctioning.
My old thread is missing, so I will repost it.
Good thing I had it saved in my email

Last week I posted:

BimmerJeeper

In my original thread, I was told it could be the brake fluid or the rear drums needed adjusting.

I was not able to remove my tires b/c the lug nuts were on too tight.
I was not able to remove my bleeder screw since it was rusted solid.

So, I brought it to a professional mechanic

The professional mechanic that I brought my XJ to said it's the master cylinder.
He adjusted the drum brake, but said that was not why the pedal travel is too long.
So, for $300, I am having him change the master cylinder. (Sick deal)

Hopefully, this helps the next guy with this issue.
Not brake fluid. Not rear drums. Master cylinder for brake pedal travel.

BimmerJeeper

Martlor13

or

fb97xj1

Why do you do this to yourself????????? You take such easy jobs to someone else. The last guy took your driveshaft out just to change the shift solenoids. The MC is a couple brake lines and some bolts holding it to the booster. Put a rag down to keep the brake fluid off the paint if thats a concern, and use flare wrenches on the lines. Cap the lines with rubber plugs until youre ready to install the new MC. Bleed the MC before install and put it back together. Its easy. Bleeding brakes is just as easy, even by yourself. $300? Youre being hosed. But, whatever.

BimmerJeeper

Like I said, I could not get the 2nd lug nut off.
So, I brought it to the shop for the drum brake adjust.

But, that's not the issue.

Since the car already in the shop, so just let them make the problem go away.
Way easier. I will probably tip them $60. (20%)

BimmerJeeper

Weird update.

I just called the shop and told them while they have the wheels off, please replace the two rusted drums.
(Last time I tried to remove the drum, it was solid stuck)
He then tells me that one of the lug nuts is stuck (that is why I punted the job in the first place, glad it wasn't just my crappy home tools)
so the wheel is going to be hard to remove. He then said something about a wheel stud replacement.

Well, how did he adjust the E-brake if he can't remove the wheel?
I am guessing he just verified it worked, and was not going to charge me much, initially.
If I never called back and asked to replace the drums while it's on the lift,
they would never have said anything about the stuck lug nut (and never removing the wheel)
Maybe they adjusted the brakes from just the other side and called it a day?

Removing a stuck lug could mean a sheared wheel stud. (in the best case)
So, much for getting away with $300.

Drum brake adjust (1 hour)
ew master Cyl. (2 hours)
new drums (1 hour)
lug shear (3 hours?)
**** just got real.

This one might break $1000.
I will post the final tally once I get the car.

BimmerJeeper

No need for the hostile attacking tone.
Everything is relative.
I found the solenoids repair very difficult.
I never even got to see the solenoids. (Stuck tranny pan)
The right move was to punt that to a shop. No regrets.

PatHenry

He probably just adjusted the e-brake handle (the adjustment screws are underneath sort of below where the center console sits.) You probably should have been specific that you wanted the e-brake lever in the drum checked/adjusted.. but that would/should fall under the "adjust the rear brakes" umbrella.

Replacing a wheel stud should take a professional 10-15 minutes. I don't think it took my amateur self more than that when I had to drill one out years ago.

If you're going to figure on replacing the wheel stud anyway, I don't see why the next step wouldn't be a gigantic cheater bar or super heavy duty impact.

PatHenry

Hey, there are a lot of guys that take their vehicles into the shop for EVERYTHING..

Everyone is different and if someone wants to spend the money at a shop, that's their prerogative. At the same time, this forum exists for folks to get advice on doing the diagnostic and repair work themselves, so it's certainly fair to point out that money could be saved by doing repairs yourself without it necessarily being hostile.

BimmerJeeper

Ok, as long as he did not lie to me. But, I specifically said, "Adjust the rear drums"
I said brake pedal travel AND e-brake handle (as a symptom, since I don't give a damn about the actual e-brake, have never used it once)

Glad to know a stuck lug nut is not an impossible task.

I don't understand your last sentence.
The shop needs those tools, not me.
They are the one doing all the work,

PatHenry

The e-brake cables stretch over time, so to adjust the height at which the handle stops at, they adjust the e-brake where it splits (the spot I mentioned).
I don't know the specifics of what you said, but the fact that they mentioned the stuck lug when you called means that they just hadn't completed the drum adjustments yet (due to the wheel not coming off).
I'm just giving the benefit of the doubt really.

A stuck lug is definitely not an impossible task. Had I to do it over (knowing what I know now), I would have started with a MAP torch and a ton of PB Blaster. Then if that didn't work, go to the gigantic cheater bar or super high power impact.

My last sentence was a general one re: the approximation of 3 hours to deal with the stuck lug. Considering a wheel stud is under $5 and easy to to, I don't see a reason why you couldn't snap the wheel stud off with the whole thing taking an hour tops. Whether you did it or the shop does it is irrelevant, I'm just wondering if anyone knows a legitimate reason why the "increase torque until it snaps" method would NOT work.

Martlor13

cherokeee lug nuts have a "cap" over the actual nut. Those can strip and then your ****ed because it's a ***** to remove

PatHenry

Couldn't you cut the cap part off with a Dremel and go at the inner nut?

I had one of those caps break off and I just used a breaker bar and socket on the inner nut and it came off without too much fuss.

I replaced all my lugs with the extended length lug nuts so that I can get a good grip with a regular 3/4" socket and breaker bar. I went with the cheapos, but I think it's Gorilla brand has heavy duty ones that worked great for years on my TJ. (I bought them after dealing with the fiasco of a stuck nut myself).

EZEARL

Replaced my OEM lug nuts with "real" lug nuts years ago. When a cap came off I did the same as you. Speaking of lug nuts I torque mine at 85ft lbs

I'm not understanding what Martlor means.