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BRAKES LOCKING causing overheating?

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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 10:11 PM
  #16  
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Update.
The brake issue was definitely the knuckles.
I took photos today and am trying to upload,but they are inverted when uploaded.
I will get more info up to help others with this issues tomorrow.
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 01:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by madmanmarty
Update.
The brake issue was definitely the knuckles.
I took photos today and am trying to upload,but they are inverted when uploaded.
I will get more info up to help others with this issues tomorrow.
Cool! this has been tested and confirmed right?
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Dumajones
Cool! this has been tested and confirmed right?
I went to get the rotors cut today.
There is no glazing,but I want them shaved for piece of mind,and to check for warpage. They look almost new.
There was a ton of corrosion behind the "notch" where the pads ride.
It was much worse than the divit in front of the top and bottom of knuckle.
I am trying to get photos of this up.
I'll keep advised.

Last edited by madmanmarty; Aug 28, 2015 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Sp
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 12:52 AM
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The start of what would be a long day.





Remove the caliper.





By removing the two 1/2" bolts.





Hang the caliper with wire or a zip tie.





This is the divit that wears on the top of the knuckle.





Worn divit on bottom of knuckle. This is what the helpful members are referring to. With deep grooves,the proven fix being to weld the depressed area. Mine is not bad,so I am going to file the depression and all other areas,to give the pads a smooth surface to ride on. These areas must be lubed with disc brake lube also. I also cleaned up the pads backing plates.





This is a shot of the bottom of knuckle,showing the ridge where the notch in the brake pad rides.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 01:56 AM
  #20  
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The photo uploader sucks.
I can't upload my last 2 pics from today.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 09:24 AM
  #21  
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Coat with silver anti seize where pads slide.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 01:13 PM
  #22  
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This is the notch area.<br/>I coated it with disc brake lube.<br/>

Are you suggesting I coat with anti-seize instead?
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 01:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by madmanmarty



This is the notch area.<br/>I coated it with disc brake lube.<br/>

Are you suggesting I coat with anti-seize instead?
Either one is fine.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 01:29 PM
  #24  
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I spent 2 hours yesterday tapping the lug nuts. Every nut was stripped. What did the PO do to strip every single nut. 10 down,10 to go.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by madmanmarty
I spent 2 hours yesterday tapping the lug nuts. Every nut was stripped. What did the PO do to strip every single nut. 10 down,10 to go.
Are you sure they are 1/2 - 20?
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 03:23 PM
  #26  
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Yes. They are stamped 1/2 RH/T.
And RH is just right hand turn,but is 20 also.
I checked the threads with this,and was ok.




Checking threads of lugs and nuts.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 04:38 PM
  #27  
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Need some help here.
Aren't Cherokee wheels hub-centric?
These r the pro-comp wheels the PO had on it when I bought it.
He drove with them for a year.
Look at the space between the rim and hub(without cap).
Did PO put incorrect rims on?




Pro comp wheel stamp





Mounted without cap.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #28  
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No one?
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 11:27 AM
  #29  
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This amount leaked out while working on brakes. Passenger side,weeping from rad.





To show position of leak.





Done with brakes. They work great. Painted wheels while I was at it.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by madmanmarty
No one?
Factory yes
aftermarket no
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