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Brakes don't work

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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 07:40 AM
  #16  
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A new master cylinder would be worth it since they aren't all that expensive. I think I paid $22 for a new one with reservoir from orielly's not to long ago.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by brewer13
This Jeep has been a boat launcher in salt water. The brakes have not worked since I got it. A year ago. I can't get the rear drums off to take a look. They won't budge, maybe from the salt water, I've tried soaking in break free. I read something about spring nuts securing drum to wheel studs. I didn't notice them. Where would I find them to release the drums? What would I expect to need to do to make the brakes work again. The Jeep is in Mexico and want to bring down any parts I might need to have it fixed. I want to start wheeling the local area.

It's an '89, 4.0, 4X4, 5 spd.,
If it has been in salt water, you may want to do a complete rebuild of the rear brakes. New hardware, wheel cylinders, drums shoes and fluid flush. What is your fluid level like? Is it black? Low fluid usually means one of two things: worn pads, or a fluid leak. Never add brake fluid to the res if it's low, do a full inspection to determine WHY it's low. Black fluid is a good indicator you need a fluid flush.

Originally Posted by 1976Mustang
If the drums still spin, just keep bashing it with a hammer until it break free, don't hit the edges unless you want to dodge shards of cast iron. I found brass hammers to do really well with this, although they are pricey.

Otherwise the basics would be, make sure the system even has any fluid. Check along all the brakes lines and make sure they aren't leaking. I am of course assuming by "Not working", you mean they don't stop the vehicle. There is a lot of information we need that you didn't provide.
Good info. If the starwheel adjusters didn't work, chances are all the H/W is corroded, and the only way you're gonna gett the drums off is to muscle them off, either with a hammer or a puller.
Originally Posted by belvedere
They are used to hold the drum on during factory assy. They are just a little clip-like thing that goes on the wheel stud and pushes up against the drum. There is usually one (maybe two) per drum. If the drums have ever been off before (I would assume yours have), the clips will be gone.
These are known as "Tinnerman nuts" and only used at the factory for assembly purposes. Snip 'em off and be done with 'em.

Originally Posted by brewer13
Thanks for all the replys, just one more thing then. Would you recommend a master cylinder rebuild kit, or just get a rebuilt one?

Thanks, again.
Just get a new one, if you need one. Remember, not all new master cylinders come with a res attached, so either remove your old one carefully (it's plastic, and we all know what happens to old plastic, LOL), or get a new res with it at the same time.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 02:01 PM
  #18  
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It might be pretty ugly under there. You might take wheel cylinders, hardware, (the springs and stuff), shoes, and drums. Some chance the drums are OK.

The center hole on the drum is a tight fit on the hub. Heat is your friend here. You might be surprised, good and hot it may come right off. If it's good and seized even the puller won't get it, (I've seen a drum bend without coming free). A regular propane torch is pretty week. (I've used two a couple times).

A trick, with one wheel jacked up you can power-brake it. Intentionally "bake" the brakes. Makes allot of heat. Getting it good and hot with an Oxy/Acetylene torch might be the easiest ticket. Cleaning that center "hub stub" might help. Now you can take us all fishing?
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 02:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Now you can take us all fishing?
Word. LOL
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