Brake line question
09-29-2014, 03:21 PM
#1
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Brake line question
I did a search for this already, and found some info on brake lines but didn't exactly find the info I'm looking for. I have a 1996 XJ with a rotted brake line and I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about fixing it (I've never replaced a brake line before). I know you can buy pre-bent lines from the factory, or make your own, but it looks like the brake line in question may already have been spliced before. It's the line that runs along the inside of the left frame rail. I see what looks like a splice, right about below where the driver's feet would be. The opposite end transitions to a flexible hose that runs to the rear axle. Is this the normal configuration from the factory, or is that splice up front from a previous repair? If it's factory, what's the part number of that length of brake line? Should I replace the flexible hose that goes to the axle too? The connection between that hose and the brake line seems to be a bit corroded.
Any info that can help me is appreciated.
Any info that can help me is appreciated.
09-29-2014, 04:33 PM
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Just my .02 here. Now and then, sitting stopped in the driveway I hammer the brakes as if it's a panic stop, and my life depends on nothing blowing. (the lines don't care if you are sitting still or not!) I started doing that after I blew a flex line during a panic stop. If it holds, that's good enough for me.
I've never rented the tool and done double flair fittings. Never bought pre-bent lines. I've always managed buying straight sections ready to go, then coiling extra length and routing them so they fit. It can kink. If you go that route maybe buy an extra 18in. piece to practice a bit. Two small box end wrenches can be used to bend a slight bit at a time, to get a bend.
Just my .02! (some might re-do the whole jeep because of that rusted spot!)
I've never rented the tool and done double flair fittings. Never bought pre-bent lines. I've always managed buying straight sections ready to go, then coiling extra length and routing them so they fit. It can kink. If you go that route maybe buy an extra 18in. piece to practice a bit. Two small box end wrenches can be used to bend a slight bit at a time, to get a bend.
Just my .02! (some might re-do the whole jeep because of that rusted spot!)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-29-2014 at 04:45 PM.
09-29-2014, 07:38 PM
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You were clear. Guess I wasn't! As far as the flex line, I myself would just pressure test it by pushing really hard on the brake. You could clean it and check the "rubber" with really good light and look for cracks. As far as the leak in the rigid line, I myself would buy a straight section, (with flares and nuts already on it), from the auto parts, and bend it myself.
Maybe someone else knows whether that coupling is stock or not.
Maybe someone else knows whether that coupling is stock or not.
09-29-2014, 07:47 PM
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funny you should ask, I just did it today
I recently had my state inspection and they wanted my right rear wheel cylinder replaced, in my task today I snapped the end off of the brake line going to the wheel. Take a rough measurement and buy the straight one at the autozone and you should be good to go they make them pre flared and the fitting on them so all you have to do bend them in place. Trying to flare your own is tough, so if you can get one just a little longer than what you think and just put a long bend in it you should be fine or splice two with a compression fitting which they have there too. They also rent a bender if you need it, it was like $15.00 which is refunded if you use it and return it (their loaner program).
09-29-2014, 11:49 PM
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I'd remove the leaking section between whatever two junction points you can manage to unscrew without ruining. Like Dflintstone and Cliffy said, get a matching, pre-made section from the auto parts store, making sure the fittings on each end match. They aren't all the same. Slightly longer is OK, slightly shorter...not, lol.
I don't remember if there was a connector near the driver's feet. There's a proportioning valve in that general area, is that what you mean?
At any rate, as long as it's a proper flare connection and not a nasty compression fitting, it should be OK to work with.
That flex section is what the hard line screws into , don't be surprised if you have to replace it because it gets destroyed when you try to disassemble it. The flex line in turn screws into a splitter block which is considerably more sturdy.
I don't remember if there was a connector near the driver's feet. There's a proportioning valve in that general area, is that what you mean?
At any rate, as long as it's a proper flare connection and not a nasty compression fitting, it should be OK to work with.
That flex section is what the hard line screws into , don't be surprised if you have to replace it because it gets destroyed when you try to disassemble it. The flex line in turn screws into a splitter block which is considerably more sturdy.
09-30-2014, 07:25 AM
#7
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You were clear. Guess I wasn't! As far as the flex line, I myself would just pressure test it by pushing really hard on the brake. You could clean it and check the "rubber" with really good light and look for cracks. As far as the leak in the rigid line, I myself would buy a straight section, (with flares and nuts already on it), from the auto parts, and bend it myself.
Maybe someone else knows whether that coupling is stock or not.
Maybe someone else knows whether that coupling is stock or not.
I recently had my state inspection and they wanted my right rear wheel cylinder replaced, in my task today I snapped the end off of the brake line going to the wheel. Take a rough measurement and buy the straight one at the autozone and you should be good to go they make them pre flared and the fitting on them so all you have to do bend them in place. Trying to flare your own is tough, so if you can get one just a little longer than what you think and just put a long bend in it you should be fine or splice two with a compression fitting which they have there too. They also rent a bender if you need it, it was like $15.00 which is refunded if you use it and return it (their loaner program).
I'd remove the leaking section between whatever two junction points you can manage to unscrew without ruining. Like Dflintstone and Cliffy said, get a matching, pre-made section from the auto parts store, making sure the fittings on each end match. They aren't all the same. Slightly longer is OK, slightly shorter...not, lol.
I don't remember if there was a connector near the driver's feet. There's a proportioning valve in that general area, is that what you mean?
At any rate, as long as it's a proper flare connection and not a nasty compression fitting, it should be OK to work with.
That flex section is what the hard line screws into , don't be surprised if you have to replace it because it gets destroyed when you try to disassemble it. The flex line in turn screws into a splitter block which is considerably more sturdy.
I don't remember if there was a connector near the driver's feet. There's a proportioning valve in that general area, is that what you mean?
At any rate, as long as it's a proper flare connection and not a nasty compression fitting, it should be OK to work with.
That flex section is what the hard line screws into , don't be surprised if you have to replace it because it gets destroyed when you try to disassemble it. The flex line in turn screws into a splitter block which is considerably more sturdy.
Yesterday I sprayed both ends of the line with PB blaster, and I'm gonna try and remove it tonight. I guess I'll just take it right to the auto parts store and see if they can come up with a close replacement.
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09-30-2014, 08:03 AM
#8
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Have you tried this site for the factory parts? I have decent luck with them trying to get the harder to find OEM stuff.
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
If the parts are available, I'd install the entire length. Probably worth the $$ in the long run.
JR
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
If the parts are available, I'd install the entire length. Probably worth the $$ in the long run.
JR
09-30-2014, 08:08 AM
#9
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Have you tried this site for the factory parts? I have decent luck with them trying to get the harder to find OEM stuff.
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
If the parts are available, I'd install the entire length. Probably worth the $$ in the long run.
JR
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
If the parts are available, I'd install the entire length. Probably worth the $$ in the long run.
JR
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/par...section=BRAKES
09-30-2014, 08:17 AM
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Looks like they are discontinued. 
You can try calling your local Stealer, and see if somehow they have a set in a back corner covered in dust... we forget our Jeeps are almost 20 years old now! LOL!
You'll most likely need the tool, or will need to have them made.
JR
You can try calling your local Stealer, and see if somehow they have a set in a back corner covered in dust... we forget our Jeeps are almost 20 years old now! LOL!
You'll most likely need the tool, or will need to have them made.
JR
09-30-2014, 01:12 PM
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Like cliffy suggests, you may be able to borrow the bender free...Do inspect it before you leave. I borrowed a power steering pulley puller, then saw it had stripped stuff and was afraid they would accuse me of having done it. (they didn't)
09-30-2014, 07:01 PM
#12
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Got it fixed today, thanks for the help! I just removed the bad line, took it to Advanced Auto Parts and got a pre-cut line with fittings on it. I went with copper so it was easier to work with, and it wont rot again. Took me all of 5 minutes to get it in there, WAY easier than I thought!
09-30-2014, 07:19 PM
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mmmm Bacon Fat...man I miss that. Copper? Neat!, that's new to me. Does it bend easily? You got her bled....you know the star wheel on the rears is what determines pedal free play. You hammered the brakes hard with it running and nothing blew. You might check for leaks after a bit.
I might bleed/flush the whole system, since that one spot went. Cost, zero. (fluid).
I might bleed/flush the whole system, since that one spot went. Cost, zero. (fluid).
09-30-2014, 07:25 PM
#14
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mmmm Bacon Fat...man I miss that. Copper? Neat!, that's new to me. Does it bend easily? You got her bled....you know the star wheel on the rears is what determines pedal free play. You hammered the brakes hard with it running and nothing blew. You might check for leaks after a bit.
I might bleed/flush the whole system, since that one spot went. Cost, zero. (fluid).
I might bleed/flush the whole system, since that one spot went. Cost, zero. (fluid).
Oh and yeah, the copper was super easy to work with.
09-30-2014, 07:37 PM
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Ha Funny...Actually I only do that with my 56 *******. (truth be told, the cable that use to go to the e-brake, is now on the pin that waz for the hydraulic.) (can sort of tell when the brake is on)(It's Serious Offroad)
