EEVEE

Well im happy, And sad at the same time. Ok well after battling with a dragging passenger brake i decided to replace the driver and passenger caliper and brake hoses. And yadayadayada easier than i thought blah blah blah. But on the knuckle i did note a fair amount of indentation on the slide part (i have no clue how worn is worn and did not get pictures.). The driver side has slight indents on the top and bottom slides. The passenger side looks a fair bit worse as if i remembered correctly the top slide was worn not flat but a little rounded, and the bottom was flat. Would this cause dragging issues? Because this was the next part i was getting to, The passenger side gets a bit noticeably warmer than the drivers side after a few back to back moderate to hard braking and my god the brake smell lol. But with the amount of braking i did with my old caliper and hoses the old woulda been dragging to the point of almost locking up as i did before and at 20 mph stopped by itself without braking but with these new ones i came straight home after smelling brake and lifting it in the air and spinning the tires to find they arent dragging and are free like theyre supposed to be.

Ok so im pretty sure my brakes are fine i have yet to take it on a grand tour in stop and go traffic as that was the bane of driving for me as thats what always caused my brake to drag i will report back in a good hour and see if it drags or not hence why i asked about the slide guides. OK! now onto the next issue and before anyone says anything just a disclaimer this isnt staying for more than a month im just a little strapped for cash, But as i had all 4 wheels off the drivers rear brake drum was wet (oh great here we go) so i took off the drum and low and behold it was wet inside it seems now that there is working drums my brake cylinder wasnt having any of it and started to leak. Anyways happies and giggles i bled and flushed my brake system and made sure there was no leaks anywhere else besides this one and no air in the lines. (correct me on any mistakes i made here) So would this cause my jeep to pull sometimes hard to the right when braking? The passenger side is fine and adjusted and all the good stuff. This would be the only cause in my opinion to cause it to pull to the right, But after a few back to back braking sometimes it doesnt pull or very minimal pull and then sometimes would slam you into the steering wheel if im assuming the brake fluid is rubbed away on the drums and causing it to stop normally then getting wet again. I havent checked my fluid yet to see if it has moved from the max line.

So in general im asking is what is causing the pulling if it is the slide guides or the leaky leaky drum brake. I havent taken it over 55 yet but will carefully hit it and test them when safe to do so.

AlexisUSA

Sounds like you have a number of issues. In general, if you think a particular corner is dragging, just stop the car and hold your hand near the drum / rotor (as applicable) to see if it is hotter than the opposite side.

Separately, if you are experiencing severe pulling to any side while braking, I would really be focusing first on what's happening with the front brakes rather than the rear drums.

DFlintstone

Not sure if this is your issue:

I had one a while back where the brake pads had worn a slot where they ride., guess you'd call the steering knuckle. Thinking the pad could catch there I rounded that edge/slot some with an angle grinder so at least It couldn't get caught there. Later I saw someone post a repair for that. They built up the edge there where the pad rides with a welder, then re ground it back down to the correct shape.

Also once in 40 years and a zillion jobs I had a rubber flex line fail (inside) so it became a one way valve for fluid. Guess the tube inside can kink and do that without leaking.

EEVEE

Well it is still pulling very hard im gonna check my wheel bearings and make sure they arent shot before i mess around with this knuckle and call a welder friend and see if he can help me with this knuckle. Lines are replaced along with calipers. It was doing this before with the old brakes too, But i did put new pads on and thats when it showed up..... I wonder if theyre faulty. But now that you mention the groove the rotor on the back side is slightly grooved but i dont think its enough to pull this hard would it? Hang on ill post a video once it uploads.

EEVEE

Driver top knuckle

Driver bottom knuckle


passenger knuckle

passenger bottom knuckle

Passenger top knuckle

Just a reference on the passenger side of the brake pads

EEVEE

I know the pictures really suck and hard to see with the anti seize. But i went and swapped the tires around and yet no change. But i noticed when i reverse instead of going right the wheel goes left when braking in reverse. Could there be something loose? My wheel bearings (atleast to me) felt like there was very little play and nothing excessive.

EEVEE

Oh and also with the test drive its still pulling as it did before but both sides felt the same temp wise. And i do not have an ir gauge to check. But this is bugging me now and was positive this was gonna fix it. The pedal feels firm when pushing them and not squishy so hopefully i can rule out air in the system.

EEVEE

EEVEE

CRLAMBERTJR

Sounds like it's sticking on the passenger side. Shouldn't be any rounded places on the slide rails. May be cause of the sticking, binding. Do this, pull the caliper, take a small, flat file and dress, clean up the slide faces. Look for high places where it will snag or catch. Smooth them out, nice and square on the edges. Don't use anti-sieze on the rails, get some good, Permatex Ceramic Blue Brake Grease. Put a nice thin film on the slides, on the end of the pads where they meet, and might as well hit the guide pins good too. Next, get a set of Caliper Abutment Clips.

Placement of abutment clips ! Tolerances between the pads and rails should be no less than .010\" and no greater than .015" place the thicker clip on the end that receives the braking rotational force.
I'd check the tolerances before you do anything. Short of this, if they still stick, you can just have the divots welded, filled and then ground back down smooth and flat. Otherwise you'll have to get new knuckles, 80-$100 each. If you do, I'd get both sides... One more thing is possible. You may have gotten a bad rebuilt caliper with the piston freezing up ?

EEVEE

Yeah i did use braking antiseize i tried regular and it basically melted off lol. And i severely hope not i ordered the new calipers from rock auto i didnt get the economy rather than the daily driver nugeon ones, And wanna know the thing? i think my brakes came with those but i just grazed past them and now i kinda regret throwing them away..... Also filing it down? i never thought of that as simple as it sounds.... Eh ill have to wait on doing this crap again i have no monies and my back is shot atm lol. Once i get everything back apart ill have clearer pictures with the grease wiped away and pads off. Maybe even call a mobile welder and maybe weld new spots on there.

EEVEE

Also could worn out rotors cause this? I know mine arent in the best of shape but im sure theyre getting pretty worn especially the passenger side as for a year they dragged to the point of smoking on some months and when i took my old pads out i noticed i think on the outer pad there was a little lip on the pad from going over the rotor slightly.

Oswalla

Clampert has you on the right track filling those divots and using the clips in the future. Worn rotors are not generally going to cause a pull, how and when the pads hit the rotor usually cause the pull. Worn or warped rotors generally give a shaking'/vibrating pulse while braking, really warped ones you will feel without braking too. Pics above of the passenger side divots indicate your pad travel is limited to where the divot ends, driver maybe too I can't see pics good enough to tell . I almost always buy rotors and pads at the same time anymore, rotors dont have the thickness they once did to have them turned a few times.

Also I didnt see where you replaced the leaky cylinder in the rear ? Besides the obvious front divot problem a non functioning rear cylinder will have no braking on that side causing it to pull to the working brake side.

EEVEE

I didnt replace the cylinder yet. And yeah im starting to suspect that.... Oddly enough today i drove it and very minimal pull was experienced today.

CRLAMBERTJR

I'd get on it soon as you can or avoid driving it. That smoking, could lead to a fire. Hope you get it lined out !