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Brake help

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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 08:20 PM
  #1  
EEVEE's Avatar
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From: Florida
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Default Brake help

Hello I now need to replace my front brake stuff for the fact on the way to my interview my brake was basically billowing smoke and almost missed my interview. I cant drive for 20 minutes in hot heat or stop and go traffic. If both they drag terribly. Now i am on a very very strict budget but i want to do this as best as i can because i cant have this happen again. I have a 1999 and I have yet to check the measurements of the rotors because i know theyre 2 different kinds of rotor sizes. But for the meantime does this all look correct. What am i missing and on the calipers it says theyre unloaded. What does that mean? And for now the drums will have to wait. I got high temp grease already and gonna get pads at the auto part store. And no i didnt track down whats specifically wrong with the brakes and why theyre dragging. I dont know if it is the calipers or the hoses. Almost a year ago it sat for around 9 years and idk if something happened in the meantime with them. I dont know but what i do know is i am tired of driving for this long and having to pull over for over an hour until theyre actually drivable again. Here is the links to what i am gonna get. I know this is firing the parts cannon (seems to be a popular thing here lol) But i want this problem to vanish to never come back, Meanwhile not making my entire jeep shake and rattle from 55 mph as the rotors are warped and cause the front end to shake when braking. Plus sick of the gas gauge taking a dive even faster than normal.

http://www.partstrain.com/store/deta...a-_Driver_Side

http://www.partstrain.com/store/deta...Passenger_Side

https://www.4wd.com/p/dorman-hydraul...hoC9DAQAvD_BwE

http://www.partsgeek.com/jj9kqxs-jee...xoCS6EQAvD_BwE

Am i missing anything else and does this all look correct? I have brake fluid to top it off. Also if i crack the bleeder valve when its acting up and the fluid sprays that means the hose is bad right? I have literally done everything to these brakes. Made sure the slide pins were lubed up and moving, the little ridge for the brake pad to slide back and forth moves easily and not gunked up or pitted or damaged. And everything is so clean that mr clean himself couldnt do better. I know i can get a rebuild kit for alot cheaper but I just cant really trust myself to do it.
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 10:28 PM
  #2  
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From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
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So your front brake calipers are stuck? They are 9 years old, and sat mostly unused?

If you jack up the front, do the wheels spin freely or are they stuck always, hot or cold?

For parts I would go to NAPA - new hoses and calipers. But do some poking first before throwing parts at the problem. But yes, get it fixed asap. Brakes are essential.

Last edited by OldTires; Aug 22, 2017 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 12:02 AM
  #3  
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From: Florida
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Well theyre still the original brakes from factory and never been replaced. And they do spin freely when cold but after say stop and go traffic they start to drag badly to where im almost full throttle to keep it going to pull off into a parking lot. Then after an hour or two theyre perfectly fine and can continue driving as nothing ever happened. I am sure theyre dragging because one time pulling into a parking lot they did that typical noise when you lightly let off the brake while stopped and make that chattering noise and feel while i wasnt even hitting the brakes in drive, Then came to a full stop on its own. I never really spun them while they were acting up because im far away from home and usually happening during driving. Once they stop i go home and they feel fine afterwards and just to tired to jack up the jeep and spin the tires or crack the bleeder valve on the brake line. But if i dont use them often or its cool outside they act up less frequently. I wonder if it could be a valve or something in the brake booster... idk im just getting tired of this already thats for sure lol. Typical time to do my errands is 2 hours, with my jeep is usually 5 hours. I am taking precautions and stopping early before i do major damage so i dont cook my wheel bearing. Today was the worst i got it because this was important and couldnt miss. Florida is harsh to find jobs in lol.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 12:34 AM
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From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
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Ah, the old stuck pads, until they cool down problem (like nothing ever happened).

The first thing to check is the slide rails that the pads ride on. They are part of the steering knuckle that the hub is bolted to. They tend to get a small (quarter to half inch) indentation where the pads ride on the slide rail, when hot, the pads will tend to stick/bind there. (I've had it twice). To correct the indentation that the pads create, some people weld on a little metal filler, then grind it back smooth. Some replace the knuckles (a much bigger job, especially on a budget). But for the time being, you can take a small steel brush, and some sand paper and clean those slide rails up as good as possible. Then lube them well with something like permatex purple high-temp ceramic brake lube.

If you find that the indentations exist on your slide rails, and they are pronounced, you could always ask a local mechanic to weld in some metal and grind them smooth for you. It should be pretty reasonable cost.

Last edited by jordan96xj; Aug 23, 2017 at 12:38 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 08:10 AM
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From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Year: 1996
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Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
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If you want to throw parts at it and are pretty sure what the problem is, you could do both sides calipers, hoses and pads for around $100 from NAPA. Not a bad deal for the safety of good working front brakes. Remember when changing the calipers not to get the left and right sides mixed up, you won't be able to bleed them if you switch them up.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 01:50 PM
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From: Florida
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Yes i heard lol. The bleeder valves are on different sides. I just want decent brakes because stopping from 40 mph actually knocks my front end out of whack and it feels like the death wobble after. All fine and dandy up to 65 mph (and above but i dont know that because i never go faster than that *shifty eyes*) But once i hit the brakes better be prepared. And yes like i said before the slide rails are as smooth as a newborn baby butt, Just to make sure i slid a thumbtack across there and it slid without stopping. Like i said i know this is firing the parts cannon but im tired of these brakes overheating and dragging. And is costing me more money than fixing in gas. Plus i dont want to destroy my wheel bearings. Lets hope the anti seize on the lug nut studs held up to the heat and arent stuck on there.... Well its my lucky day! another job interview while typing this! maybe i will have enough money to do the entire brake job after all.
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