Found a puddle of brake fluid under my XJ today - one of the brake lines is corroded to the point to leaking (apparently). I'd really like to get a hold of a pre-bend line if possible, but I'm having a heck of a time getting a part number for a 95 XJ. I think what I need is #5 on this diagram:


https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...nes-hoses.html

However, there is no part number for #5 listed. I need the line that goes from the proportioning valve to the rear hose (may be 2 lines). I know I can get the steel hose, fittings, bender, cutter, flaring kit, etc, but I'm hoping for a pre-bent solution. Anyone have any idea of the part number (and if it's available anywhere?).

Alternatively, I suppose I can get the whole kit from ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/95-01-Jeep-...hY~1H6&vxp=mtr

Also, any tips on getting the flare nuts loose from the brake hose assembly and the proportioning valve (other than PB blaster and a good set of flare wrenches)? I think they've been attached for 22 years or so.

 

As.for getting them unattached... really... they won't strip with a line wrench. If you don't have one. Figure out the size and sacrifice a box end wr3nch to the grinder. I made my own.

I took 3 smaller pieces of store bought line and screwed.them together. One off the box up top, bent it with the 2 wrench method. Screwed it into a female female connector. Then another line for the length. Female female connector. Another line... bent... to the back brakes. I bought about 20 lines of different lengths. Brought back those I couldn't use. Cost me about 30 or 40$. No lying on my back trying to flare under a michigan jeep. Still working fine 2.years later. Also, zip tie them down. Either way.

Good luck. God Bless.

 

Oh, and clean the nuts with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Then oil them. Let em sit 20, then try.

 

I got my pre bent at a local dealer. You can always call them with your VIN and price it there, get the part number and then do your search.

 

Thanks for the advice. I could stand to get a good set of line wrenches - had one when I did my drum caliper, but it was crap and got returned (ended up just using vice grips). I'll give the slow and steady approach a try.

I may opt for the kit if I can't find a stand-alone part - I saw a couple of other lines that could probably use replacing, so it may be worth the extra $$ to have them on hand and not have to spend time bending, measuring, flaring, etc.

 

I'll try that - thanks. It's just strange that all the diagrams show the line I need, but don't list the part number.

 

It's just a matter of time, get a roll of 3/16" copper nickel line and some fittings and change them all. It's easy to bend and flare plus won't corrode.

 

Yep, that's the ticket!

 

Just do them all and be done with it, but if you just want that one dealer part, go for it. Whatever works for you. I bought that same kit off ebay. I have yet to install them but they look really good. Nice bends, and all the rock gaurds are where they should be. Everything is tagged and bagged except for the driver side line, and all the unions are capped off to protect the threads and flares. The long line is bent for easier shipping, buts its a soft bend so no worries. Being aftermarket, you may have to tweak the lines here and there for proper fit. Nothing new there.

 

Thanks for the info on the kit - I might just go that route if the dealers don't have the part I need. I suppose I'm most concerned with removing the old line and the subsequent bleeding (pretty sure at least some of my bleeders are probably shot).

Question about bleeding: if I just replace that one line, can I just open one or two rear bleeders to do the fill and wait method, or do all 4 need to be open? The brake in the line was about even with the rear door, but I have to remove the line at the proportioner, so will that allow air into the front lines?

Any recommendations on a good line wrench set are welcome too - I've used some crappy ones.

 

If it is just the rear line then yes you should only have to bleed the rear two. You can gravity bleed them if you have the time or you can do the prybar on the brake pedal trick. I got my flare wrenches from Advanced and they work fine.

 

Thanks all for the info. I ended up getting it done at my local - cost $140 - less than I would have spent on the kit & tools(though I fo miss out on having all the lines & some good line wrenches). Time and lack of good space to do the somewhat messy job were certainly a factor and I was pleasantly surprised at the cost - all the info I saw on cost seemed to be well north of $300.

Brakes seem to work fine - only drawback is my brake warning dummy light is on. Mechanic says this is normal for a while and it should go off, but it seems from what I've read if there was an imbalance in the pressure from bleeding one circuit, it won't go off until the imbalance is corrected the other way by bleeding the other circuit. Does anyone know if a 95 XJ (2WD) has a front and rear circuit, or is it divided some other way? I assume front and rear based on the lines coming from the proportioner, but wanted to verify. Also, after having the rear line replaced (and I'm assuming bleeding the rears), do I bleed the fronts to correct the imbalance? Any tips on this process? I replaced the calipers about 2 years ago, so hopefully the bleeders aren't too corroded.

 

Find another mechanic ASAP.

 

The light on mine was on after a drum to disc swap. Start the vehicle (may not be necessary but I did) press HARD on the brake peddle. Something about having to reset something. Worked for me.

 

Did this when I started it up yesterday and lo' and behold it worked! Or the mechanic was actually right and driving it around a bit equalized the imbalance. Or it just reset itself after sitting for a few days. Anyhow, the light is off and the brakes are working well. Thanks!