Hey guys, looking for some advice. I have a 96 cherokee with the 4l it has 210k on it and I'm running into some issues after doin the rear main this summer. Tried it once tore the seal. Got another seal and put it in. I think I may have put a ver very small knick in the crank. Now I loose a lot of oil every time its up to temp unless I us e rotella 15-40. My question is about the next step. With 210 on the clock I'm considering finding a lower milage engine and swapping it in. I'm on a budget so a reman isn't really an option. The other option is soucra a crank and new pistions and hope it fixes my issue. I think pistion rings are starting to go as I get a little blowby oil from valvecover. Just wanted some input on what you guys would do. I can probally score a 4.2 crank and do a mini stroker now but I'm concerned about the seat for the rear main. Would you guys start new with a whole motor or look into the new crank and pistions. This is my dd and I can get the internal engine work done cheaper then normal shops but I'm lost on what route will yeild more effictive now and long term. Anyone in this boat before let me know your results.

 

First things first, are you sure it's not leaking from above the rear main, dripping down and mimicking a rear main seal leak? Say from the valve cover or oil filter adapter?

 

As long as the crank is fine w/o nicks your leaking somewhere else. The mileage you just got that thing broke in as long as the mileage is still around 15-20+/- you shouldn't have any worries unless you know it's been driven hard. Lots of us around here have well over 200k all the way to 550k. If your looking to build a motor and yours is fine get one to build.

 

Its possible that your hard rear main wore a groove into the crank and now with the new seal its leaking even worse...unless you visually saw nothing.

 

Yes I've done all of the other seals as a check. I'm fairly confident its not the oil pan seal also as it dosent drip from the rear of the panits more from above that. I didn't see any visible wear or grove on the crank. However I am woundering if to much rtv or the very very small knick on the crank could be doing this. All was torqued back down to spec. It was definetly driven hard before me and by me so I just wanted some input on which would be better redoing the lower end or if lower miilage block would be easier. Id honestly like to keep the motor in and just do the lower end but if its more cost for machining etc then a new block would be easier.