Bored Techs at work = peanut gallery while i am wrenchin on the heep
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Palestine, TX
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So there was no work, at work, my day off, felt like being lazy so I go to work and borrow a lift, to install my stainless steel extended brake lines.
While it was in the air, had a couple of techs comment on somethings that I want clarification on.
(remember its completely off the ground and even though its a 3" lift, it looks like it has a 6-7" lift)
one mentioned that it looks like i have too much of an angle on the Pitman arm and the track bar and said that its putting too much strain on the joints and i need a dropped pitman arm and a modified track bar. I know that its in the air and its more extreme angles than if I was on the ground, but wont I have those kind of angles on the trails?
While it was in the air, had a couple of techs comment on somethings that I want clarification on.
(remember its completely off the ground and even though its a 3" lift, it looks like it has a 6-7" lift)
one mentioned that it looks like i have too much of an angle on the Pitman arm and the track bar and said that its putting too much strain on the joints and i need a dropped pitman arm and a modified track bar. I know that its in the air and its more extreme angles than if I was on the ground, but wont I have those kind of angles on the trails?
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CF Veteran

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,025
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From: Palestine, TX
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ahh, the previous owner did the swap with a zj for the main arm from the pitman to the tie rod, but i still gotta do the swap on the other one
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From: Strong Island, NY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The tie rod from a stock XJ or a 6 cyl ZJ is made from a rolled sheet metal tube and is very weak. The tie rod from a mid to late 90's ZJ with a V8 is a solid steel unit and is much stronger. The only down side to the ZJ V8 tie rod is that it has a slight downward bend that will reduce the ground clearance a little. If you want to reduce steering angles on your 3 inch lift use the pitman arm from a ZJ as well. It will give a 1 inch drop over the stock XJ piece, but is not needed with only a 3 inch lift.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Aldergrove,BC,Canada
Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L I6
im runnin 4.5" with stock pitman and '97-ZJ draglink+tierod.....cost me $35 at the JY and they had low miles on em which is why i grabbed both as the boots on mine were none existant
ive also got the ZJ pitman(at the same time) but with a 600ft/lbs impact and puller could not get it off my jeep but ive yet to have problems so ill just wait till i swap in a durango box to put on the new arm
and tell the techs to go do somethin else i remember at my old shop they would pick mine apart anytime i had it on the hoist and point out every little thing just to bug me...jerks
ive also got the ZJ pitman(at the same time) but with a 600ft/lbs impact and puller could not get it off my jeep but ive yet to have problems so ill just wait till i swap in a durango box to put on the new arm
and tell the techs to go do somethin else i remember at my old shop they would pick mine apart anytime i had it on the hoist and point out every little thing just to bug me...jerks
The tie rod from a stock XJ or a 6 cyl ZJ is made from a rolled sheet metal tube and is very weak. The tie rod from a mid to late 90's ZJ with a V8 is a solid steel unit and is much stronger. The only down side to the ZJ V8 tie rod is that it has a slight downward bend that will reduce the ground clearance a little. If you want to reduce steering angles on your 3 inch lift use the pitman arm from a ZJ as well. It will give a 1 inch drop over the stock XJ piece, but is not needed with only a 3 inch lift.



THANKS!